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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Guys,

My name is Jelle from Holland and I have a question about my 2004 bmw k 1200 lt center stand. The problem I have is that my center stand sometimes works but most of the time doesnt. When it works the green light on the dashboard when in neutral is turned on, just like normal. But sometimes the gear is in neutral but the green neutral light on the dashboard is of and than the center stand wouldn't work. I searched for hours on the internet, replaced the centerstand before but still have the problem. It is not a mechanical problem. I hope someone can help. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Jelle
 

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2005 K1200LT
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There is a controller under the rear seat - right side on the fender that monitors gear position, brakes, bike speed and side stand for safe operation of the center stand. Since you say the green "N" does not always show up, that makes the controller think the bike is in gear. That needs to be fixed.

The gear position sending unit is on the back of the transmission but it is not easy to get to. The connector for it is easy to get to and is located under the body panel known as the battery cover on the left side (just above the rear foot peg plate). It is a five pin connector (only 4 are used) with the following wire colors: Brown (pin 1), yellow/white (pin 2), yellow/black (pin 3) and yellow/blue (pin 4). If you are in neutral the switch should show continuity from pin 1 to each of the the other three. This condition tells the dash that you are in neutral and the dash generates the "N" as well as a I/K Bus signal to the center stand controller. So either the switch does not always connect the wires together or the dash does not read it correctly. I would suspect the switch is not always working correctly. You can test the dash by undoing the connector and shorting all the pins together and turn on the key. You should see the green "N". If you do then the switch is at fault. If not then the dash has a fault.
 
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
There is a controller under the rear seat - right side on the fender that monitors gear position, brakes, bike speed and side stand for safe operation of the center stand. Since you say the green "N" does not always show up, that makes the controller think the bike is in gear. That needs to be fixed.

The gear position sending unit is on the back of the transmission but it is not easy to get to. The connector for it is easy to get to and is located under the body panel known as the battery cover on the left side (just above the rear foot peg plate). It is a five pin connector (only 4 are used) with the following wire colors: Brown (pin 1), yellow/white (pin 2), yellow/black (pin 3) and yellow/blue (pin 4). If you are in neutral the switch should show continuity from pin 1 to each of the the other three. This condition tells the dash that you are in neutral and the dash generates the "N" as well as a I/K Bus signal to the center stand controller. So either the switch does not always connect the wires together or the dash does not read it correctly. I would suspect the switch is not always working correctly. You can test the dash by undoing the connector and shorting all the pins together and turn on the key. You should see the green "N". If you do then the switch is at fault. If not then the dash has a fault.
Hi jzeiler,

At the moment I am trying to figure out what the problem is. I found the connector and disconnected it. Looks clean. I tried to to test the dash and connected al the pins togheter but nothing happens. What I forgot to say last time is that the gear indicator is not working properly as well and rear gear is not working. (It’s my fathers bike, so I didn’t knew).

When I take a look at the connector I see 5 wires, instead of 4 is that a problem. 1 to 4 are the colors that you wrote, but in number 5 there is a gray cable. Is this I problem? I am thinking about replacing the connector cable to the gear position unit. But that has nothing to do with the dash. What do you think? I hope you can help me once more and figure out what the problem could be. Thanks in advance!
Jelle
 

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On the switch side there will be 5 wires, but the 5th one (grey) is not used by the LT. This cable does provide the signals to the dash. If you have it unplugged and you twist a small piece of wire so that it shorts all 4 pins together on the bike side connector (the side that does not have the grey wire) and turn on the key you should see a zero in gear position and the green "N" should be illuminated if the dash is working properly. If that is what you get then the switch is the problem.

I looked up the switch and the switch side has the pins and the bikes side of the harness has the receptacles. So to test the dash you need to insert pins or sewing needles into the receptacles and then short the four together. That should give you the "0" and "N" on the dash. Sorry about the confusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi Jzeiler,

Thanks for the advice! I just tried to connect the pins togheter in the receptacles and it showed the 0 and N on the dash. So the dash is working properly I guess. I did have to insert 5 pins in the numbers 1 to 5 to make it work. With 4 pins there was only the gear position to see, with 5 pins gearposition and the green N.

