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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone replaced their brake line grub screw with a speed bleeder on a 2003 (or similiar) year? Since this is part of what looks to me like a complicated ABS system, does it make any sense for an amateur to try put in speed bleeders and change the brake fluid themselves? I really don't recall very many questions discussing the detailed proceedure, which makes me think that this is something that I shouldn't bother attempting.

Also, 2 1/2 years and I haven't touched the brake system yet (no obvious reason or problem... yet). Should I pay ($$$) and have it changed now or how long would you go without changing it and still consider it safe? Just looking for tried and true opinions.
 

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Long story...

The answer to your question is very long. Start here.

Many of us are contemplating the same thing.
 

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I would not wait any longer than 2 years to change or have the brake fluid changed. Condensation naturally creeps into your system and mixes with the fluid as your rotors and calipers heat up and cool down. If you let this moisture remain in the system you may not notice decreased braking capability, but this moisture will eventually ruin that expensive linked brake setup including the electronic pumps.

If you do decide to do the brake fluid change yourself, I don't see what a speed bleeder really buys you. Just attach clear tubing to the bleeders that are on the electronic pumps, as you depress the lever, the motor will whine and expel the old fluid while the bleeder is open. NEVER let any of the resivoirs drop below the minimum mark during this operation. Don't even attempt it unless you read Mark's write-up. You'll know after reading if you want to tackle the job.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Lets make this easier...

What's the consensus on (2003 or equivalent) brake fluid changes...dealer... or do it yourself?
 

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2wheeler said:
What's the consensus on (2003 or equivalent) brake fluid changes...dealer... or do it yourself?
What is the typical charge at the dealer?
 

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My dealer is charging me $100 for both the brake and clutch fluid change plus $400 for the 12000 mile service. Also putting on 2 new tires. I dont think thats bad at all.
 

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My dealer charged $300 for both circuts and the clutch as part of my 24K service. I did everything else.
 

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This is my take on this issue. I haven't changed my fluid yet, but will do it myself. The main reasons are:

Cost
More familiarization of the LT
Dealer trust

My biggest problem with going to a dealer on this one is I have never known a dealer in the 4 states I have lived, to be as conscientious as myself. I do not trust the dealer techs to be as careful as I will in keeping DOT 4 brake fluid away from all painted components, including the subframe.

Heck I don't even trust them to be careful with the tupperware removal.

Just my 2CW
 

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I put them on my '03 and it makes the job a little easier because it has a check valve to keep air out. No problems at all and that was 22,000 miles ago . . .
 

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It is really surprising how fast the break system picks up moisture. I had thought I’d be able to go longer, since the humidity is very low here. Not so.

bob
 

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I read the procedure described in the Word attachment. As Mark Neblett wrote, looks more tedius than difficult. One thought/question I have. Mark notes the pumps push the fluid in the wheel circuits very fast. Wouldn't it be possible and more controllable to flush the wheel circuits with the pumps turned off, using the manual backup? Sorry if this has been asked before.
 
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