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Good evening everyone,

I’m thinking about making the electrical connections for a cell phone charger at the left turn signal. The previous owner modified the turn signals to include running lights and that circuit is a switched circuit, which I want. I’ll hide the charger with the USB connection up under the outer instrument cover out of the weather. The cord to the phone will be run out by the cockpit light and up to the phone on the shelf. The charger will be a MOTOPOWER MP0609A 3.1Amp Motorcycle USB Charger Kit. It’s output is 5 volts and 3.1 amps.

Anyone see any problems with this setup? Is the current draw of the charger and the running lights (and the turn signals when they are on) too much for the 4 amp fuse on that circuit? Any better place to make the charger’s electrical connections?

Thanks,
Ken
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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+1 on that suggestion. Only you have to remove the light to get to the screw to remove the dash and with the light out there is enough room to tap into the wiring. Your charger will only draw about 1 amp from the bike.
 

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Agreed and that is how I used mine for some time. However the cable and power supply were rattling about in there. I wanted a fixed socket on the dash, so decided to go 'further south' to make a more attractive installation. My cable emerges from the bottom of the windscreen mechanism slot and is kept neat by using a strip of double sided foam tape as it emerges. The USB socket is fixed the same way.
 

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I'm a fan of the Juiced Squeeze. It's built for dirt bikes so it's rock solid and is a 10w wireless charger so I can run GPS, music, and whatever I want all day without losing charge. It's not cheap, but I've used earlier versions of this mount on my GS and other bikes and it's by far the best I've seen. I ran mine through a fuzeblock, but any switched 3 amp supply should do it.

https://shop-hondogarage.com/products/juiced-squeeze-wireless-charging-phone-mount
 

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My Solutions was as follows: took a good size wire from battery via fuse to a gloveboxmounted switch. That switch is now behind the locked lid. Then I ran wires from there to Ram-mount on my "tank" and other one on left side of "the stingray". There I mounted 2*2,1amp usbsocket, marinetype. and waterproof. Now my tomtom has constant power on the mount and Wi-Fi via cellphone . Also phone is always easy to get charged.
 

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Good evening everyone,

I’m thinking about making the electrical connections for a cell phone charger at the left turn signal. The previous owner modified the turn signals to include running lights and that circuit is a switched circuit, which I want. I’ll hide the charger with the USB connection up under the outer instrument cover out of the weather. The cord to the phone will be run out by the cockpit light and up to the phone on the shelf. The charger will be a MOTOPOWER MP0609A 3.1Amp Motorcycle USB Charger Kit. It’s output is 5 volts and 3.1 amps.

Anyone see any problems with this setup? Is the current draw of the charger and the running lights (and the turn signals when they are on) too much for the 4 amp fuse on that circuit? Any better place to make the charger’s electrical connections?

Thanks,
Ken
This only draws 1.3 A from the bike so almost anywhere should do. Having said that, I always prefer to run accessories directly from the battery (well, directly from my Fuzeblock). Two reasons: 1. It keeps the bike’s wiring harness stock which means less likelihood of a future issue with a corroded wire splice, 2. It makes like much easier for the next owner who doesn’t have to try to figure out the non-stock wiring.

If you are using your phone for navigation, the having a dedicated USB port is useful. If you only need to occasionally top off your phone during a long day, then the Powerlet USB adapters work quite well. Obviously, these consume a Powerlet port so that could be a problem is you also use heated clothing.
 

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IBR# 366
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IBR# 366
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Lifeproof case with a lanyard?

Nice...
 

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Lifeproof case with a lanyard?

Nice...
Lifeproof maybe, waterproof, certainly not if you have anything plugged in to it as I found to my cost. I have now changed to a different and more bulky case which IS waterproof.
 

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That looks similar to the upcoming RAM Tough-Charge X-Grip mounts.

I'm interested in the RAM Quick-Grip series, as I think that would provide more of a cradle to keep the phone centered over the charging puck.

With wireless charging and Bluetooth, it'll be nice to just drop the phone in place and not have to plug anything in at all.
The RAM product appears to still be using spring tension to hold the phone. No thanks. The Juicer uses positive pressure from a screw and has a ball detent mechanism so it won't ever loosen. Night and day difference. Also, the posts on the juicer are adjustable so you can change the location around buttons and such to get a solid mount of your phone every time. I use this offroad so I know how well it holds the phone. No tether needed.
 

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Can you advise what charger you have, where you picked up the USB connector and what do you mean by "further south" exactly?
I see you use a magnetic mount. What have you affixed to upper shroud? Thanks
 

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Scimitar
Can you advise what charger you have?
It is a single port charger typical of Chinese suppliers. I fixed it down with 'badge' tape, without their supplied clip.

where you picked up the USB connector?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F392476654061

and what do you mean by "further south" exactly?

Further south from the windscreen! If you remove the dash top, you can easily get to the cable that supplies the courtesy light, so a quality splice can be made there which is also out of the weather.

I see you use a magnetic mount. What have you affixed to upper shroud? Thanks
Just the magnets via their original sticky pads. The magnets do come in different strengths, I bought some polished ones rather than rubber coated originally and they were useless.
 

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In case it helps:
I installed one of these. There are many spots where you can drill a 30mm hole in the tupperware using one of these.
You can tap the wires of one of the 12V DIN connectors (front or rear left), they're key switched, and you can use these to tap the wires and use these for the female part of the blade connector in case you want a nice wire harness.
Before installing, I used one of these.
And you get a pretty accurate reading of your battery voltage both while engine is off and running (alternator charge voltage).
 

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)and you can use these to tap the wires and use these for the female part
Nooooooooo! The most dreadful method ever invented and will cause nothing but grief a few months down the line. Honestly, I would rather see twisted wires and insulation tape than those abominations!

Connections should be soldered lightly and covered ideally with heatshrink. Otherwise self amalgamating tape will give a waterproof and reasonably stiff connection. If you are reluctant to cut a wire, a half way house is to use a razor to remove half an inch of insulation, then wrap the splice around it tightly. Solder it and then bind it with self amalgamating tape keeping the splice parallel to the parent for an inch or two. I like to then wrap with "fluffy" loom tape.

PLEASE don't even transport those Scotchloks, let alone use them!
 

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Nooooooooo! ...

PLEASE don't even transport those Scotchloks, let alone use them!
Yes, there's some truth in this. Any extra connection point is a failure point, no matter what connection or connector type is used. Soldering can be done badly, vibrations can damage it (solder becomes breakable as it ages), connectors oxidate or become loose, and so on.
Yet some wires in certain harness parts are so tight, soldering around those can be very tough for beginners. Yet I've been using such splices building/modifying industrial controls and they were time tested. Nevertheless, anyone doing this kind of work should know what is being done. Recommended for experienced people, not for novices.
 
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