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I'm very hesitant in removing and replacing the rear brake line on an '03 K1200Lt to the caliper because of the ABS system. But I read in a manual it would be no difference in bleeding a caliper on a car.

Can I just remove the upper portion of the line, fill the new line with fluid to reduce the amount of air I'd have to bleed and then remove the lower portion of the bad and an then connect the lower portion of the new line to the caliper and then bleed it there? Do I risk doing any damage to the ABS system? I really don't want to take it to the dealer and pay the very high labor amount if I can do this task myself if I can just bleed at the caliper. Seems easy enough. Is there any resetting I need to do on the ABS system? do I need the engine running to bleed when I apply the brakes to bleed? Which handle do I use the front or the foot brake lever?
Would I upgrade to metal lines and replace the stock OEM? :bmw:
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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If you are just replacing the one line from the caliper to the hard line then it is quite simple. Just replace the line then run a piece of clear tubing from the caliper bleed nipple to the front half of the rear reservoir. Turn on the key and gently press the pedal and let the ABS pump run. Watch the reservoir for fluid level and if it drops before fluid fills the line, stop and re fill the reservoir. Then proceed to run the pump until no air is in the line. Top off the reservoir and you are done.
 

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Replace all lines, my failed lines started with rear caliper line, then later after bleeding etc turned into 2 rides home with no front brakes.
Order speigler kit, they got it to me in 1 1/5 weeks and brakes are better than ever. Did not know the brakes were spongy until they became solid and really good
 

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Good avdice from John if you are set on just replacing the one line. You'll almost certainly be ahead in the long run to do them all at once. Perhaps a compromise......... order the Spiegler set and then just install them one at a time as they go out. If you lose one, the others soon follow. At least mine did.
 

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I would hate to have one of my brake lines go out when I'm entering a corner at over 100 mph and am depending on full braking so I don't crash. I rely 100% on my brakes when I'm riding in the mountains.
 

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I just rode my '02 LT 700 miles home from Montana without front brakes; leaking line to the right front rotor, spraying fluid on the rotor. No parts in Montana, no parts available anywhere in the nation on a Monday except from Speigler, who would overnight them but still wouldn't get to the job before Wednesday, no rent trucks available in the state because of Sturgis going on, so rode it home carefully - very carefully.

All Speigler lines (steel-braided) were a piece of cake to install once the tupperwear was off the bike, except the one from the rear master cylinder to the hard line behind the right side frame casting. Remove the battery cover, battery, remove the two bolts holding the battery box at the front, remove the right side upper frame bolt and the bolt holding the upper end of the rear shock and you can get two wrenches on the assembly to remove the banjo bolt. A real PITA, but doable. Taking the bike to a repair shop tomorrow to get the system charged with fluid and the ABS operational. Wish me luck that the ABS is not Tango Uniform...
 

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No need to remove the battery cover etc to get to the banjo bolt on the line running from the Rear master cylinder inside the right driver foot peg cover. The upper connection that ties the OEM Rear Master Cylinder hose to the hard line running to the ABS is mounted on a piece of thin metal sheeting. It can be moved with pliers grabbing the metal bracket. This make is easier to get clean access to the hex head of the Banjo Bolt. But it is made even easier if you remove both mounting bolts of the rear shock and then slide the rear shock down. This opens up the area where you can get a larger access area. Remember also that when you replace the lines that the hard metal part of each brake line ( the round ends for the banjo bolt to go through) mounts on the counter clockwise side of the metal tab of the hard line connector. This metal tab keeps the line from rotating when torquing the banjo bolts.

Removing at least the front air filter horn (remove the second section of the air filter horn if you have stipped the gas tank off the bike) to have more access area to the two connectors up under the nose cone). Working from the right side at the same height as the connections is much easier than having to come from underneath!

Don't forget to reinstall the rear shock and put medium grade Locktite on the bolts.

You can Reverse flush-bleed the front and rear control circuits and the front and rear wheel circuits. Simple to do..Gets all the air out. You won't generate any fault codes. And you will have fully operational control circuits and wheel circuits with no air left in the circuits.
And for those who don't know what is meant by the word circuit when used in context of brakes. Not talking about electrical circuits, but how the brake fluid travels from reservoir to master cylinder to each wheel and how it travels from the reservoir to the ABS unit. Remember with the LT, we have 4 circuits: 2 for the ABS control circuits and 2 for the Wheel Circuits. The wheel and control circuits are not inter-connected. That is why if and when the ABS stops working we have "residual Braking". Means no ABS assisted braking. Or rather back to manual braking.

To clear all of the air from the lines and the iABS unit. Don't follow the service manual procedure. Get the Phoenix V-5 reverse bleeder...sells for about $60. For the Front and Rear Control Circuits: At F3 and R3 bleeder tube (horizontal on 02 to 04 and vertical on 05 and up...these are the long bleeder tube on the ABS not the short ones.....on the 99-2001 you would use the two short bleeder on top the ABS unit)...REVERSE flush clean new brake fluid through F3 and R3 into the iABS and up to the handle bar reservoir for F3 and to the Rear Reservoir under the passenger seat for 02-04 or on the iABS reservoirs on the 05 and up until there is no air bubbles coming out at the reservoir. BUT and I will say it again BUT Monitor at the base of the bleeders for leakage as you pressure brake fluid into the ABS....if it leaks...FLUSH WITH WATER everything below the ABS module....ALSO monitor and remove fluid at each reservoir to avoid spills. One person can reverse flush the rear control circuit by just attaching a tube to the vents on top of the reservoirs under the passenger seat on 02-04 models. As you push fluid through the iABS for the rear control, the fluid will exit out the vent. On the Front control circuit..it exits at the reservoir tank on the right handle bar....works better with a helper to syphon off fluid as it enters the reservoir tank. PUT A QUARTER in the handle bar tank to keep a geyser of brake fluid from squirting all over you, the bike and the garage!

