[Ricky Chuck]

1) disable alarm system - rear trunk removed, going over John's instructions before embarking on task tomorrow.
2) voltmeter: drill hole, mount meter, PIAA system already tapped to parking light power wire, added power wire to it. DONE!
3) Fuzeblock: Run all wires to front and back for future use - DONE!
3.5) add a power block wire feed for leds to number six Fuzeblock wire. Will allow up to 8 led light sets in back.
4) wire in power for Garmin and final GXM puck install - almost done.
4) bleed inside rear bleeder port - thinking about it!
5) one final bleed of R1: this weekend.
6) new gas filter and lines: this weekend.
7) possible new external gas lines: hmmm, possibly this weekend, still thinking about difficulty
8) possible FD ship to saddleman. Going to ride it some more and see if the FD gets any hotter than what Saddleman suggested as a telltale.
9) change out hoses and coolant when hoses do arrive!

 

[beech]

Ignition wires from Euromotoelectric:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1783.htm
Rebuild rear caliper with new pin kit, very susceptible to corrosion and lock up. Super clean with isopropyl alcohol puck sides. Get the 100% stuff not drugstore 70%: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778YHHS...m/images/I/51RQBhrlRPL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B0778YHHSC
Use this to clean front pucks too. Air dry before pushing back in. Should be done once a year.
Check the correct torque for the rear swing arm main pivot bearing. One side is a base point the other side is about 7 Nm.
Go big and drop final drive (you are sending it to be rebuilt) and neversieze both end splines.
75k miles + change front wheel bearings

 

[Ricky Chuck]

Ignition wires from Euromotoelectric:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1783.htm
Rebuild rear caliper with new pin kit, very susceptible to corrosion and lock up. Super clean with isopropyl alcohol puck sides. Get the 100% stuff not drugstore 70%: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778YHHS...m/images/I/51RQBhrlRPL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B0778YHHSC
Use this to clean front pucks too. Air dry before pushing back in. Should be done once a year.
Check the correct torque for the rear swing arm main pivot bearing. One side is a base point the other side is about 7 Nm.
Go big and drop final drive (you are sending it to be rebuilt) and neversieze both end splines.
75k miles + change front wheel bearings

Those are good things . At 28K I am still trying to determine which things are hurt by time and which can be determined by miles. I mean TIME hurts everything...over time, cough .

 

[saddleman]

Ignition wires from Euromotoelectric:
https://www.euromotoelectrics.com/category-s/1783.htm
Rebuild rear caliper with new pin kit, very susceptible to corrosion and lock up. Super clean with isopropyl alcohol puck sides. Get the 100% stuff not drugstore 70%: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778YHHS...m/images/I/51RQBhrlRPL.jpg&sb-ci-a=B0778YHHSC
Use this to clean front pucks too. Air dry before pushing back in. Should be done once a year.
Check the correct torque for the rear swing arm main pivot bearing. One side is a base point the other side is about 7 Nm.
Go big and drop final drive (you are sending it to be rebuilt) and neversieze both end splines.
75k miles + change front wheel bearings

Most of this wouldn't apply to a LT. RT maybe ?.

 

[davebullock]

Where did you mount the voltmeter?

Which model did you use?

 

[beech]

Most of this wouldn't apply to a LT. RT maybe ?.

Ah... wrote it for an LT K bike.

 

[jzeiler]

Ah... wrote it for an LT K bike.

OK Beech but there are no pins in the LT rear caliper, it is hard mounted to the rear drive.

But I have fixed many on the GS and RT with the floating pin rear calipers.

 

[Voyager]

1) disable alarm system - rear trunk removed, going over John's instructions before embarking on task tomorrow.
2) voltmeter: drill hole, mount meter, PIAA system already tapped to parking light power wire, added power wire to it. DONE!
3) Fuzeblock: Run all wires to front and back for future use - DONE!
3.5) add a power block wire feed for leds to number six Fuzeblock wire. Will allow up to 8 led light sets in back.
4) wire in power for Garmin and final GXM puck install - almost done.
4) bleed inside rear bleeder port - thinking about it!
5) one final bleed of R1: this weekend.
6) new gas filter and lines: this weekend.
7) possible new external gas lines: hmmm, possibly this weekend, still thinking about difficulty
8) possible FD ship to saddleman. Going to ride it some more and see if the FD gets any hotter than what Saddleman suggested as a telltale.
9) change out hoses and coolant when hoses do arrive!

