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Discussion Starter #1
I just put on a new Cee Bailey's windscreen....their standard height screen #2. This screen physically measures the very same as the OEM screen on the LT. Something happens when you actually get it on. It's TALLER than the OEM....so much so that it's difficult to see over it. I'm 6' - 1" and I need for my screen to be about 2" shorter.

So, if you order one, take that into consideration. If you like one like mine, it can be had with a little discount. BTW...it's grey tint.

Ron
 

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It's taller because the profile is different ... hence the version #2 that you ordered which has a laminar lip built into it's profile. The top few inches turn upward which adds height to it. Nothing that hasn't been hashed over in this forum about 4,000 times.

The real lesson here is to do your research using the search feature of this forum before buying anything, or installing anything.
 

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Its a simple job to cut it down 2 inches, I've done a couple of windshields now, use a fine tooth bandsaw blade or fine tooth jig saw blade. Protect the windshield with masking tape while cutting and lay a towel on the cutting table to add further protection. Hand sand with wet sandpaper #200, takes about an hour of sanding to get a nicely polished edge.

Its easy as long as you take your time and plan ahead, Cee Baileys will also give advise if you email them, thats how I learned.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Joe,
Thank you for the much deserved "kick in the teeth"! How utterly stupid of me not reading more of the previous posts than I did. I sure learned my lesson. Thanks for weighing in on with that info.


Ron,
Thanks for your constructive advice. I'm wondering if by cutting down the screen, it might take off too much of the laminar curve and become less effective. What was your result? Did you have the laminar lip on yours?

Ron
 

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I've seen the one Ron cut down, it is on a friend's bike, and he didn't take 2" off of it. By cutting 2' off you'd loose the flip that you want to move the air over your head. Call CeeBailey's back and tell them that the windshield you purchased is too tall and you'd like a #2 -2 instead of the #2 standard and the reason is you can't see over it. They've done swaps in the past, but you'll probably have to pay shipping both ways. JM2CW.
 

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Ron,

Yes i have the laminar lip on my windscreen and was worried about losing the benefit it provides, which is why I contacted Cee Baileys for advice, they were correct in advising me that it would make no difference in performance. I had a windscreen that I had to look over when I purchased the bike and it drove me nuts.
This summer the bike fell over and whacked a guardrail on the way down taking out a corner from the top, I reshaped the windshield to be narrower and you really can't tell from original...I have since bought a new -2" C Baileys because I do appreciate the full protection.

I traced the top profile with grease pencil to the new desired location and then used a 15 teeth per inch bandsaw. A towel taped to the bandsaw table protected the shield and I applied masking tape close to the line for additional protection. I imagine a jigsaw would also do the job, the fine blade is the key. Looks a bit rough when done but you'd be surprised how quickly 200 wet sandpaper polishes it down to a smooth edge.

It really is a simple job once you get over the fear of cutting into a perfectly good windshield. Cee Baileys is great for advice and are quick to respond to emails, Good luck.

Ron

Ron
 

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Steve, you must be thinking of another Ron, I'm in Canada and I don't think we've met. I recommend contacting C Baileys first before surgery, they will give good advice that can be trusted. I took about 1.5 " off mine and noticed no difference.

Ron
 

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I cut my stock LT shield down in the middle portion to give better visibility; like my friends RT shield. Like it a lot better and swear that the wind flow is lessened in the shoulder areas. I'm 6'2" and ride with seat in high position (05 LT).

A BIG CAUTION; the stock windshield is coated and no amount of polishing will reduce the cloudy look if you try to polish more than the cut edge. I had a long talk at the Oshkosh airshow with an expert on polishing systems for headlights, factory paint, etc. He sells to OEM such as BMW and Mercedes. His kit is great on acrylics (aircraft, Cee Bailey, etc.) but only fair on the Beemer. Another gotcha from BMW.
Love the cars and bikes but the corporate bunch can be difficult.

Not riding today. 12-24 inches of wet snow in this half of Montana.

Take care,

Bruce :(
 

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I run the #2 -6" ! It was made that height from them. I have a clear and a Blue Ice.

I am 5' 11" and 30" inseam.

In the full up position, 4' level off it toward the rider, tape to the console buttons, it is 19 1/2".

I can see fully over it in the down position, raise it 2" still see over it and send the air over my helmet, or full up and it covers me fully. Only in debris/rain do I run it full up.

I have to say the passenger suffers though. I don't do 2 up much so not much of a concern to me. I just explain to them, hand them a full face and we go. I will raise it to full for them, but it drives me nuts.

I have a clear I cracked. It is a run out off the lower bolt hole. I was thinking about making it available to members if they want to try it.

My experience is I tried a -4 and could not see over it and it hit dead in my sight line full down. They reformed/re cut it for me to -6, and as I said, I own two. I had mine made that way. If you try to cut one, it must be from the bottom. Or you loose the lip effect that allows you to be "out" of the wind, and still see over it.

My 07 came with the factory tall. The first time I put it up I thought it was never going to stop. I had a Maxwell Smart Cone of Silence flashback. Man was it tallllll and shut you off from the sensation of riding in the wind.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
OK...Job complete!!!
I'm leaving for Daytona Tues so I had to do it myself. "impossible Ron" gave great advice. I used a fine tooth blade in my jig saw. Covered the screen with green painters tape and bubble wrap. After cutting the profile I wanted from the top of the screen, I used 120 grit sanding block then 220 paper. At this point, all saw marks were out and that's when I changed to 400 wet. I bet I didn't spend more than 6 or 7 minutes sanding and polishing. Looks like a factory job.

Took it for a spin and it was perfect.

Thanks again for your help!

Ron
 

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If the sanded edge has a hazy look take a small gas torch and run the flame over the edge--it will gloss over and look like it did when it came from the factory.
I'm 6'6" and ordered the +2 +4 and had to cut about 3 inches off.
 

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good to here it worked out...nothing like the satisfaction of a home grown solution.

Ron
 
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