[oosel]

Is there a way to check the fluid level in the power centerstand unit? Preferably with it still on the bike. If not what is the easyest way to check it.

Lately with me and my wife both on the bike it wont lift it up all the way. But if im alone or if I stand up when were both on it. It will go up fine. So I figured I should check the fluid first. The motor sounds fine it dont bog or anything. It just gets to where it really starts to lift the bike and wont. It just keeps runing the sound of the motor never changes. It acts like one of my hydrolic floor jack if it gets low on fluid.

 

[southern_nj]

I am not too sure about the fluid level but if your center stand is not lifting you and your wife, you may want to consider checking your battery. What I have found is that if the battery is weak, the center stand will not work -- I am guessing that it draws a lot of amps and if the battery is marginal, the center stand won't work.

My suggestion is to check the battery -- I bought my mnew battery last fall from batteryshark.com -- for $50 or less, you can have a nice battery for your LT (you need to drill the terminal holes a little bigger to get your screws through them). See the link below for the battery that works for the LT.

http://www.batterysharks.com/Universal-Power-UB12180-D5745-p/ub12180_b12-18.htm

Glenn

 

[New2rt]

It's an amount rather then a level and it is listed on this site as well as the procedure.

You might consider deploying the stand with just you on the bike and standing, I'm pretty sure it's noted in the manual. you might be asking a lot of the stand when also lifting you and a passenger no matter the size. Lighten the load, extend the longevity.
Just a thought.

 

[johnbaker15]

Is there a way to check the fluid level in the power centerstand unit? Preferably with it still on the bike. If not what is the easyest way to check it.

The only way to check fluid is to take the centerstand off the bike, drain the fluid from the stand, measure the amount you get out and then refill with proper amount. All that information is detailed in a rebuild post, don't have the link at my finger tips but a search will find it.

Found it, look here; http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40287&highlight=hydraulic+centerstand

 

[oosel]

The only way to check fluid is to take the centerstand off the bike, drain the fluid from the stand, measure the amount you get out and then refill with proper amount. All that information is detailed in a rebuild post, don't have the link at my finger tips but a search will find it.

Found it, look here; http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40287&highlight=hydraulic+centerstand

Thank you thats what I was wondering.

 

[RockMonkey]

johnbaker15 beat me to it. No option other than to pull it off. And, even though it's got the grunt power to lift you, your passenger and a full load off the ground, it's still better to take off as much weight as possible, as it will help to prevent fluid loss from weapage around the seal.

 

[jzeiler]

125 to 150 ml ONLY. If it does not raise the bike two up you are low on fluid OR have a very weak motor. Either one will cause it. I popped a new motor in and it really didn't make that much of a difference just quiter. Found I only had 100 ml in it. Finally got 130 in the old girl and she purred like a kitten on steroids.

 

[bikerj]

125 to 150 ml ONLY. If it does not raise the bike two up you are low on fluid OR have a very weak motor. Either one will cause it. I popped a new motor in and it really didn't make that much of a difference just quiter. Found I only had 100 ml in it. Finally got 130 in the old girl and she purred like a kitten on steroids.

Due to the nature of "checking the fluid level/amt.", I'd say this is one of those fluids not intended to be checked regularly like the engine oil, brake fluid, coolant, etc. This is pretty much a sealed unit, for the sake of explanation. Like freon in HVAC systems or even the jack oil in a hydraulic jack- if it's low, then you have a leak, and the assembly needs repaired. As someone else mentioned, start troubleshooting the condition of your battery and motor first, unless you see obvious signs of leakage.

 

[jzeiler]

The usual failure mode is the shaft wiper seal deteriorates and that causes dirt to get to the shaft pressure seal which begins leaking (a tiny amount). You only need to loose about 10-30 ml over time to make it stop working.

 

[chestere]

I called my local BMW dealership and was told the center stand actuator is replaced not rebuilt. New unit price was $1109.00. This is BMWs decision not to rebuild actuators but it has been done. I just replaced seals in my leaking unit. Joe Gottberg wrote an excellent article about his rebuild, I followed it and so far so good. My LT is an 05, what done the wiper seal in was a freshly 'tar and chip' asphalt black top. Tar had built up on the exposed portion of the piston rod, hardened and eventually caused a leak. You will notice a small puddle of hydraulic fluid underneath the actuator and can spot the leak on unit visually without removing any parts.