Did you end up ordering the ebay silicone hose kit? I can’t remember all of the threads now, but I was thinking you did. Did they arrive? Did they come with new clamps or are you going to use the old ones? Maybe Gordon will chime in as to what he did.

What did you decide in regards to the external fuel hoses? I am nearly done stripping my LT down for the winter maintenance and was going to pass on the coolant and external fuel hoses, but now that I have things nearly exposed (got to get the airbox off yet and those clamps are always a fun time) I have decided to do the full monty since my LT will be 12 years old when I head to Alaska next summer. And thinking about standing beside a flaming LT in the middle of nowhere Canada does not sound like a good time. :grin:

I will probably go with the ebay coolant hoses, but I think I will go with OEM fuel lines given those tight bends. And the originals have lasted well so I figure I will go with custom fit.

 

[davebullock]

I did all the external fuel lines and in the tank with what I got at the local auto parts store. The bends internally have been on now for 60K miles, and fine. The other external ones with the same stuff, and they have been ok for the past four years.

Since I had so much hassle figuring out my coolant leak, and ended up with a new radiator, I put on some OEM hoses-killed me and the budget, but wanted to not have anything go wrong like last year with some overheating in the mountains.

I loved your 'don't want to be standing on the side of the road next to a flaming bike in the middle of no where!' I figure with 200K on mine, if that happens, I'll take the license plate off, and head home-scanning the ads for the next bike on the way. Ride safely.

 

[Voyager]

I did all the external fuel lines and in the tank with what I got at the local auto parts store. The bends internally have been on now for 60K miles, and fine. The other external ones with the same stuff, and they have been ok for the past four years.

Since I had so much hassle figuring out my coolant leak, and ended up with a new radiator, I put on some OEM hoses-killed me and the budget, but wanted to not have anything go wrong like last year with some overheating in the mountains.

I loved your 'don't want to be standing on the side of the road next to a flaming bike in the middle of no where!' I figure with 200K on mine, if that happens, I'll take the license plate off, and head home-scanning the ads for the next bike on the way. Ride safely.

Did you put springs in the hoses to keep them from kinking or did they bend that tight without collapsing?

 

[davebullock]

Did you put springs in the hoses to keep them from kinking or did they bend that tight without collapsing?

No springs-they worked out just fine. I've no problems at all. I changed filter along with EVERYTHING else this fall, and the hoses looked good-so closed it up.

 

[Voyager]

No springs-they worked out just fine. I've no problems at all. I changed filter along with EVERYTHING else this fall, and the hoses looked good-so closed it up.

What brand of fuel hose? Do you recall the size? I am assuming probably metric.

 

[davebullock]

What brand of fuel hose? Do you recall the size? I am assuming probably metric.

multi fuel and bi compatible carb Q-09-019A 4219BF EPA compliant 15 grams m2/day
EGTSPLINEEBF1

Those are the best I can read off the fuel hose that I used. There is no diameter on the hose that I can find. I still have about 2' that I keep in the bike for emergency-although I am not looking forward to needing it!

Wish I could do better. I remember getting the fuel hose that could be used submersed. I think it was high pressure.

 

[Ricky Chuck]

Did you end up ordering the ebay silicone hose kit? I can’t remember all of the threads now, but I was thinking you did. Did they arrive? Did they come with new clamps or are you going to use the old ones? Maybe Gordon will chime in as to what he did.

What did you decide in regards to the external fuel hoses? I am nearly done stripping my LT down for the winter maintenance and was going to pass on the coolant and external fuel hoses, but now that I have things nearly exposed (got to get the airbox off yet and those clamps are always a fun time) I have decided to do the full monty since my LT will be 12 years old when I head to Alaska next summer. And thinking about standing beside a flaming LT in the middle of nowhere Canada does not sound like a good time. :grin:

I will probably go with the ebay coolant hoses, but I think I will go with OEM fuel lines given those tight bends. And the originals have lasted well so I figure I will go with custom fit.

Sorry, buddy, missed this...but the hoses came in today! They ARE pretty blue, lol, but I can live with it . Are these the correct number of hoses? I haven't started yet but I thought I recalled someone had a little issue getting a stub or a short piece of hose on because of the motor mount, maybe it is part of one of these hoses, too sleepy to look it up tonight. Haven't yet seen what the clamps look like, I generally try to get new ones for good measure.

With regard to the external fuel hoses that price is annoying and I haven't yet decided what to do. If the hose would bend without kinking I would go with off the shelf. I will review what others have said. The hoses got here a bit quicker than the max range timeline, at least. I don't want to go back in either so am crossing my fingers and leaving the plugs alone for now, etc. I do need to put the new throttle cables on and it looks like a doozy of a job with the filter housing in place not to mention the coolant fan housing. Whew, gonna need a lot of eggnog this weekend .

