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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

I've had good help from this forum and hope you can help me out on this:
Does anyone have the schematics of the brake system on the K1200LT 2000 ? There's no pump - those I can find plenty of, but not the non-integrated ones.

Just want to understand what I'll be doing when I flush the brakes this winter following Kirk's video guide.. Am thinking of changing the brake lines as well.

Best regards to all
Michael
 

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Hi guys,

I've had good help from this forum and hope you can help me out on this:
Does anyone have the schematics of the brake system on the K1200LT 2000 ? There's no pump - those I can find plenty of, but not the non-integrated ones.

Just want to understand what I'll be doing when I flush the brakes this winter following Kirk's video guide.. Am thinking of changing the brake lines as well.

Best regards to all
Michael
Was looking for a pic of the modulator but apparently I haven't saved on off of the non integrated yet. There really isn't much of a schematic to them. There is only one reservoir per circuit, front on the bars and back under the rear seat on the right side.

The modulator has 2 bleed ports on the top. Front is front and rear is rear. I usually bleed the modulator first till it runs clear and then do the wheel circuits. Of course the front has 2 calipers so doing the right side first removes most of the old fluid and then the left will only need the crossover tube and what fluid is in the caliper itself.

If you still have the ventilation screw attachment on the right front side, you will need a vent screw in your tool box.

34 11 7 658 388 VENT SCREW (from 01/01) 0.02 2 $9.58

Even though you can remove the ventilation screw attachment (with heat, it has loctite on it) and replace it with this vent screw ( bleed valve) this is the same screw you will need to bleed the clutch circuit so I just keep one to do the maintenance and leave it on there. It has a cap screwed into the top on it which you must remove to screw the bleed valve in and depress the check ball to release fluid.

When doing the front, place a nice shiny quarter in the bottom of the reservoir on the bars and it will keep from shooting fluid onto your paint if you use the pump method as I do. When you squeeze the handle, some fluid will shoot out of the hole in the bottom. Don't forget to remove it when done.

Good luck
 

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The Villages, FL
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See if this helps. This is from the repair manual I used for my 2000LT. If you want the entire manual, either pm me your email address or send me a email to:
mtrevelino (at) hotmail.com
It may take you a couple of days to receive it as I use a free file share server.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi,
I have the manual but am missing some kind of "how it works in a few lines" drawing

I found this of an integrated circuit, so I'm looking for the smpler non-integrated one :laugh:

Thx, Mike
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,170 Posts
The way your ABS works is with a variable displacement piston one each for front and rear. These pistons are connected with a pull chain to a crank shaft driven by an electric motor. When the electronics detect a wheel locking up the motor runs, the respective electric clutch engages that wheel's piston chain and the piston relieves pressure on the errant wheel allowing it to regain traction. Of course this happens many times a second. Here is an internal explosion of what the system looks like.

As far as bleeding - in at the reservoir and out at the caliper. There is a high point port at the top of each piston for possible trapped air but it is a simple bleed (or flush is probably what you are really doing).
 

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