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First Mod I did on my all of my BMW's was the booster plug. It greatly improves the idle and throttle response through out the entire range. And no the ecm can't relearn anything. The booster plug lies to the ecm telling it the intake air temp is 20 degrees C cooler then it actually is, making the ecm put 6% more fuel into the mix. I know this because I'm getting 6% less MPG and I have 18K on my bike and it runs way better then the stock arrangement.
 

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'21 R1250RT
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And no the ecm can't relearn anything
WRONG. AGAIN. Been through this with you before IIRC.

Do you know what is the last check the ECU does in the chain of mixture control?

Exhaust gas oxygen content. The oxygen sensor will tell the ECU the ACTUAL values, the values that will be 6 (or whatever) percent richer than the bike expects, according to the factory programmed fuel tables.

Guess what does the ECU do next? It will conclude that there is a fault with your temperature sensor and starts changing the mixture (i.e. dial out that 6%) to bring it to where it supposed to be according to the factory fuel tables, based on readings taken by the oxygen sensor. This happens over several tanks of fuel, so you will not notice the difference because it is gradual.

Because of this process that you can investigate yourself, (don't just take my word for it) ANYTHING you do BEFORE the exhaust gas check will be dialled out over time. It is a FACT, you don't have to like it.

This is why the only two methods that can be used long term with our bikes are oxygen sensor modifiers or re-writing the fuel tables, i.e. re-map.

Do yourself a favour and research it so you don't make yourself look like a fool again...
 

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Gary, I happen to own an Innova Electronics Bluetooth OBD Scan Tool Dongle. Looks like I just need to buy the adapter cable and software.

Where would I find the port on my baby girl (Betty Beemer) and what am I looking at to get to it?

Thanks again!
On a 2014 it is the round plug next to the battery. Yes you will need an adapter. I use the Motoscan software and it works for me. It is for android only or was when I downloaded it. Others swear by the gs911.

lots of good info on boxflyers service video On YouTube. At 52,000 miles check everything!!
 

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WRONG. AGAIN. Been through this with you before IIRC.

Do you know what is the last check the ECU does in the chain of mixture control?

Exhaust gas oxygen content. The oxygen sensor will tell the ECU the ACTUAL values, the values that will be 6 (or whatever) percent richer than the bike expects, according to the factory programmed fuel tables.

Guess what does the ECU do next? It will conclude that there is a fault with your temperature sensor and starts changing the mixture (i.e. dial out that 6%) to bring it to where it supposed to be according to the factory fuel tables, based on readings taken by the oxygen sensor. This happens over several tanks of fuel, so you will not notice the difference because it is gradual.

Because of this process that you can investigate yourself, (don't just take my word for it) ANYTHING you do BEFORE the exhaust gas check will be dialled out over time. It is a FACT, you don't have to like it.

This is why the only two methods that can be used long term with our bikes are oxygen sensor modifiers or re-writing the fuel tables, i.e. re-map.

Do yourself a favour and research it so you don't make yourself look like a fool again...
Well I must have a pretty stupid ECM because it hasn't learned anything. When I first picked up the bike I did a little test with MPG values and setting the cruise at 60 MPH i would get 51/52 MPG. Now with the booster plug installed 18K later when I set the cruise control at 60 MPH I get 47/48 MPG. Where's the extra fuel going?
 

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Where's the extra fuel going?
Like I said, please do your research.

As far as MPG is concerned, your only accurate method of measure is to brim the tank at every fill and record your mileage. I do not believe (could not find any information on it) that the RT ECU counts the fuel amount going through the injectors and uses that data to work out your consumption. The only bike I ever had that measured injector output was a Honda NC750. It was accurate to within two decimal points (measured in litres) of what the tank accepted at the next refill.

For comparison MPG you have to add the human factor in different style riding, top it with different terrain between tanks and it becomes pretty hopeless attempt to get an accurate MPG figure over a number of tanks. You could get close if you did the same commute week in, week out and kept records...