 

[davebullock]

the smaller diameter hose can be put on without removing the mount-I just did it. Although it would be easier I suppose. Those are the right number of hoses. I took off mine one at a time/replaced the same hose with the new one. I had my radiators off, so was trying to keep things in order. With your radiators in place, your work is simple. Enjoy-having new hoses should give us a degree of comfort not worrying about 18 year old hoses with 200K miles!

 

[Voyager]

the smaller diameter hose can be put on without removing the mount-I just did it. Although it would be easier I suppose. Those are the right number of hoses. I took off mine one at a time/replaced the same hose with the new one. I had my radiators off, so was trying to keep things in order. With your radiators in place, your work is simple. Enjoy-having new hoses should give us a degree of comfort not worrying about 18 year old hoses with 200K miles!

I ordered mine yesterday. I found a place that had gray hoses which would look good with my Gray LT, but that seller showed as no longer having them when I checked yesterday. So, I went with the seller that had blue offered, but he had a note to leave a comment if you wanted another color and he showed a palette wth many colors, but gray was not one of them. So, I placed the order including a comment that I would prefer gray if available, but will accept blue. So, I expect I will get blue!

I am still debating on the fuel hose. Need to pull one off to measure the size. I was thinking the Jiff-Tites I bought we 1/4”, but I just don’t remember as that was a decade ago. I think the quarter inch fuel hose still shows a minimum bend radius of something like 2.5” which is pretty tight for the LT. I am less worried about the hose than I am the fuel rail. I think it is plastic and putting a lot of strain on the fuel hose nipples may not be a good thing. Do you recall if you had to use much force to install your fuel hose?

 

[davebullock]

It was not an issue for me. My son has an 99LT, and we often work on the bikes side by side doing these kind of things-great bonding time, and he's smarter than I am

I wish I had taken pictures two weeks ago while it was all open to show you my new lines (now 4 years old) on the fuel rail. Not an issue for bending at all. I'm sure I took the original line to NAPA and matched it with what they had.

You're wise, doing all sorts of stuff while it is open. I just finished a lot of work, hoping to get a few more rides in this year, but the weather, (and now lots of salt has already been dumped) has made that not a good idea.

Dave

 

[Voyager]

multi fuel and bi compatible carb Q-09-019A 4219BF EPA compliant 15 grams m2/day
EGTSPLINEEBF1

Those are the best I can read off the fuel hose that I used. There is no diameter on the hose that I can find. I still have about 2' that I keep in the bike for emergency-although I am not looking forward to needing it!

Wish I could do better. I remember getting the fuel hose that could be used submersed. I think it was high pressure.

It appears you have the Gates Barricade hose which I believe is pretty good stuff. I have always had good luck with Gates products in the past. The only concern is the 2.56” MBR. I believe the rear hose coming off the fuel rail is a tighter bend that than with the stock hose, but maybe it can be left a little larger and not hit the side fairing. I will have to take a closer look. Did you tie wrap your hose or just install it and let it find its own radius? I don’t want to impart too much bending stress on the fuel rail nipple and risk it breaking at some point down the road.

https://www.gates.com/us/en/fluid-p...l-injection-fuel-hose-225/p/p100014/v/1111087

 

[davebullock]

I don't remember it being too tight. But honestly it was a few years ago. I'm sure we would have been concerned if we saw a sharp bend that looked like it would kink. Sorry, I wish I had a photo for you. But I had the whole thing torn down twice figuring out this radiator/leak/overheating issue.
Dave 262-893-6006

 

[sailor]

...
.....

I am still debating on the fuel hose. Need to pull one off to measure the size. I was thinking the Jiff-Tites I bought we 1/4”, but I just don’t remember as that was a decade ago. I think the quarter inch fuel hose still shows a minimum bend radius of something like 2.5” which is pretty tight for the LT. I am less worried about the hose than I am the fuel rail. I think it is plastic and putting a lot of strain on the fuel hose nipples may not be a good thing. Do you recall if you had to use much force to install your fuel hose?

By the way, all the fuel "delivery / return" hoses (inside or outside the tank) are 5/16 on a K1200RS/LT. Only exception(s) are the small 2 vent hoses that are inside tank on the K1200RS - these are submersed into fuel but are much small diameter (these go from fuel cap assy to lower pump flange).

Closest metric size (to 5/16) that will match perfectly is 8 mm inside diameter hoses.