[shelmen1]

Hi Everyone-

I was hoping to take a trip to upper Michigan before I need to go back to work, but I noticed a fuel leak the other day as luck would have it. When I removed the side cover, it seems the return fuel line (pictured) ruptured. I have 2 questions-

1) Looking at the fuel hose replacement procedure in my Clymer's manual, it looks time consuming and a little complicated removing the throttle body, etc.... I looked around the technical docs on this site and didn't see another set of instructions. Any advice on the best way to get it done with the least hassle. I would prefer to do it myself, but not if it's going to take me a really long time. I replaced my brake lines last fall with some good advice from this forum on brake bleeding.

2) Can I add a metal connector between the two broken ends with a couple hose clamps to get by until next spring and still be able to go for the ride?

Thanks

 

[saddleman]

That is not a fuel pressure or fuel return line. It is either from the fuel tank safety valve to the charcoal canister or the catch pan overfill line. You can use a hose barb to repair it. That line has no pressure.

 

[Munmi]

That is not a fuel pressure or fuel return line. It is either from the fuel tank safety valve to the charcoal canister or the catch pan overfill line. You can use a hose barb to repair it. That line has no pressure.

Dave, at the top of image 2, that is one of the fuel lines with the hose clamp on the pump, correct?

 

[jiml8]

Dave, at the top of image 2, that is one of the fuel lines with the hose clamp on the pump, correct?

Your fuel lines will be at about the top of that picture. I think I see one half cut off at the top...at least, I see a white thing in about the right position to be one of the original plastic fuel line quick-connects. There should be two of those, and the prudent person will replace them with brass quick connects. Beemer Boneyard sells them.

I concur that the line you have which is split is not important; replacing it should be simple or just using a barb fitting is absolutely fine. You won't need to clamp the barb either.

What I am wondering about is why the bottom of that motor is covered in oil. If the machine is in good condition, the motor should be dry.

 

[norton]

From the pics it looks like whatever is coming out of the cracked hose is what wet the engine case.

 

[shelmen1]

Thanks guys, I guess I mis-diagnosed the issue. I'll confirm if it's the overflow hose. I would bet you are correct as I noticed the leak after filling up the tank and parking it in my driveway which slants slightly downhill.

The oil is from when I changed the oil the other week- somehow I didn't tighten the oil plug enough leading to a drip which I stopped since. I will wash off the oil and make sure it stays clean before taking any trips.

Thanks for your help.

 

[JNW003]

After coming back and re-reading this thread, the thought occurred to me that once the broken vent line was fixed, shouldn't shelmen1 also check to verify that his canister isn't backed up too? I would want to ensure that once the tank is vented again, that the canister (if the bike hasn't had the canisterectomy yet) is still working properly before going on a long trip. In addition, when putting the tupperware back on, he needs to make sure that the vent line is properly routed and not pinched closed, which would create a vacuum to collapse his fuel tank. John Zeiler fixed Doc's LT at this year's CCR that had this problem, and my tank collapsed during the ride to the Chattanooga CCR because of a pinched vent line.
:bmw:

 

[14wntr]

I would be more concerned about that oil on the back of the engine.