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Discussion Starter #1
I closed the mirror/manual cover under the topcase and the manual wasn't in all the way and it snapped the little hinges right in two. What a bummer. Anyone else ever do this. I hate to think of how much those things are :(
 

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Tried black electrical tape.... switched to duck tape. ;)
 

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Maybe I should get rid of that duck tape, nice repair. :bowdown:
 

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Home Depot or Lowes has these little 4" piano hinges like I used on ole Toad's vanity mirror way back in the day. Stronger than OEM.

Cickee here
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I'll get some of those hinges!!
 

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There are/were two inherent problems with the top case of the 02 K1200LT. The mirror /light and the closing hinge. After reading about both, early after I bought my 02 model, I did two things.

1. Removed the mirror and light and 2. learned how to properly close the top case when necessary.

The removed and unbroken mirror along with the light was reinstalled when I sold the bike. After 8 years and 50,000 miles, I didn't need either.

When I closed the top case, I gently push down on it's top to compress the rubber gasket and take pressure off of the locking latch. I did not always close the case with the locking latch and mostly left it open, but closed. It was so heavy that it never came open when riding and I only closed it with the locking latch for security reasons.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good info, thank you. I think I will start leaving the locking latch unlocked. We are in that top case a lot. I can't imagine that it would ever come open.
 

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The only problem I ever had with leaving it un-locked was other drivers trying to signal me that it was "open."

It is possible that a very quick panic stop could swing it open, but that never happened.
 

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tonygret said:
Here is what I did. Still working fine after a year.
+1 on this fix. Found the hinges at the local ACE hardware. They have a couple sizes that look close. I brought in both halves of the mirror assembly and measured which of the two hinges was the perfect fit. I believe it was the smaller of the two.
ACE: Narrow Hinge (solid brass) 3/4in x 5/8in.

HTH,
Jer
 

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for those having issues w/screw length, I used heavy duty double sided tape to mount the hinges, works perfect, just clean all surfaces w/ alcohol, and press on. Jim
 

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I had the same problem and used two small brass hinges and carefully drilled the holes and it works like a charm. Also had to repair the fromt right rear view mirror mounting assembly, Used some fishing line and epoxy and it is still holding. These little fixes are annoying but still love the bike. By the way bungy cords will help keep the trip trunk closed.........Ha Ha.
Cheers,
Jim :histerica :bmw:
 

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At the risk of going a little off-topic, has anyone come up with an alternative to the fiddly little dome nut that holds the vanity mirror closed?
 

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A new vanity mirror cost $35.75 + shipping. I figured the first one lasted 12 years so what the hey.

11 Mirror 1 46542347000 $35.75
 

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I also replied to HAL9000 who had the same issue.
Drill out the broken plastic and glue steel pins in. That has worked well for me.
 

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I had my mirror hinge tab break this last weekend.. Had all of the broken pieces so I was able to make a repair. I drilled out the plastic pin and inserted a heavy duty paper clip and glued it. Also glued the plastic holder on the base of the hinge. I like the idea of adding small metal hinges as shown in one of the postings.

Also had a problem with the magnet not holding the mirror closed. I installed two pieces of plastic "velcro" on either side of the magnet and it has worked. I also did the same thing with the gas lid as I got tired of the lid not closing fully. I removed the stock catch and just use the plastic velcro again - works.
 

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OK, here’s what we used to call the “straight skinny” in my old Navy days, on how to fix the broken vanity mirror hinges in the KLT topcase.
Home Depot has a set of four brass hinges (I used three of them) with screws for two or three dollars and change (Sorry - I didn’t keep my receipt). They are Gate House brand, #0311938, size 1” X ¾”.
Position the inges right up against the raised portion on the bottom outside (non-mirror side) of the mirror piece. I positioned them with the hinge barrel facing out. Hold them in place with a drop of super glue, being careful not to let the glue get into the barrel of the hinge. By putting them right up against the raised portion, they will be aligned with one another, function smoothly together and be safely away from the mirror..
Drill a 1/16” pilot hole in the middle of each hole and use a #1 philips bit screwdriver to put in ONE screw on ONE hinge. Now here’s the time-saving part. Eyeball how much too long the screw is and use a pair of diagonal cutter to cut a second screw to length. Hole the dikes and screw in a baggie to catch the pieces when they snap apart. Put the shortened screw in and see if is the right length so as to catch the plastic well while not presenting a snag hazard. Once you get the length right, put in all the shortened screws, replacing the first full-length test screw.
Position the mirror piece in the top box, put a drop of super glue on the lower half of each hinge,(one at a time, holding it until the glue sets) the drill the pilot holes and put in screws shortened to the length you determined with the mirrored piece. Confirm that there are no snag s on the inside of the box. Pat yourself on the back and treat yourself to a glass of your favorite beverage.
This method works much better than trying to cut off the long screws with a Dremel after installation. I tried to do that and discovered on the first screw that it tended heated the screw and loosened it in the plastic.
 

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I just ordered a complete new mirror Part 46 54 2 347 000 and the storing partition Part 52 53 2 347 026. Sould be good for another 5 years and looks original.
 
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