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Miles of Smiles
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Discussion Starter #1
Brake Flush ’06 LT ( ABS II )

Disclaimer :- Done by factory trained Techs, with access to diagnostic PC.

Took Jenna to the dealer for a complete brake fluid flush, Control and Wheel Circuits.
I know much has been written here about this procedure, but having now watched,
and assisted the two other mechanics doing this job, it is very do-able with NO special
tools. Perhaps one. An adaptor to bleed the system from the high point, just like a bleeder only much larger.

Very much required.
A good understanding of the correct bleed sequence and much care not to let the reservoir levels go too low and allow air into the system.

The front control circuits were done first, twice. The ABS motor is not used here. Not 100% sure of the exact sequence of bleeding, but this is the secret. I'll do some more research and reading. Drain the master, using a large clean syringe. Refill each time prior to getting too low. Didn’t see any issues with spaying fluid with the cover off that I have read about. One guy was filling and pumping slowly with only small lever movements, the other bleeding the ABS screws. Using a straight wrench, not a special BMW one at all, although I could see how a small bend in the wrench would help. If you grab a fistful of lever it’s possible to move the piston too far out and that’s not good. A clear drain tube going to a bottle is required to drain and to check for air bubbles. The standard bleeds are prone to allow air past when loosened, and I asked if a thread tape or compound would help. Not much.
Slow and steady seems to be the trick. Not necessary to undo the handle bar reservoir and level, just full left will do.
The rear control circuit was next. Just unclip the reservoir and empty out the old fluid.
Snap the reservoir back in place and continue to refill as the rear brake peddle is depressed. Sorry again as not 100% sure of the sequence of bleeding.

The ’06 ABS pump differs from earlier units ( and latter models too I’m told ) The screw in reservoir for the ABS motor used to bleed the callipers ( Wheel Circuits ) needs a flexible connector to clear the frame, which they didn’t have. Just a very large and clean hypodermic syringe containing the new DOT 4 was used. Use just enough brake to activate the pump as this reduces the output volume, allowing the syringe to replenish the fluid level before dropping too low. Checking this level and replenishing by eye seemed to work fine. The calliper bleeds use the ABS pump and as long as the level in the reservoirs is kept up, seems a fairly standard bleed technique. Inside reservoir which is higher as more volume needed for twin front callipers. Outside for rear.

At one point we needed all three of us. One topping up the ABS reservoir with the syringe, one bleeding the calliper F/R, and one depressing the brake F/R.

After doing all this, hooking up the diagnostic to perform the bleed test and a check for fault codes is required. I had also asked for a printout for brake usage time.

In conclusion:

You can do these 06 brakes with no special tools, ( see above ) but 3 people are needed.
It is always more satisfying to assist techs and demystify the maintenance myths.
This bike has the best brakes on two wheels.

Cheers
 

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Nice post - Sounds like it's easiest to do a group bleed.....
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,171 Posts
Hilton,


It is great that you have a dealer that will let you participate. The procedure is quite simple once you have done it. I use a slim funnel on the ABS reservoirs with a piece of tubing that makes the rigid funnel flex just where it needs to to clear the large tupperware piece and the frame.

Now they may call it that on your side of the pond, but stateside "ABS II" refers to the non-servo assisted system on the early bikes, and "Integral ABS" for the later bikes from late 2001 to 2009 with a reservoir change in 05 +.

Keep that fine dealer in business.
 

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Miles of Smiles
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Discussion Starter #4
I agree John, very unusual for dealers to even let you into the workshop, never mind assist. You're probably right about the system terminology too, as the '06 is fully integral. Seems the trick in bleeding the control circuits is to know the correct sequence to loosen the 6 bleeders on the ABS motor. Wish I had a better memory ! But at least now I have seen it done, and it's not rocket science.
 

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Miles of Smiles
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Discussion Starter #6
simoncharles said:
Am I correct in saying that your bike has the same system as one manufactured in April 2005, i.e. with servo assisted linked brakes ?.
I think so, purchase date March '06. I believe that ABS pump had only a fairly short run as I find no info on either the '99 or later '04 BMW workshop CD's. Haven't got my Clymers with me, but will check when I can. Perhaps a supplement that I do not have. I have the BMW wiring schematic diagram too, but a supplement to cover the latter models with separate high /low headlight was issued. As soon as I see a photo of the top of the ABS pump body or reservoir I know if it's the same. Fluid level is monitored in the ABS reservoir, not in the reservoir behind. Infamous for causing the blinking ABS warning, cured by topping up the rear reservoir.
 

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All bikes manufactured after 1/1/2001 are integral brakes. My '01 was made in Sept, 2000 so I have ABS II for which I am grateful!

Loren

simoncharles said:
Am I correct in saying that your bike has the same system as one manufactured in April 2005, i.e. with servo assisted linked brakes ?.
 

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Hilton said:
Brake Flush ’06 LT ( ABS II )

You can do these 06 brakes with no special tools, ( see above ) but 3 people are needed.
Cheers
Great post! You can also do it by yourself with a few cheap tools and no speed bleeders.

Question to the forum:
I am tempted to do a video of my own and put it on youtube. My question is, would anyone object, like the guys who sell the videos? I dont want to step on anyone's toes and wonder what you guys think. It wouldn't be unti January though. Input welcome!
 

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Will take whetever visual help (even off youtube) we can get... especially for those of us not in the US with other "helpers" at hand.
I posted one about getting the EHCS off easily, 'cause it doesn't "seem" to be simple, but really is.
Go for it... ;-)

Au$0.02c (which almost worth $US.02 now... amazing)
 

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+ 1 on you tube video. We can do it here with my bike. I'll pop for the eats and drinks. After the new year works for me...
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,171 Posts
tonygret said:
Great post! You can also do it by yourself with a few cheap tools and no speed bleeders.

Question to the forum:
I am tempted to do a video of my own and put it on youtube. My question is, would anyone object, like the guys who sell the videos? I dont want to step on anyone's toes and wonder what you guys think. It wouldn't be unti January though. Input welcome!


Go for it Tony. No objections here. I was not "selling" them but rather accepted a donation to the CCR charity, less S & H.
 

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niel_petersen said:
I want to endorse John Z's video. It is very complete and well done. THX :wave
Actually, sitting here before me on the desk, is a list I am procuring for January, as well. I am just a tad overdue for my 24k. Speed bleeders, a vacuum pump, John's video, and pads are on the list. I will be watching this thread for input.............. :corn:
 

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You don't need a vacuum pump to do the LT. But if you need it for other things, I just did an aircraft vacuum bag fiberglass project using my air compressor intake as a vacuum source.
 

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niel_petersen said:
You don't need a vacuum pump to do the LT. But if you need it for other things, I just did an aircraft vacuum bag fiberglass project using my air compressor intake as a vacuum source.
Yeah, I bought a Harbor Freight one and it was essentially useless in this application. Printed out & followed JohnZ's method and worked like a charm. I did install speedbleeders and did the job by myself. Was very nervous, but went slow & steady, and a lot of rereading of John's method just to double & triple check myself. All is well.
 
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