I believe the ECU generated MPG is really just an educated guess, not a certified measurement. I mean you own a BMW motorcycle, right? Fuel consumption should be trivial if at all considered ;) Otherwise you may be riding the wrong brand :D
 

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wow too scary to reply to this post! But I did install a booster plug on my 2014. Much more smoothness on the throttle and slightly better response overall.
Had it for 2 years now. Maybe I will unplug it to feel any difference or not? Waiting to get bike back from service. 85k on the clock. Also decatted it. If that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
First Mod I did on my all of my BMW's was the booster plug. It greatly improves the idle and throttle response through out the entire range. And no the ecm can't relearn anything. The booster plug lies to the ecm telling it the intake air temp is 20 degrees C cooler then it actually is, making the ecm put 6% more fuel into the mix. I know this because I'm getting 6% less MPG and I have 18K on my bike and it runs way better then the stock arrangement.
Interesting. Thanks SvFiat!
Like I said, please do your research.

As far as MPG is concerned, your only accurate method of measure is to brim the tank at every fill and record your mileage. I do not believe (could not find any information on it) that the RT ECU counts the fuel amount going through the injectors and uses that data to work out your consumption. The only bike I ever had that measured injector output was a Honda NC750. It was accurate to within two decimal points (measured in litres) of what the tank accepted at the next refill.

For comparison MPG you have to add the human factor in different style riding, top it with different terrain between tanks and it becomes pretty hopeless attempt to get an accurate MPG figure over a number of tanks. You could get close if you did the same commute week in, week out and kept records...

I believe the ECU generated MPG is really just an educated guess, not a certified measurement. I mean you own a BMW motorcycle, right? Fuel consumption should be trivial if at all considered ;) Otherwise you may be riding the wrong brand :D
I would caution against filling tank to brim. I got close on 1st fill (for me) and smelled gas for days. Service Manager said he fills his (non Beemer) till auto shut off shuts off and does not top off. Said he never smells gas from overfill canister filter.

Just my experience and what I was told...
 

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Like I said, please do your research.
For comparison MPG you have to add the human factor in different style riding, top it with different terrain between tanks and it becomes pretty hopeless attempt to get an accurate MPG figure over a number of tanks. You could get close if you did the same commute week in, week out and kept records...

I believe the ECU generated MPG is really just an educated guess, not a certified measurement. I mean you own a BMW motorcycle, right? Fuel consumption should be trivial if at all considered ;) Otherwise you may be riding the wrong brand :D
Wow you really like to hear yourself talk. Human factor and riding style don't come into play when your on a flat straight road using the CC at the same speed every test. Down here in Florida we have roads that go for 10 miles in a dead straight flat line. Oh I forgot maybe I have to figure in the curvature of the earth with the tests. And then going after the expense of fuel factor as a last resort. I never even hinted at the fact that the loss MPG was a concern, it was just a way to compare pre and after booster plug installation. I did these MPG tests just to see if the booster plug actually worked as advertised and guess what, "IT DOES". I lost about 6% MPG which accounts for the 6% added fuel from the booster plug. The plus side is a smoother idle, much easier acceleration control from a stop, and much better throttle response when in a power commanding situation like 60 to 120 MPH to pass 5 or 6 cars in a heart beat. As for my riding style according to the BMW connected app, somewhere along my ride the Max acceleration always gets up to .8 or .9 G's and because I don't ever get in a panic situation my Max deceleration is a constant -.5 G's. And there's always a Max speed in the triple digits somewhere in my rides. My MPG is constant 43.7 , I'm done, you believe what you want and I'll stick with the hardened facts and numbers that back it up...........................
 

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There is no known issue requiring a silly booster plug. Don't fall for marketing hype. I would suggest you examine some basic mechanical issues and get the bike running as it was intended. I think I saw you stated it has 52K on the bike, which is enough to start needing some maintenance. You have no idea what previous owners did, either.

