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What year is your bike including the date of manufacture? Find this stuff by lifting the driver seat and looking close to the battery The solution might be MUCH simpler and cost you nothing!

Loren
 

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mioffroader said:
Was wondering if anyone on here had any experience with this thing, I was looking at it as a way to improve off-idle throttle response on hot days. Reading his theory it seems plausible, but who really know. I guess if nobody here has tried one maybe I'll be the test dummy!

http://www.boosterplug.com/shop/boosterplug-bmw-k1200lt-203p.html
If you have an older LT, this will NOT solve the >86F, low rpm stumble.

As I understand it, this is a device which alters the O2 sensor signal sent to the Moronic computer, effectively "tricking" the Moronic into making the mixture more rich. Possibly useful on the pre-'04 single-plug R11xx bikes, but a waste of $$ on an LT.

The hot day stumble is due to a quirk in the firmware of the Moronic. The earlier bikes were provided with firmware which (to the rider, unexpectedly) retards the ignition timing several degrees when the ambient temperature is over 86F, the rpms are low, and there's a lod on the engine -- the idea being that in these conditions, with really crappy fuel, the retarding reduces the chance for pinging. The problem of course, is that retarding timing reduces power output, so the rider gets surprised when the bike does not produce the expected amount of power for a given twist of the wrist. The boosterplug device does nothing for this.

BTW, there is a fix for the hot load issue -- a search on "hesitiation" and "retard" should return a number of threads on this.
 

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mneblett said:
If you have an older LT, this will NOT solve the >86F, low rpm stumble.

As I understand it, this is a device which alters the O2 sensor signal sent to the Moronic computer, effectively "tricking" the Moronic into making the mixture more rich. Possibly useful on the pre-'04 single-plug R11xx bikes, but a waste of $$ on an LT.

The hot day stumble is due to a quirk in the firmware of the Moronic. The earlier bikes were provided with firmware which (to the rider, unexpectedly) retards the ignition timing several degrees when the ambient temperature is over 86F, the rpms are low, and there's a lod on the engine -- the idea being that in these conditions, with really crappy fuel, the retarding reduces the chance for pinging. The problem of course, is that retarding timing reduces power output, so the rider gets surprised when the bike does not produce the expected amount of power for a given twist of the wrist. The boosterplug device does nothing for this.

BTW, there is a fix for the hot load issue -- a search on "hesitiation" and "retard" should return a number of threads on this.
I realize this is somewhat old thread, but I have a 2007 LT that has pretty bad hesitation when starting out on a hot day. My understanding is that the 07 model year no longer has the brown wire to cut. Also, my problem seemed to get a lot worse when I could no longer buy anything but E10 fuel. My understanding is that the BoosterPlug does not trick the oxygen sensor, but rather tricks the airbox temperature sensor into thinking the temp is 20 degrees colder than it actually is effectively increasing the mixture richness by about 6%. I suspect this may help a lot with hesitation induced by E10 at the warmer temps (I notice it mostly above 80 degrees or so, but sometimes even at cooler temps).

This device does not affect the engine timing directly, but from what I have read the retarding of the ignition timing only occurs at higher temps so by making the bike think it is running in cooler temps, this should effectively forestall the algorithm that retards the timing.

So, has anyone tried this on an LT, particularly a later model like my 2007? Also, the BoosterPlug web site suggests that this can be installed on an LT with only removal of the left fairing panel. However, in perusing my Clymer manual suggests much more effort than that including removal of much the tupperware, the seat bridge and partial removal of the fuel tank (slide it back some). Has anyone done this installation who can confirm how big a job it was?
 

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No booster plug experience here, eh? :)
 

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No booster plug experience, but I'll agree with the hesitation caused by E10. Got quite bad for me.
At least I was able to go back to premium unleaded 95 over here, that fixed the hesitation.
 

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cws said:
No booster plug experience, but I'll agree with the hesitation caused by E10. Got quite bad for me.
At least I was able to go back to premium unleaded 95 over here, that fixed the hesitation.
Unfortunately, thanks to our idiotic government here in the states, I don't have that as an option. I would burn avgas if it wasn't leaded and thus poison to the catcon.

I am more than willing to pay $150 for the BoosterPlug if there is a reasonable chance it will help address the E10 induced hesitation, but I hate to throw good money down the drain if there is no chance of this device helping.
 

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Voyager said:
Unfortunately, thanks to our idiotic government here in the states, I don't have that as an option. I would burn avgas if it wasn't leaded and thus poison to the catcon.

I am more than willing to pay $150 for the BoosterPlug if there is a reasonable chance it will help address the E10 induced hesitation, but I hate to throw good money down the drain if there is no chance of this device helping.
Go to puregas.org and see if you can locate a service station that sells ethanol free fuel.
 

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Funnily enough, I am holding a mates F800GS for sale since he's gone back to the States... he has a similar device (Wuka King (HighTech *******) Power Controller) installed which is basically the same thing.
He swore that it helped his GS when the temps got hotter.... the switch has a "cold" and "hot" position, I think hot is for temps above 30 deg C.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=720287
 

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6speedTi said:
Go to puregas.org and see if you can locate a service station that sells ethanol free fuel.

BTDT. The nearest station in my home state of PA is more than 100 miles away. There is a closer station in NY, but that is 25 or so miles away. Not really good for a bike with 300 mile range when you have to use 20% of a tank just to go to the gas station and back.
 

