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Discussion Starter #1
I took out my 2003 K1200LTC to get some gas. It was 45 degrees and I had the itch. On the way back my brake failure light and the caution triangle light began to alternate in the on position. Eventually, the triangle went out but the brake failure light continued to flash. I read the treads about brake fluid low and went ahead and fill the rear reservior almost to the top. Started the bike and the brake failure continued to flash on and off.

While on the center stand and started and put it into gear squeezed the front brakes and stepped on the rear brakes hoping for something. No luck. Getting desperate I disconnected the battery thinking maybe the Computer needed resetting. Assuming it has one. Only thing I got was a scare when I reconnected and the bike alarm went off on me.

So it's all back together sitting on the center stand and when I start it, the brake failure light comes on and flashes.

Any idea's

Bill
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Try driving it again it has to finish the self test (still) and the rolling test (checks sensors) before it will clear the fault. Is this what you have ?

Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 1Hz = ABS not available. Pull-away test not completed.
 

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jzeiler said:
Try driving it again it has to finish the self test (still) and the rolling test (checks sensors) before it will clear the fault. Is this what you have ?

Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 1Hz = ABS not available. Pull-away test not completed.
Hate to say it but from my experience (not LT) this could be a failed ABS unit $$$$$$$$$
 

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Ok so you filled one rear brake reservoir,
my 2002 LT had 2 rear brake reservoirs, right next to each other
did you fill both rear brake reservoirs?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yup, I fill both of those and even added some to the handle bar reservior.

I've got a set of brake pads on order now too. I've seen some posts where the light went out after pads were put in.

Even checked the brake light for any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
jzeiler said:
Try driving it again it has to finish the self test (still) and the rolling test (checks sensors) before it will clear the fault. Is this what you have ?

Gen OFF, ABS flashes at 1Hz = ABS not available. Pull-away test not completed.
Thanks, I'll take it out later today and see what happens.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #7
dadicool59 said:
Hate to say it but from my experience (not LT) this could be a failed ABS unit $$$$$$$$$
I'm not even thinking that way yet. It's only got 14,000 miles on it. I can hear all the servo noises and that brakes seem to work just fine. I wouldn't want to take it up 65 MPH and try to stop suddenly though.
 

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whejdak said:
I've seen some posts where the light went out after pads were put in. .
the reason the light goes out is because the new pads force the calipers open farther thus pushing to brake fluid BACK into the ABS reservoirs. So if you are certain the ABS reservoirs are full, the pads are not the answer.....
 
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Discussion Starter #9
SmokinJoe said:
the reason the light goes out is because the new pads force the calipers open farther thus pushing to brake fluid BACK into the ABS reservoirs. So if you are certain the ABS reservoirs are full, the pads are not the answer.....
I thought about that. I'm probably going to have to remove some break fluid now after replacing the pads. I hadn't thought of that before.

I was going to take it out today. Just before I decided to go. It hailed real hard here. Good thing to be patient.

I got to admit. Taking it out now with the brake failure light on makes me a little nervous.

Bill
 

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Mine was doing this before I changed the fluid, reservoirs were full, fluid was about 2 or 3 years old. I kept putting of the fluid change due to riding too much. Now that I changed it, all is good.
 

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LTExfisher said:
Had to replace my Battery before I solved similar situation.
+1. Picked up a $70 sealed battery from eBatteries.com. Solved the wig-wag.

HTH,
Jer
 

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Discussion Starter #13
jers99lt said:
+1. Picked up a $70 sealed battery from eBatteries.com. Solved the wig-wag.

HTH,
Jer
I don't understand why a new battery would fix the problem. I don't have to even tough the brakes (use them) and the light is on already. I'm going out today its pretty nice. I'll see if it resets like someone suggested. Pads probably won't solve the problem. My nearest dealer is about 40 miles away. I'd have to trailer the bike. I wouldn't trust driving with the brake light on for that distance.
I'm thinking about draining the fluid completely and replacing it. As far as I know, it's never been done. I bought the bike used about three years ago.
Bill
 

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I wouldn't worry about riding 40 miles to your dealer as log as the servo assist is working.. Well over 99% of all motorcycles do not have ABS brakes. If you need to stop suddenly you will need to revert to your old techniques. Don't lock up the wheels by grabbing a hand and foot full of brakes. You will do fine as long as the roads don't have sand, cinders, gravel, etc on them left over from ice mitigation if that is a factor where you live.