So like you said earlier can I assume that the fault is in the cable from the gear connection sending unit to the connector? If so, I would like to give it a try to replace it for a new one. I am not a mechanic but i think i am capabel of getting the job done. Can you tell me something about how difficult it is? Once more thanks for the help!
 

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It is interesting that you had to do all five pins since there are only 4 wires on the bike side of the connector.

OK this one is not too bad since you do not have to remove the swing arm. You do have to remove both driver foot plates to get access to the transverse frame tube. You have found the connector already so I assume you have pulled the small body cover over it. On the left side you need to remove the shift linkage cross over from the transverse tube. On the right side you will have to remove the drag link (arrow in picture 3) for the rear drive from the transverse tube.

Then remove three bolts on each side of the transverse tube and you will now have access to the switch.

Torque values are as follows:
Transverse tube bolts 41 Nm
Shift linage bolt 9 Nm
Drag link to transverse tube 43 Nm
Foot Plate bolts 21 Nm
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
It is interesting that you had to do all five pins since there are only 4 wires on the bike side of the connector.

OK this one is not too bad since you do not have to remove the swing arm. You do have to remove both driver foot plates to get access to the transverse frame tube. You have found the connector already so I assume you have pulled the small body cover over it. On the left side you need to remove the shift linkage cross over from the transverse tube. On the right side you will have to remove the drag link (arrow in picture 3) for the rear drive from the transverse tube.

Then remove three bolts on each side of the transverse tube and you will now have access to the switch.

Torque values are as follows:
Transverse tube bolts 41 Nm
Shift linage bolt 9 Nm
Drag link to transverse tube 43 Nm
Foot Plate bolts 21 Nm

Hi Jzeiler,

At the moment i am trying to replace the gear indicator just like you told me. Everything went fine until I had to take out the old sensor. Did it but now something is leaking next to the pin of the sensor. There is a cable next to the sensor which might be leaking a bit. Doesn’t smell and look like oil, I think it’s cooling liquid but don’t know for sure. Tried to follow it but can’t follow it further than above the cylinder on the left side. Can’t see any damages on the cable. I will add some picutres maybe you can help me with the solution.

Thanks in advance
 

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That would be DOT 4 brake fluid in the clutch slave cylinder hose. That you will have to remove the swing arm to fix. Sorry. It could be a rusted through banjo end on the hose or it could be you moved the hose and loosened up the banjo bolt. They have aluminum crush washers on them.

To see what is involved look at this post at the top of this page. "Sticky: Weep Hole Drilling Video (Multi-page thread 1 2)"
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That would be DOT 4 brake fluid in the clutch slave cylinder hose. That you will have to remove the swing arm to fix. Sorry. It could be a rusted through banjo end on the hose or it could be you moved the hose and loosened up the banjo bolt. They have aluminum crush washers on them.

To see what is involved look at this post at the top of this page. "Sticky: Weep Hole Drilling Video (Multi-page thread 1 2)"
Thanks for the quick response! I will try to fix it tomorrow. Do I have to replace the whole hose , can I fix just the banjo bolt or tighten it up again? I hope it will work. Thanks!!
 

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Hopefully it is just loose, but if not the rear half of the hose it $152 US. Ouch.
 
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Hopefully it is just loose, but if not the rear half of the hose it $152 US. Ouch.
Thanks jzeiler for your help! Fixed the gear sensor with a new one, works perfect. I was able to tighten the screw wit an improvised device from outside the bike( see picture) without removing the swing arm. Not leaking anymore. So now I can cruise again. Thanks again!
 

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That is great news that the thing was just loose. Glad you are back on the road again.
 

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Hi Jzeiler,

Thanks for the advice! I just tried to connect the pins together in the receptacles and it showed the 0 and N on the dash. So the dash is working properly I guess. I did have to insert 5 pins in the numbers 1 to 5 to make it work. With 4 pins there was only the gear position to see, with 5 pins gear position and the green N.
I read this again and went back and looked at the diagram. The 5th wire IS used by the LT for the N. It did not show on the dash diagram because the N light is driven by the reverser controller. The reverser controller gets the 5th wire signal as an interlock for neutral. So even though there is a mechanical interlock in the transmission for reverse, the Controller also gets an electrical signal for neutral. The LT is notorious for having many signals go places you don't expect
 
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