[myk_edwards]

Hi guys,

OK I've searched, and come up empty.

I've downloaded the BMW Integral ABS Systems Flushing and Bleeding 101 - Great Document, but am looking for a couple of other articles it refers too.

Item 11 - Filling adaptor - See Article:
BMW Integral ABS System - (the above doc?)
Wheel Circuit Filling Adaptor - Looks like a funnel to me, am I wrong?

Item 13 - Wooden Dummy New Brake Pad Blocks - Anyone got measurements, or is it two new pads + thickness of disk, less a mill or two?

Thanks Guys

Mike

 

[jzeiler]

Mike is your a late 2001, BMW on the front calipers? If so you are on the right track. If you have an early 2001 with Brembo on the calipers the flush is much simpler.

The filling adapter is on one of the front calipers and uses a short 10 mm bleeder after removing the grub screw. If you don't have this no problem. You don't need it. The funnel is not necessary as you can see the fluid level in the reservoirs just fine. It just makes it bit easier. I used an old plastic cutting board cut up to hold the caliper pistons back during the flush. I don't have the dimensions handy as I am on the road this week.

Ok I looked at the article again. It's a good one but not exactly LT. It shows a Brembo caliper but integral ABS unit. The LT did not use the Brembo marked caliper with the integral system. The fill adaptor they listed is just a funnel with a cap on it because the reservoirs in that system are on the ABS unit. You can't see the fluid level in those. Yours is at the rear of the bike on the right side. Two chambers, front half is shared between the rear wheel and rear control circuit. The rear half is only for the front wheel circuit.

 

[myk_edwards]

Thanks John,

I can work out the best size for the fake brake pads, large enough so I don't pop the pistons.

Mine was registered May 2001, and has the BMW Calipers. All I need now is some speed bleeders, some clear pipe, and an afternoon to do the job.

 

[jzeiler]

Mike I don't use speed bleeders but I do use their bag and hose. With the hose on and the bag elevated you just open the bleed port and pump away as no air can go down the hose. The bag and hose is just $6 us. It is still just a one man operation. Good luck.

 

[Voyager]

Hi guys,

OK I've searched, and come up empty.

I've downloaded the BMW Integral ABS Systems Flushing and Bleeding 101 - Great Document, but am looking for a couple of other articles it refers too.

Item 11 - Filling adaptor - See Article:
BMW Integral ABS System - (the above doc?)
Wheel Circuit Filling Adaptor - Looks like a funnel to me, am I wrong?

Item 13 - Wooden Dummy New Brake Pad Blocks - Anyone got measurements, or is it two new pads + thickness of disk, less a mill or two?

Thanks Guys

Mike

You can buy the funnel from Beemerboneyard and I bought the Speed bleeder bag from Racer Parts Wholesale. I wish one of htem sold both items, but last I checked they didn't. The shipping for the bag is more than the cost of the bag, but is sure was helpful. I didn't buy the speed bleeders themselves as I don't really see a need for them.

My wife pumps the brakes for me, but I could have done it myself if required. It is just easier with two people even with the bag.

As for the dummy blocks, I pushed the pistons in using an automotive caliper tool I already had. I then measured and just cut off a piece of 2x4 so that it was a snug fit. I think I endedup being about 7/8" thick. I didn't see a need to make two blocks for each caliper as one thick one worked fine and I hung the calipers with bent coat hangars so I didn't need to place them back over the rotors. Once I got the thickness correct, I had to cut maybe 1/2" off one end of the 2x4 pieces so it ended up being the nominal 1.5" by maybe 3" rather than the standard 3.5" nominal for a 2x4.

Most people recommend hardwood blocks, but I had only pine available. There is not that much pressure exerted on the blocks assuming you don't hold the brakes on hard with the bleed valve closed. And mine were cut so that the grain was perpendicur to the piston faces and even softwood is pretty strong when the force is aligned with the grain which is the case the way I cut my blocks. If you want a picture of mine, just drop me a PM with your email address. But mine are stupidly simple. I did find that the block that fit snugly in the rear caliper was a touch too thick for the front so I had to make the front ones slightly thinner than the rear.

 

[jzeiler]

Again Mike you really don't need the funnel since you can easily monitor the fluid levels in the reservoirs.

Cheers!

 

[myk_edwards]

You can buy the funnel from Beemerboneyard and I bought the Speed bleeder bag from Racer Parts Wholesale. I wish one of htem sold both items, but last I checked they didn't. The shipping for the bag is more than the cost of the bag, but is sure was helpful. I didn't buy the speed bleeders themselves as I don't really see a need for them.

I see, the funnel is a specialist bit of kit. $34.00 seem a little steep for a bit of plastic. I might show the picture to a buddy of mine, I'm sure he will fabricate something for me. Must be able to get one of those covers from a UK store or BMW.

 

[Voyager]

I see, the funnel is a specialist bit of kit. $34.00 seem a little steep for a bit of plastic. I might show the picture to a buddy of mine, I'm sure he will fabricate something for me. Must be able to get one of those covers from a UK store or BMW.

Yes, I thought so also until I saw the price BMW wanted for just the plastic cap! $46.64, although from the fiche it appears that gets you both caps and the vent hose so you could make two funnels from that. It seemed easier to me to just buy the BBY part.

I am sure you can do the job without it, but it really speeds the process when you can fill the funnel nearly full, open the bleed valve and just push enough fluid through in a hurry to complete flush the system. No need to keep an eagle eye on the reservoir and stop several times to refill it.

 

[Rocketsled]

I dunno bout YOUR bike, but on MY bike, that damn funnel only worked on one reservoir! Sure, it was great on the back circuit, but there was this big FRAMELIKE thing in the way for the front circuit!

 

[jzeiler]

Cut the funnel about 1/2inch above the cap and slip some 3/8( I think ) Tygon tubing on it. The it will flex enough to clear the frame rail and you won't have to remove the big panel.

 

[Voyager]

I dunno bout YOUR bike, but on MY bike, that damn funnel only worked on one reservoir! Sure, it was great on the back circuit, but there was this big FRAMELIKE thing in the way for the front circuit!

Same problem here. I knew about that from reading other posts here and bought some fuel like to make the funnel flexible. I couldn't find clear tygon tubing locally as John used, but some fuel like worked in a pinch. I could still see an inch or so of the clear funnel below the black fuel line so I cold still watch the level go down into the eservoir to set the level to remove the funnel. I will buy some tygon before next time as the fuel line was a little still still.

 

[djthompson43]

For me, a couple of shims (the type used to shim windows and doors during installation) made of a composite material worked well in holding the pistons apart. Insert into the caliper from opposite directions and squeeze them together until snug. Purchased from HD or Lowes!

 

[Rocketsled]

For me, a couple of shims (the type used to shim windows and doors during installation) made of a composite material worked well in holding the pistons apart. Insert into the caliper from opposite directions and squeeze them together until snug. Purchased from HD or Lowes!

I used a piece of 0.25" aluminum plate...course, the average garage (or Lowes for that matter), doesn't have that on-hand.