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Discussion Starter #1
Two weeks ago I changed my rear break pads. Everything worked great. Yesterday I changed the oil, transmission fluid and FD fluid. I also mounted a new tire on the rear. Everything worked great. After reinstalling everything and riding down the road I had no rear breaks! Limping back home and looking I could not find anything wrong? Break lever goes down all the way and the ABS motor sound like its working (making the humming noise) but nothing is stopping. Break light stays on and it seems like the thing is sticking? ABS will hum for a while until the break light goes out? I'm confusied about what may have happened. Anyone got any ideas? Fluid is full. Front works fine. 2002 modle. 19000 miles.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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The ABS pumps will whine anytime the brake lights are on. Sounds like you may have blown the line from the rear master cylinder to the ABS unit. You can check the integrity of the integral system by placing it on the center stand and have some one rotate the rear wheel with the key on (engine off) and pull the front lever. If the rear wheel stops your issue is with the master cylinder and associated line.

If the wheel does not stop shut her down and look at the rear reservoir. May have to loosen the plastic right in front of the saddle bag. This reservoir has two separate chambers one is for the front wheel circuit (calipers) and the other is shared by both the rear control circuit ( rear master cylinder) and the rear wheel circuit (caliper). If you have lost fluid in that chamber you would get no rear pedal or brake action.

Take a look and let us know what you find.
 

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jzeiler said:
The ABS pumps will whine anytime the brake lights are on. Sounds like you may have blown the line from the rear master cylinder to the ABS unit. You can check the integrity of the integral system by placing it on the center stand and have some one rotate the rear wheel with the key on (engine off) and pull the front lever. If the rear wheel stops your issue is with the master cylinder and associated line.

If the wheel does not stop shut her down and look at the rear reservoir. May have to loosen the plastic right in front of the saddle bag. This reservoir has two separate chambers one is for the front wheel circuit (calipers) and the other is shared by both the rear control circuit ( rear master cylinder) and the rear wheel circuit (caliper). If you have lost fluid in that chamber you would get no rear pedal or brake action.

Take a look and let us know what you find.
Do you sleep with the spec's for these things on an audio tape or what????? :D
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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I have been accused of loving wrenching more than riding but I think it is even Steven. If I can ride I ride if I can't ride I wrench.

Or I wrench , therefore I am.

Yes I need help. Hi, my name is John and it has been two days since I had a wrench in my hands...
 

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My own personal pet peave; but it BRAKES, not breaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Switched on with engine off, pull front brake and rear wheel stops great. Rear brake applied and just a little drag. Now I have fluid leaking around the foot pedal. Must be something with the master cylinder? Don't know what i might have done for this to start? Just my luck I guess. Looks like the tupperware will have to come off after all.
 

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The flex line from the rear master cylinder to the solid line to the ABS unit is a point of failure.
I had a new stainless one made up at the Hose Place here in town for about 20 bucks..

When the bike gets serviced somtimes that piece is taken off and left to hang. Eventually the hose fails.

Cheap fix.....For a BMW

John
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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ronnieds said:
Switched on with engine off, pull front brake and rear wheel stops great. Rear brake applied and just a little drag. Now I have fluid leaking around the foot pedal. Must be something with the master cylinder? Don't know what i might have done for this to start? Just my luck I guess. Looks like the tupperware will have to come off after all.
Not much to remove here. Just the front and rear foot plate and the tupperware refered to as the "battery cover". You can undo the front torx screw by pulling out on the big fairing and using a #20 torx (the screw is #25) in an offset mode. That will give you access to the line and MC. Either one could be leaking and there is no "cause" other than age. Just be aware of how the hoses are routed around the MC (take some pictures) the twist is not obvious when you re-assemble unless you note it before you take it apart.
 

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Cat Herder
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Hey John,

I am glad you "Wrench therefore, You Are"... LOL
You know more about brakes than the dealers do.

I did talk to my friend at the dealer today and he got a bulletin from BMW NA and they are working on refurbed ABS units. He is hoping to get his hands on the parts list needed to repair the unit or get it repaired.

I also talked to modulemaster.com in Idaho and the have been working on ABS I & II. They would love to get their hands on a broken integral ABS unit to tear into.

FYI... I am still looking for a ABS modulator for an '02 LT
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Jeff,

I have been following your struggles. Hope we can find a rebuilder. Getting the parts is the hard part. If the electronics are marked well there may be a chance, but there is just not a lot of documentation out there. It would be nice to know who they jobbed it out to for manufacture.
 

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Cat Herder
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Hi John,

I got some info from Darrell on another thread and he gave the site www.bmwabs.com
They actually have the LT listed as one of the models they can repair. It doesn't say whether or not they fix integral systems, BUT the part number they listed starts with the first 6 digits that mine has.

I have been told the the first 6 digits and/or the last 6 digits need to match the old unit to ensure that the ABS unit with function properly in the LT.

Hopefully they can take mine and fix it... that would work for me.

Jeff
 

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They're brakes, but when you brake and they break, then they're broke. But which came first, the brake or the break?
:confused:
Seriously though, if you don't want to use an EO line pull the old one and give Spiegler a call. They can make you up a replacement which will probably cost less than the OE and be of better quality.
http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/brakelines.cfm
 

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2005 K1200LT
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14,259 Posts
tvguy said:
Hi John,

I got some info from Darrell on another thread and he gave the site www.bmwabs.com
They actually have the LT listed as one of the models they can repair. It doesn't say whether or not they fix integral systems, BUT the part number they listed starts with the first 6 digits that mine has.

I have been told the the first 6 digits and/or the last 6 digits need to match the old unit to ensure that the ABS unit with function properly in the LT.

Hopefully they can take mine and fix it... that would work for me.

Jeff
I looked at the site and followed the trail to the LT ABS unit and the picture was the ABS II unit. But maybe they are willing to try the Integral unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Found the leak! The little short hose from the foot cylinder up to the steel line block. Small pin hole leak. Where can I find one? It was 80degrees today and I couldn't ride. That sucks.....
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You can get a replacement one from the dealer or Spiegler makes SS aftermarket lines for the LT.
 

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Cat Herder
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Hey John,

I did notice that the picture was not correct. They sent me an email telling me to send my unit in and they could fix it for $689. I told them it was an integral brake unit.

I will call them tomorrow to double confirm they can fix my unit.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ordered the hose from BMW of Atlanta. Hope to have it Thursday and on by Friday. Hopefully riding by Friday afternoon.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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You will bleed this hose from the master cylinder up to the ABS unit only - NOT to the rear caliper. This will be done with the key off. The picture I have is of a later model (05) unit but yours is similar in that you have bleeder #1 and #3 as shown here but bleeder #2 is on the outboard side of the ABS just above all the brake pipes. You will fill the reservoir and pump the pedal then bleed out air from #1. Once that is done shift to #2 on the side. Then to the long one #3. Then back to #1 for good measure. Keep the reservoir full. If you have done it correctly you should have a firm pedal. If your reservoir ran dry because of the leak I would recommend bleeding the wheel circuit.

This is done by filling the reservoir and then turn on the key and apply the rear brake pedal. Open the bleed nipple on the caliper and watch how fast the fluid is pumped out. Keep an eye on the reservoir, don't let it run dry. Close the bleeder on the caliper and re-fill the reservoir.
 

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