BTW, on the older bikes (mfg date before 001/01/2001) you don't even have to worry about the servo assist as they don't have assisted brakes.

Loren
 

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Discussion Starter #15
wa1200lt said:
I wouldn't worry about riding 40 miles to your dealer as log as the servo assist is working.. Well over 99% of all motorcycles do not have ABS brakes. If you need to stop suddenly you will need to revert to your old techniques. Don't lock up the wheels by grabbing a hand and foot full of brakes. You will do fine as long as the roads don't have sand, cinders, gravel, etc on them left over from ice mitigation if that is a factor where you live.

BTW, on the older bikes (mfg date before 001/01/2001) you don't even have to worry about the servo assist as they don't have assisted brakes.

Loren
Another interesting comment! I wondered about that too. While I was driving, everything seems fine.I thought to myself, that if there is no brake fluid leaking then the brakes still have to work somewhat. It can't be any worse then my R75/5. You can't even call those brakes. Thanks for the feedback.
 

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I dont know....I have been trying to solve brake pump problems on my 04. See my threads under my user name.

When my brakes/pump quit working...I have virtually NO brakes no matter how hard I squeeze or push on the controls. Usually if I pump the controls the brakes will return. Occasionally they will not and I "downshift/coast" to a stop. I then shut off the ignition, restart and they work again for a brief time.

I am only riding very familiar backroads at "safe" speeds while I try to hopefully find a cause and solution...if there is one...other than a $3,000 plus brake pump replacement.

Steve
 

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whejdak said:
I don't understand why a new battery would fix the problem.
Bill
After I started getting the wigwag brake lights that wouldn't go off I told my mechanic and started a search for ABS fault and wigwag. I took the error code off the test connector pin which read that the module was bad. I didn't want to go that route so I went with:

1) Mechanic said it could be the battery.
2) Many forum members stated their experience with a weak battery causing the fault.
3) Flushed the brake lines a few times.
4) The battery was suspect anyway due to age.

I went with the collective experience of the forum. Maybe someone here has a reason that as a battery wears out its voltage lowers and at some point it translates into an ABS fault.
Maybe the ABS piston is getting sticky/rusty and needs a stronger electrical push. I don't know for sure.

Regardless, it worked for me.

HTH,
Jer
 

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FOR THE GUYS WHO REPLACED THEIR BATTERIES.....were any of you getting actual brake failure...as in no braking at the calipers or were you just getting the warning lights on the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
loser said:
FOR THE GUYS WHO REPLACED THEIR BATTERIES.....were any of you getting actual brake failure...as in no braking at the calipers or were you just getting the warning lights on the dash?
Well I froze my you know what's but shortly after I took off, the flashing brake light went out. It has to be the lower fluid level in conjunction with a resetting of the electronics. As I mentioned, I disconnected my battery, then reconnected it. Perhaps this helped too. It also got me thinking about the guys who replaced batteries. Perhaps, it wasn't the battery, but the fact that the power was removed and then replaced. Just like a computer PC restart. Anyway, I don't know if its gone for good but the light is out for now. I'm just hoping that the next time I take it out it won't come back on again. But this whole thing got me thinking about getting that Dot 4 out of there and replenishing it with fresh brake fluid. So, it's probably going back to the dealer for that operation. I'm electrical not mechanical and I hate hydraulics.
Thanks everyone for the help.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I thought this was over. I just couldn't stand to not know if it was going to do it again the next time I rode. So, I pulled it out of the garage again. Started in neutral as usual and the brake light came on again and started flashing. So I took off with it, the brake light went out. Turned it off restarted brake light came on .... drove it brake light went out. I'm at a loss. This did trigger something in my mind and that is that since I bought the bike used. That brake light always came on and went out after I started driving it. So now it's back to where it was last year and the year before. I just thought that was natural and paid no attention. The thing that was different this year was the alternating between "Brake Failure" and the "Caution Triangle". That Triangle doesn't come on anymore.
It's like having a limp. Once you have it, you know how to deal with it. Moving on.

Bill
 
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