For the wheel circuits, which do run through the iABS, but do not connect to the control circuits, Begin at the Front left caliper and then do the right caliper and on the Rear Brake-begin on the left bleed screw and then the right bleed screw: Flush until no air remains. Reverse flush from the Calipers up to the reservoir. The out put of fluid will occur through the vent tubes on the reservoirs under the passenger seat. On 05 and up this will occur on the iABS module...you will have to monitor fluid rise or buy the screw down vent tube port used on the 02-04 models and screw into the reservoir on 05 and up connecting a tube to the collection bottle.

After Reverse flushing the Front and Rear wheel circuits, I also flushed from the reservoirs down to the Calipers..just to make sure that I did not have any residual air in the wheel circuits. I noticed a few very smal air bubbles in my output return lines to the collection bottle. All total I used more than 2 quarts of fresh fluid. I probably flushed new fluid longer than I needed to flush. But brake fluid is cheap.

Remember to flush all surfaces with water to neutralize any spilled brake fluid even if you don't see it.

I just did this two nights back! On my lift with my LT strapped down, I removed the rear wheel pan and used a ratchet strap to pull down the rear of the LT to raise the front wheel about a 1/4 inch off the lift. Started the LT and dropped into 1st gear. With the rear wheel turning I spun the front wheel in the direction of travel and checked for any faults showing on the dash board. No faults.

Next I attached my GS-911 for any fault codes. None presently showing!

Kool!
To celebrate a successful "All brake line replacement and flushing/bleeding of my lines and iABS and NO FAULT CODES" I went inside and made a huge Dagwood type sandwich! :)

Now I am replacing as many of the crappy OEM electric line covers that are disintegrating that I can get my gorrilla hand near! It is amazing that these covers are not more heat resistant...! sigh! Oh well It is what it is!

I want to again thank John Aka Jzeiler for all his help and the Northern Illinois BMW club videos and their president. All great resources!

None of this should be scary or intimidating! Yes we need to depend on our brakes and their proper functioning. But there is no reason to have to give your dealer $1,000 plus to replace your lines and flush your system with new fluid with no air in the system. You just need to know that it isn't a couple of hour job. Take your time, even if it is one or two days! You will learn how to maintain your bike, understand how it works, see other things to upgrade and or maintain. And when you ride down the road you can take pride in knowing it was done right and that you did it. And you saved $700-$800 in the process. Don't get in a rush or hurry! Let it be a cathartic process and a...be one with the bike! You will be amazed at how good you feel! And what is the downside if you mess it up! Well a little more time sorting it out! A little more brake fluid! And maybe the price of beer and pizza for one of us here on the forum to come over and give you a hand.. or sit and supervise your doing it.....lol Bottom line with all the experience on this forum and willingness that I have witnessed of others to help...there isn't anything that can't be tackled. Thanks to all!
 

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Thanks for the detailed information on bleeding the system. I or someone else will certainly use it in future. Got the LT back today; relatively good news in that the ABS is not faulted. Bill was "only" $410. I am going to have to do my own maintenance and will be able to do so thanks to the great help on this site. Thanks, guys.
 

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Thanks for the detailed information on bleeding the system. I or someone else will certainly use it in future. Got the LT back today; relatively good news in that the ABS is not faulted. Bill was "only" $410. I am going to have to do my own maintenance and will be able to do so thanks to the great help on this site. Thanks, guys.
410$ for bleeding the brakes? :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
 

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Rear reservoir has two compartments the tops/caps are at two different heights, are the fluid levels supposed to be the same? ie the min max lines for the front apply for the rear also?
Front compartment is ABS circuit, rear the wheel circuit?
Related; I grabbed a small can of Zerex dot4 from walmart it is clear not red. Looks like the rear compartment was mostly or all clear fluid when I started. (this is likely a heads up that others were here before) So is there commonly available dot4 that's red? Hard to see the level of clear fluid in a milk white reservoir....
Looks like stock lines on an 02 with 127K miles from the upper midwest.
Hoping to stop the slow wigwag..... I'm aware brake line r&r to spieglers is advised. doing the basic what did I buy stuff first. Might be able to get some miles on it this week forecast highs in the 40's with sun.
 

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Hard to see the level of clear fluid in a milk white reservoir....
I found shining a light from the top does a good job of showing the fluid levels inside the reservoirs.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Ignore the level indicators and fill them right up to the top. The sensors are very sensitive and a teaspoon can make a difference. The fluid should be clear to amber yellow. If it is reddish it should be changed as it has absorbed too much moisture. Wheel circuits should be flushed annually and control circuits every two years. I always find the fluid discolored. There is a racing DOT 4 that is dyed blue if you want a color.

Ooops looks like the Feds have put an end to colored brake fluid: "Effective immediately, and until further notice, all distribution of ATE Super Blue Racing DOT 4 Brake Fluid will end in the United States due to non compliance with applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard for brake fluid. The federal standard requires motor vehicle brake fluid to be colorless or amber in color."

Don't you just love it when they save us from ourselves?
 

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just to touch base; filled rear reservoir to the top and the wig wag lights are out, Victory! Next up a new battery.
 
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