First, understand that the RT has very tall gearing. You need to give it a lot more throttle in first gear than you probably think, otherwise you'll be lugging or stalling the engine. Riders new to the RT often find a period of adjustment in this regard. Second, if the bike is truly running rough at idle or just off idle, there are a number of items to check. A vacuum leak would be a likely candidate, so pull the fairings and check for loose rubber around the throttle bodies or other potential vacuum leaks. You can sync the throttle bodies either manually or with a GS-911 scan tool. The latter will also give you information about any error codes stored and will allow you to look at the live data. If the live data shows one cylinder making significant adjustments in fuel trim over the other side or if you see O2 sensor data which is
out of line or lazy then those sensors can be checked with a meter. There is also a phone app called motoscan which will give you some of this data if you prefer. There is a throttle position sensor which can be calibrated and which can fail by providing the ECU with data drop outs that confuse the computer. That can be checked with the GS-911 too. Ignition issues are another possibility and the coils can be checked on the primary windings but not the secondary windings. Check these sorts of basic things before you go spending money on gimmicks. If you are not mechanically inclined find an independent local shop instead. Any competent mechanic would be checking these items as a matter of course.
 

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Gary, I happen to own an Innova Electronics Bluetooth OBD Scan Tool Dongle. Looks like I just need to buy the adapter cable and software.

Where would I find the port on my baby girl (Betty Beemer) and what am I looking at to get to it?

Thanks again!
It is beneath the black triangle cover on the right side.
 
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WRONG. AGAIN. Been through this with you before IIRC.

Do you know what is the last check the ECU does in the chain of mixture control?

Exhaust gas oxygen content. The oxygen sensor will tell the ECU the ACTUAL values, the values that will be 6 (or whatever) percent richer than the bike expects, according to the factory programmed fuel tables.

Guess what does the ECU do next? It will conclude that there is a fault with your temperature sensor and starts changing the mixture (i.e. dial out that 6%) to bring it to where it supposed to be according to the factory fuel tables, based on readings taken by the oxygen sensor. This happens over several tanks of fuel, so you will not notice the difference because it is gradual.

Because of this process that you can investigate yourself, (don't just take my word for it) ANYTHING you do BEFORE the exhaust gas check will be dialled out over time. It is a FACT, you don't have to like it.

This is why the only two methods that can be used long term with our bikes are oxygen sensor modifiers or re-writing the fuel tables, i.e. re-map.

Do yourself a favour and research it so you don't make yourself look like a fool again...
You could have expressed yourself in a kinder way. Not being so freaking rude !
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
There is no known issue requiring a silly booster plug. Don't fall for marketing hype. I would suggest you examine some basic mechanical issues and get the bike running as it was intended. I think I saw you stated it has 52K on the bike, which is enough to start needing some maintenance. You have no idea what previous owners did, either.

First, understand that the RT has very tall gearing. You need to give it a lot more throttle in first gear than you probably think, otherwise you'll be lugging or stalling the engine. Riders new to the RT often find a period of adjustment in this regard. Second, if the bike is truly running rough at idle or just off idle, there are a number of items to check. A vacuum leak would be a likely candidate, so pull the fairings and check for loose rubber around the throttle bodies or other potential vacuum leaks. You can sync the throttle bodies either manually or with a GS-911 scan tool. The latter will also give you information about any error codes stored and will allow you to look at the live data. If the live data shows one cylinder making significant adjustments in fuel trim over the other side or if you see O2 sensor data which is
out of line or lazy then those sensors can be checked with a meter. There is also a phone app called motoscan which will give you some of this data if you prefer. There is a throttle position sensor which can be calibrated and which can fail by providing the ECU with data drop outs that confuse the computer. That can be checked with the GS-911 too. Ignition issues are another possibility and the coils can be checked on the primary windings but not the secondary windings. Check these sorts of basic things before you go spending money on gimmicks. If you are not mechanically inclined find an independent local shop instead. Any competent mechanic would be checking these items as a matter of course.
Thanks painter. I have the Innova Bluetooth OBDC scan tool. Will be buying the BMW interface cable. Just ordered a service manual. Not sure how much I am capable of doing. Wondering how tough pulling plastics off will be. Will try to find an independent who will work on a newer Beemer. I do live in Milwaukee, after all! Only Motorrad dealer is booking beyond mid-July now. Hence my desire for a quick fix. Suggested Sea Foam did help.

I actually find she pulls well from about 2,500 on. 3.5K+ she is really strong. Off idle getting better. I once told my Cousin he was lugging a vintage 2002 sedan in 3rd gear at about 20 mph. He looked at me, said "yeah, watch this" put her in 5th and she was just fine!

Mostly amazing machines!
It is beneath the black triangle cover on the right side.
😀
 
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