[Voyager]

Thanks Mark and KSBaltz.

Mark, when you speak of the volumes going down relatively small, I was assuming a 1:1 relationship between what's going into the Speedbleeder bag from the ABS unit to the amount I am filling back up in the handlebar reservoir. Is this an incorrect assumption?

It just seemed that more fluid was coming out than was going in. I have about 12 inches of the speedbleeder bag that has filled with the fluid from the ABS unit. I also have the bag elevated above the bleeding point as indicated per instructions.

I'm assuming I continue along as I am doing until I see that all the fluid is clean and bubble free, and that I should at some point have to refill the handlebar reservoir. . .

Thanks again for the help.
James

I just flushed my 2007, but I am not sure if your 2002 system is the same as mine. However, no matter what system you have, the fluid out vs. fluid in should be 1:1 ratio no matter what!

If you are flushing the control circuits, you need not and should not have the key on so the pump should not be activated. I could watch the fluid go up the tube to the speedbleeder bag each time my wife pumped the brake levers. The control circuits don't displace a lot of fluid on each stroke. I think the fluid only moved 4" or so through the plastic tube and it took a lot of pump strokes, maybe as many as 20 in order to nearly empty the handlebar reservoir.

I started by sucking out as much old fluid as I could and then filled the reservoir with fresh fluid. We then pumped until the reservoir was down to the razor blade and that had plenty of clean fluid through the system. I then removed the razor blade, topped off the reservoir and re-installed the cover.

If you really have filled the bag and not lost any fluid from the handlebar reservoir or rear brake control circuit reservoir, then I fear you have actually drained the ABS modulator. There are 6 bleed valves on the modulator and I don't know what happens if you open either the metering circuit bleeder or the integral circuit bleeder instead of the control circuit bleeder and then activate the pump. See the picture in the document below in the sections on the front and rear control circuits.

http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf

 

[Voyager]

You are starting to sound like pro now Matt.

The only difference between an amateur and a pro is the number of mistakes you have made!

And I had a lot of help from my friends here and lots of reading of both the Clymer manual and my official BMW CD-ROM.

Now if I could just find a bleed screw short enough to fit my clutch bleed hose! I went to every autoparts store in town today and nobody has one short enough! I tried NAPA, Advance and AutoZone and nada. I guess I will have to call Bob's back tomorrow and have them add one of those gold-plated $8 BMW bleeder valves.

I am not sure of the right part number, but it appears that the clutch takes the same size as the rear caliper so maybe the right item is 34 21 2330310. John, do you know if this is the right number for the bleeder needed to replace the clutch check valve assembly? The front bleed "vent" is 34 11 7658388, but no size is listed and I am pretty sure the front bleed valves are not M10x1.0 size.

 

[Voyager]

John, can you elaborate on "inboard" vs. "outboard" tall bleeder. Is the inboard bleeder the one closest to the battery?

By the way, I drained the 15 inches or so of brake fluid in the speedbleeder hose into a cup and I would estimate it to be all of one to two ounces. : )

Self analyzation indicates that I like to get "worked up" on a lot of things.

I do truly appreciate all the help I have received over the years on this site. I have learned multitudes about the bike through its membership.

James

I'm not John, but I'll throw out my $0.02 anyway.

Your best best is to follow the link I posted and look at the pictures in the "101" document. Next to John's video, this is the best place I have found to show precisely which bleed valves to use to do each function.

I doubt you have caused any harm to the ABS unit. I suspect you just pulled the level down enough t trigger the level sensor and thus turn on the light. You may have pulled in some air, in which case you get to do the full bleed process. However, no problem as that is what is described in the "101" document. I unnecessarily used this procedure when flushing my system as it appears that you don't need to open the integral and metering circuits for a routine flush, but you do need to do so for a bleed. So, relax, read the 101 guide thoroughly, and then do the #1, #2, #3, #1 (second time) dance.

Be advised that getting a wrench on some of this fittings is a bear. I found the those angled forward (metering cylinder valves) to be the worst. I used a universal joint drive on my 1/4" ratchet to break them loose (and then retighten a little as quickly as you can) and then I could use an open ended wrench for the open-close for the bleed process itself. Mine were quite tight and I am sure I would have rounded them off had I tried to break them loose with an open end wrench. I was going to heat and bend a box end wrench, but decided to try the u-joint approach first and it worked fine.

When done, I used the ratchet and socket to gently snug up each fitting before replacing the rubber covers.

 

[Voyager]

I use one from and early "Brembo" front caliper. PN 34 21 2 330 310 I guess it is the same as the rear. It will not go very far into it so don't be surprized when you install it but it does work.

I ordered one today and hope it is the right one. $8!! The rubber cover is $4 which is twice what bleeders cost locally, but since the local ones are too long...

BMW prices are just insane