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I have a Booster Plug. I don't have the stumble or hesitation at hot temps as described. I bought the bike with it installed so I do not have any other reference or experience. It mustr be doing something, right? LOL, since it was there, I'll leave it there, not hurting anything.
 

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ColoradoGrant said:
I have a Booster Plug. I don't have the stumble or hesitation at hot temps as described. I bought the bike with it installed so I do not have any other reference or experience. It mustr be doing something, right? LOL, since it was there, I'll leave it there, not hurting anything.
Do you run ethanol polluted fuel? E10 or worse?
 

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The booster plugs will make a difference. You must understand that they only help during acceleration when the motor is running on the pre-programmed fuel map. This is known as open loop operation. The motor controller looks at engine temperature, air intake temperature, rpm, etc. and assigns a pre-determined fuel delivery and timing based upon those variables. The booster plug simply fools the fuel map into think it is about 20 degrees cooler outside so it indirectly enriches the mixture.

While you are cruising down the road the fuel map is determined by the O2 sensor which adjusts the mixture based upon the amount of oxygen it sees in the exhaust. The booster plugs do nothing when the engine is operating in closed loop mode. So, will they help? Yes, but not all the time.
 

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deanwoolsey said:
The booster plugs will make a difference. You must understand that they only help during acceleration when the motor is running on the pre-programmed fuel map. This is known as open loop operation. The motor controller looks at engine temperature, air intake temperature, rpm, etc. and assigns a pre-determined fuel delivery and timing based upon those variables. The booster plug simply fools the fuel map into think it is about 20 degrees cooler outside so it indirectly enriches the mixture.

While you are cruising down the road the fuel map is determined by the O2 sensor which adjusts the mixture based upon the amount of oxygen it sees in the exhaust. The booster plugs do nothing when the engine is operating in closed loop mode. So, will they help? Yes, but not all the time.
Shouldn't disconnecting the intake air sensor make exactly same effect? At least when operating above 86F?

A comment for that E10-"hesitation". Might of course be bike specific differences (or model year) but I must say your "ass-dyno" is really a sensitive one if you really notice a difference between pure gas and E10. My subjective experience when having compared all here available (pure gas 95, 98E5 and 95E10) gas types is that even though I would like to see a difference - simply can't.

Multiple tests (also independent ones) have proven likewise. There is a small difference but under normal circumstances it should not be noticeable.

So RU sure we are not talking about >86F hesitation?
 

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For less than half the price of the Booster Plug, you can get exactly the same components, which perform in exactly the same way, under exactly the same theory, and seems to be of better quality construction by the purchase of Marc Vernact's product, called the 'Accelerator Module,' It, too is made in the Netherlands (Belgium, to be precise) and costs, for the extended-probe version, 45 euros. (Translates to about 60-some Dollars). It can be found here:

http://www.sol2.be/Performance/ENG/Home/index.html

and Marc is really good about answering your questions via email. Don't forget the time difference. Just throwing it out there as an alternative.
 

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deanwoolsey said:
The booster plugs will make a difference. You must understand that they only help during acceleration when the motor is running on the pre-programmed fuel map. This is known as open loop operation. The motor controller looks at engine temperature, air intake temperature, rpm, etc. and assigns a pre-determined fuel delivery and timing based upon those variables. The booster plug simply fools the fuel map into think it is about 20 degrees cooler outside so it indirectly enriches the mixture.

While you are cruising down the road the fuel map is determined by the O2 sensor which adjusts the mixture based upon the amount of oxygen it sees in the exhaust. The booster plugs do nothing when the engine is operating in closed loop mode. So, will they help? Yes, but not all the time.
Yes, between reading the web site and corresponding with Jens, I have a good understanding of how it should work. My hesitation is only when starting out from a stop. Once rolling, I don't really notice the problem.
 

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C-A-D said:
Shouldn't disconnecting the intake air sensor make exactly same effect? At least when operating above 86F?

A comment for that E10-"hesitation". Might of course be bike specific differences (or model year) but I must say your "ass-dyno" is really a sensitive one if you really notice a difference between pure gas and E10. My subjective experience when having compared all here available (pure gas 95, 98E5 and 95E10) gas types is that even though I would like to see a difference - simply can't.

Multiple tests (also independent ones) have proven likewise. There is a small difference but under normal circumstances it should not be noticeable.

So RU sure we are not talking about >86F hesitation?
Am I sure it is due to E10? No, I can't say that. I do only notice the problem in warm weather once the engine is warmed up so temperature is definitely one factor. However, I don't recall it being super noticeable until a couple of years ago when I could no longer buy real gas. The first 3 years I had the bike, I don't recall it being a real issue. The last couple of years have been very bad. The bike hesitates so badly it will stall if I am not really easy with the clutch or rev to 2,000+ RPM which is just not right for a sedate start on level pavement! The bike bogs very badly as soon as the clutch begins to engage and opening the throttle further has almost no effect until I pull the clutch in a little and let the RPM build. It is like the bike all of the sudden has only 2 HP.

For $150, it is probably worth taking a chance that it might work. If it does solve the problem, it is worth $150 without question! I just had not heard from anyone who had used it on a post 2005 LT. All of the web site testimonials were from older LTs.
 
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