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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried searching for the procedure for replacing the brake hoses on my 2000 LT. Could only find references to the Clymer Manual. I searched all of the chapter on ABS II brakes (14) and could find nothing about replacing the hoses. How much tupperware needs to be removed? Does the fuel tank need to be removed? I can find no guidelines. I found nothing in the "hall of Wisdom" about replacing the hoses. Can the hoses be routed by disconnecting the old ones and using them to pull in the new? I have a lot of unanswered questions.

Help!
 

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When I did mine, I took the front fender off, and the battery cover, right side. I made sure the hoses matched up before I took the original off, and replaced them. Once all the hoses were replaced, a fluid change/flush was done. Really not a huge undertaking. Make sure you wipe up any brake fluid that leaks quickly, not good for paint.
 

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Mike,
I ended up at Sill's since anything more than a flush with Speedbleeders or a pad change-out could mean my life on the road.

Did see the BlueBeast on the lift and the tank was off.

I now have Spieglers on my 2000 LT.
Paul
 

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I just installed new lines this sping. Spiegler has a good video on YouTube that demos the general process for brake line installation. I watched this video several times to help with the basic install concept. I did my install in conjunction with a shock install, so the tupperware (up to the radio), rear tupperware (to the saddlebags), battery, rear brake pedal plate and the front wheel/fender were removed to gain access to critical line connections. I did not need to remove the tank. The removal of the old and install of the new was pretty easy (after making sure that the lines matched). The line bleeding was bit more time consuming and complex....but doable.

Hope this helps
 

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I did Spieglers on my 2000 LT this spring after just having reassembled all the tupperware from other maintenance. When I did mine I removed the right side panel and the battery covers on both sides. I would probably recommend taking off the left side fairing panel also just to make getting the left battery cover off - only needed for bleeding the ABS unit.

You will also need to take off the right side handlebar covers, the right rider foot peg and I would recommend removing the front fender just to avoid fluid dripping on it.

I have made the assumption for the above that you are replacing the rubber lines and not the hydroformed stainless steel pipes that run between the rubber lines. If you are talking the hydroformed pipes then you need to remove the fuel tank etc.

It's really not that big of a job to remove the big pieces of tupperware, so go for it and take care to do it right, make sure you bleed the system thoroughly.
 

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I just did my front break line last month. Here's what I had to remove:
  • Both mirrors
  • Wind winglets
  • The black plastic tip over protectors, chrome trim around them and j-pegs if you have them
  • Left AND right fairing pieces
  • Left and right "battery" covers

The lower spoiler and gray plastic can all stay on. You'll be tempted to tell yourself that you can get to the top of the brake line without removing the fairing pieces. Resist that temptation as it's MUCH easier to reach it and get wrenches on it and leverage without the fairing. The battery covers are to reach the master cylinders (at least on mine) and the ABS pump because you'll need to flush the system once you're through. It's not as daunting a job as I expected.

There's a lot of good information here on this site. I also did a blog post on mine along with pictures of the motorcycle after the needed items were removed. It's at: http://ourbmw.wordpress.com/2012/07/14/make-it-stop-working-on-a-bmw-abs-system/
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the info. I'll try it tomorrow. The mechanics at the dealer, (Mathias) where I got the Spiegler lines from, told me that all the tupperware and the tank have to be removed for the line switch. I really did not believe them! I guess tomorrow I will find out for myself.
 

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I was able to put Spieglers on just the front on mine today and all I removed was the front fender, mud guard and windshield (to avoid any brake fluid on it accidentally). I had a leaking front hose so I just wanted to get the bike back to operational. I'll do the rest of the kit probably after riding season here in Illinois. I also put new front brake pads on today. Took my time and I was test riding it after about 4.5 hours.
 

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mkiesel said:
Thanks for all the info. I'll try it tomorrow. The mechanics at the dealer, (Mathias) where I got the Spiegler lines from, told me that all the tupperware and the tank have to be removed for the line switch. I really did not believe them! I guess tomorrow I will find out for myself.
Yeah, that is probably a scare / price inflation tactic. Just remove the pieces you need to and protect the rest. As for the master cylinder, I have had good luck with placing a cleaned milk jug cap in the reservoir to keep the fluid from squirting up, it floats there nicely and is large enough not to be able to move from over the fountain and heavy enough not to move when the squirt comes up.

Good luck!
 

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I just finished my Speigler line replacement 2 week ago. I did it as a part of an annual service so all the Tware was already off.

IMHO with the fuel tank off or pulled back, on an '05 it is much easier to reach the two fittings that live under the steering column on the right side.

I realize the Tware is a pain but in the end it may be less frustrating removing it than working around it.

If you could delay the Spiegler install until you do an annual service you'd kill the proverbial 2 birds.

If you're removing the brake banjo bolts for the first time it might be a good idea to go ahead a purchase an extra or two in case one gets stripped internally at the allen head. On mine, the 2 fittings mentioned above were a difficult angle and one stripped. I had to vice-grip it out and replace it. They're about $8-10 bucks.

You'll also need an extra supply of small zip locks to hold the new lines in their place.

What ever you decide be patient, and make sure you torque everything you can get a Tq wrench on.

Good luck.
 
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