 

[RockMonkey]

I called my local BMW dealership and was told the center stand actuator is replaced not rebuilt. New unit price was $1109.00. This is BMWs decision not to rebuild actuators but it has been done. I just replaced seals in my leaking unit. Joe Gottberg wrote an excellent article about his rebuild, I followed it and so far so good. My LT is an 05, what done the wiper seal in was a freshly 'tar and chip' asphalt black top. Tar had built up on the exposed portion of the piston rod, hardened and eventually caused a leak. You will notice a small puddle of hydraulic fluid underneath the actuator and can spot the leak on unit visually without removing any parts.

Good lord, replace only? :wtf:
I work in an oilfield shop. Unless the shaft is heavily scored or bent, it's really nothing to repack one of these things. Slight scarring or crap on the arm is not terribly difficult to deal with. And BMW wonders why they sometimes have a bad rep when it comes to service and maintenance . . .

 

[jzeiler]

I think it is just a matter of economics. It costs money to spare out parts and stock them and then there is the time spent. Much easier and profitable to replace the whole unit vs. repair. Strange since every thing is readily available including the motor (but not the pump, BMW limited the Italian mfg from selling except thier actuator manufacturer).

 

[deputy5211]

I think it is just a matter of economics. It costs money to spare out parts and stock them and then there is the time spent. Much easier and profitable to replace the whole unit vs. repair. Strange since every thing is readily available including the motor (but not the pump, BMW limited the Italian mfg from selling except thier actuator manufacturer).

John, do you have specs and/or alternate vendor part numbers for the motor and piston?

 

[cws]

John, do you have specs and/or alternate vendor part numbers for the motor and piston?

jumping in... starter motor from EMS Global - HS-50N $38 in the US.
cheers mate

 

[deputy5211]

Cheers Chris!

 

[jzeiler]

The piston itself and it's teflon seals are pretty robust and should not need replacing. Just the wiper and pressure seals on the shaft and the o-rings on the body. I guess it would be good to get some shafts made some time as they do corrode and wear if the wipre fails. I was supposed to get one from a guy that bent his (bad CS pivot bolts caused the newly re-build actuator to bend the shaft) but he never came though on the deal.

 

[shelbymustang1965]

I just bought a used assembly off Ebay, an it works fine,, so I decided to take mine apart ( i should have checked out some of the posts here first ) and it's a fairly straight forward operation.. NO help from the local BMW shop,,,no spec's or info on type and amount of fluid to replace.. I completely disassembled the unit,, cleaned it added some ATF and just unplugged the one on my bike and plugged the other one in and it now works... I will probably take the used one i bought back off and change the fluid out and pack the drive gear ( black plastic the size of a silver dollar ) with some moly grease ( as other's on this site have recommended ) and keep one as a spare..

 

[jzeiler]

Most of us have used hydrualic jack oil as it more closely resembles what was in there. BMW decided along time ago they would make it a throw away item so no dealers are equiped to help. Just make absolutley sure you don't put more than 150 ml of oil in there or you will crack the case or at least blow out he 0.030 case o-ring seal. Total capacity is 175ml but she will function best on 130 - 150 ml.

 

[bikerj]

I just bought a used assembly off Ebay, an it works fine,, so I decided to take mine apart ( i should have checked out some of the posts here first ) and it's a fairly straight forward operation.. NO help from the local BMW shop,,,no spec's or info on type and amount of fluid to replace.. I completely disassembled the unit,, cleaned it added some ATF and just unplugged the one on my bike and plugged the other one in and it now works... I will probably take the used one i bought back off and change the fluid out and pack the drive gear ( black plastic the size of a silver dollar ) with some moly grease ( as other's on this site have recommended ) and keep one as a spare..

How'd you manage that? Did you buy the whole thing or just the actuator? I've been regularly searching for a hydraulic center stand, but the ebay searches come up 0.

 

[johnbaker15]

How'd you manage that? Did you buy the whole thing or just the actuator? I've been regularly searching for a hydraulic center stand, but the ebay searches come up 0.

I see them all the time, well not all the time but often. Search BMW K1200Lt, select either highest price or newly listed, then you don't have to go through 1200 parts.