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Can the clutch on a wethead be adjusted if it isn't fully disengaging?

734 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  NoelCP
2016, 51,450mi, clutch lever adjusted for maximum travel. Seems like lately it's a little resistant to downshifting w/o a slight clunk. It's subtle, but seems different now so wondering if it can be adjusted, or if perhaps its hydraulics might have some contaminant in it that might prevent full disengaging.

Cheers
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It could be the slave cylinder or master cylinder beginning to fail, or in the case I worked on yesterday, the clutch pack failing. The bike I worked on yesterday is a 2015 GSA with 77K miles on it.

You may want to try bleeding the slave cylinder to see if that helps. If it does, air has made it into the system somewhere and you'll need to figure out where or the problem will come back.

If the clutch pack is worn out you'll need to replace some or all of the parts depending on what you find.
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If the clutch pack is worn out you'll need to replace some or all of the parts depending on what you find.
Wouldn't this lead to slippage, not failure to disengage? Thanks
Based on the information provided, it's possible that there may be an issue with the clutch system of your vehicle. The resistance and clunking sensation during downshifting could indicate a need for adjustment or potential hydraulic issues.
Heck, what that response AI generated?! All you did was restate the OP's problem.

Lol, I've NEVER attacked a new poster for their first post, but this one was pretty obvious. Are we getting ready to sell our almost new 2022 RT for the unbelievable price of about $10K, here on BMWLT.COM? 🙄

Oh, and um ... welcome to the forum. Don't mind some of us more crotchety old types in here ....
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Interesting 🤔
‘My ‘16 RT does the exact same thing if I let my oil exceed 3500 miles between changes, sounds odd, and I agree! I’m at 24300 miles and having the dealer perform their 12k service @10k and 20k. I do my own changes in between with BMW oil or Liquid Moly oil.
This thing still gets a bit grabby with the clutch and extra clunky with the box, until she gets her fresh juice then all is right in the world 😂 till 3000-3500 miles. It’s been this way since new.

‘I guess you could say it’s because of the exacting tolerances in the gearbox, just like my Rolex 😆 not. I gave up worrying bout it years ago, as I always keep fresh oil and filter in the garage.

I decrease the free play in my clutch handle also, till my oil gets changed, weird for sure.

Just a thought
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‘My ‘16 RT does the exact same thing if I let my oil exceed 3500 miles between changes, sounds odd, and I agree!
I think you might be on to something...for me too that is! The bike sat much longer during the winter than in past winters, has about 2800m on the last oil change done w/ Castrol, and I typically change oil around 4K miles. I have a new jug of LiquiMoly on hand (which I think did make shifting better than Castrol) so will change oil and see how it works. I did do a test of starting the bike up while on the center stand w/ it in 1st gear figuring I'd see the rear wheel move some if the clutch wasn't disengaging fully and no problem it didn't budge, so maybe it's something new oil will improve, and I'm thinking it will! Thanks!
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Well, clutch plates can be known to stick if a bike hasn't been ridden in a while. Of course, that experience base was with a dry clutch, but I expect a wet clutch to react the same way, maybe even more so, since the engine oil lubricates the hydrollic clutch as well. Change the oil, go ride 'er like ya stole it for a while, and maybe see if if it loosens up a bit. 😏
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I changed oil and it's slightly better (read: placebo works every time!), but I've changed how I shift slightly too. In any case it's fine now and I do think LiquiMoly is easier on shifting. The castrol is a little more harsh feeling.
  • Haha
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