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Hi, all. I see from other posts that the handle / latch on the top case of the 12KLT has a tendency to break, which mine just did. I also see that one cannot order the part individually, but must be purchased as a part of the entire top case. I did find an aftermarket replacement from A&S for $375. I'm hoping I don't have to go that route. Does anybody have one available or know where I may be able to find a used one? In the mean time, I'll be JB welding the old one.
Thanks!
Matt
 

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Good luck with the JB Weld. Tried that with mine but broke again soooooo I ordered the after market one for $375.00. Best thing I ever did. Strictly top shelf stuff. All machined from billet aluminum. If you intending on keeping the LT, invest in the after market one.
 

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JR weld will not hold it together. To much stress on the part.

You can buy direct from manufacture and he is also a forum member. Quality parts.

http://www.lttrunklatch.com/p1.htm
user name: BilletsGalore
Evan Guy
LT Trunk Latch
210-681-8987*
 

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I have the replacement. The man who designed it and manufactures lives north of Houston in Montgomery county! Great guy! Makes a great product.

My OEM latch had not completely broke, but the stress pattern was there just waiting to happen.

What I do now...is even with the replacement latch, when I park my LT in the garage I don't lock down the latch. No need for it to be under tension.

Get the replacement....Great piece of mind and a poor engineering problem is solved.

Replacing by buying the OEM part is much more expensive. You have to get the whole lower half of the trunk at a price of over $1,000 parts only...no tax....shipping or labor..(unless you do it yourself). And it is no better than what came on your LT...it will break in the future...metal used just can't handle the stress.
 

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I have the replacement. The man who designed it and manufactures lives north of Houston in Montgomery county! Great guy! Makes a great product.

My OEM latch had not completely broke, but the stress pattern was there just waiting to happen.

What I do now...is even with the replacement latch, when I park my LT in the garage I don't lock down the latch. No need for it to be under tension.

Get the replacement....Great piece of mind and a poor engineering problem is solved.

Replacing by buying the OEM part is much more expensive. You have to get the whole lower half of the trunk at a price of over $1,000 parts only...no tax....shipping or labor..(unless you do it yourself). And it is no better than what came on your LT...it will break in the future...metal used just can't handle the stress.
I leave mine I latched in the garage also. I don't think that helps the latch handle all that much as I am not sure it is under stress unless being moved.

However, it does keep the trunk seal from being compressed all the time. And it eliminates one or two cycles each day as I remove my stuff when I get home at night and then don't need to cycle the latch in the morning to load my stuff back in. :)
 

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Apparently this is a common problem. Where does it break? I want to see if mine has any signs of pending failure.
 

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I GOT THE "FIX IT BEFORE IT BREAKS" KIT FOUR YEARS AGO AND IT WORKS FANTASTIC, NEVER WORRY ABOUT IT. a LOT CHEAPER THEN $300+.
 

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I GOT THE "FIX IT BEFORE IT BREAKS" KIT FOUR YEARS AGO AND IT WORKS FANTASTIC, NEVER WORRY ABOUT IT. a LOT CHEAPER THEN $300+.
+1 for the FIBIB kit - I didn't want to end up with a broken latch miles from home…. :bmw:
 

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Apparently this is a common problem. Where does it break? I want to see if mine has any signs of pending failure.
Some pics here. Cause seems to be putting too much pressure on the latch to close the topcase lid when it is full.... you might also see the latch pins have been cut through slightly.. if so its a sign too much pressure on the latch & pins when closing.
Good habit is to always push down on the lid firmly and keep the pins and latch parts lubed. Otherwise you can join the "fix it" club (see rest of pics in same place) :rolleyes:

Pic of break spot attached for simplicity too, can happen either side...
 

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glue the broken bit back on and remove the pin from the broken side and keep using it, costs nothing if you really want to be cheap. mine broke years ago and I used the kit you are referring to, they are worth every cent.
 

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I learned very quickly that owning a BMW is not for dollar store shoppers, any regrets, not one iota, I appriciate every dollar spent on my girlfriend.
 

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Between $400 mirrors and latches what should be cheap fixes turn into a significant percentage of the cost of the bike. Mine was JB'ed about 4 years ago and haven't had an issue since with both latches still functioning, never lubricated any of it but I think I will. Bondo sells a shapeable metal reinforcing lath for body repair. Cut and shape the lath across the pieces and out a little ways to reinforce. Rough up the entire area where the lath will lay with something like a metal grinding bit and epoxy it all, let it harden a couple days.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Bondo-Self-Adhesive-Patch/17130353
 

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I believe you could simply lower the upper latch assembly for an inexpensive solution. Drill out the rivets and re-rivet it with a shim underneath. Problem solved. I fixed mine by lowering the horizontal latch pins with a couple of adapters I built from aluminum cable crimps. Completely eliminated the stress on the latch and doesn't leak a drop.
 

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I believe you could simply lower the upper latch assembly for an inexpensive solution. Drill out the rivets and re-rivet it with a shim underneath. Problem solved. I fixed mine by lowering the horizontal latch pins with a couple of adapters I built from aluminum cable crimps. Completely eliminated the stress on the latch and doesn't leak a drop.
Now there's an alternative solution I've never heard before! :yeah:
 

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I believe you could simply lower the upper latch assembly for an inexpensive solution. Drill out the rivets and re-rivet it with a shim underneath. Problem solved. I fixed mine by lowering the horizontal latch pins with a couple of adapters I built from aluminum cable crimps. Completely eliminated the stress on the latch and doesn't leak a drop.
Dean you don't happen to have some pictures of the lowering the pins do you that's my problem it bits hard on the pins everything is good so far
 

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I believe you could simply lower the upper latch assembly for an inexpensive solution. Drill out the rivets and re-rivet it with a shim underneath. Problem solved. I fixed mine by lowering the horizontal latch pins with a couple of adapters I built from aluminum cable crimps. Completely eliminated the stress on the latch and doesn't leak a drop.
I removed the latches when mine was nearly new (after reading the issues here with broken handles) and filed a 1/16 or so off the parts that engage the pins. I then polished them with sandpaper up to 1,000 grit or so. Kept well greased and with a little pressure downward on the top, my top case latches very easily. I have some wear on the left pin, but in 7 years and 46K miles, all is well with the original parts. I carry a compute bag to work and my wife carries her hair brush and such in the trunk, so my trunk gets opened and closed at least twice every ride.

As an aside, I sometimes forget to latch mine and have had no problems. One time I left it unlatched while parked in front of a restaurant while having breakfast. A nice older lady came over to remind me that I had left my gas cap open. My wife and I got a good chuckle out of that and to this day we remind each other to close the gas cap. :)
 
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