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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi! Glad to be here!

Just got a 2014 R1200RT! I am a bit upset with idle issues and no way (short of reprogramming computer) to fix it.

I stalled bike at first stop light "take off" from red after taking delivery. Thought it was because I haven't ridden in years, was a bit rusty and generally sucked! Need to get idle up to about 1,200 to get going smoothly and still experience uneven firing (out of synch like) firing off idle/advanced idle.

Turns out (I now believe) this is caused by a too-lean fuel mixture caused by EPA emissions requirements. My symptoms are idle about 150-200 RPM lower than I would like / think it should be (just over 1,000 where ~1,200 seems more appropriate) , rough/uneven acceleration from idle (throttle bodies out of synch) and easy stalling trying to get going from a stop.

I now understand this is a known and common issue which the $169, Booster Plug claims to fix. Quick and easy installation once you get the right side body work off.

Anyone have any experience with removing required components, installing and using this device? It got a great video review by the guys at Motorcycle Parts Warehouse.

Thanks!
 

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First thing is to run some Techron or SeaFoam through it. Then have a careful valve clearance check along with a very careful cam timing job done. Having the cams off a few degrees contributes to what you are describing.
Your reluctor and cam mark need to match like this at TDC on left cylinder.
 

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here is the photo, not the marks line up at the bottom of the groove, not in the middle or up.
Automotive tire Font Auto part Automotive wheel system Rim

There are dealers out there that do not have the tools to do the cam timing properly, ASK if they do.
 

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'21 R1250RT
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Need to get idle up to about 1,200
No need, trust me, a little practice will get you there, especially after an extended time off bikes...

It's a can of worms, mostly because people don't understand how these bikes work, but here it goes. The booster plug type devices (temperature modifiers) will not work long term. You will get an initial boost, but the ECU will "un-learn" that within a few tankfuls of riding. The booster plug induced lower temperature readings will indeed initiate a higher fuel mix, but because the final check point in the system is the oxygen sensor, your artificially high mix will be detected and compensated for, no matter what the outside air temperature is said to be by the booster plug. It is just a matter of time for the fuel tables to be filled in and the effect eliminated. People tend to think they work because there is an initial change, but due to how long it takes to cancel the effect, they don't notice it.

Two things work permanently. Remap the ECU or use oxygen sensor modifiers that tell the ECU your choice of air fuel mix. I used a pair on a hexhead myself with great success. For your water cooled RT check with Beemer Boneyard for what you need exactly. They sell the version I used. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you for the great reply. Makes perfect sense. While I love just about everything about this bike vs. a couple of older Beemers I have owned... I do miss the large plastic multi-pointed idle adjustment knob on the old ones!

So given how smart the bike is... why doesn't it learn (based on what I have to do to launch successfully) that the idle is too low and it needs to come up?!?
 

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So given how smart the bike is... why doesn't it learn (based on what I have to do to launch successfully) that the idle is too low and it needs to come up?!?
Well, because it not quite that smart. I have a '21 RT. When you shift into gear, there is a 200 RPM increase in idle, so the concern was noted and acted on by the BMW engineers. Maybe they didn't think of including that on the first gen water cooled bikes or had no spare capacity in the ECU, I can't say.

What I do know is that most if not all the bikes I have owned, needed a slightly different approach to get them off the line from one another. Pretty sure you will get used to the issues and adapt your riding to make up for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
First thing is to run some Techron or SeaFoam through it. Then have a careful valve clearance check along with a very careful cam timing job done. Having the cams off a few degrees contributes to what you are describing.
Your reluctor and cam mark need to match like this at TDC on left cylinder.
Thanks beech. I will try Seafoam first. Have had mixed results with it. Saved a riding mower I accidentally put really stale gas in - gas I intended for HazMat recycling. Worked at first. Later NSM. Probably not a fair test.

What exactly do you think that will fix?

I appreciate the photo and tech tips. My only local dealer is now taking service appointments for Mid July. Next closest probably 2 hours away. Looking for a quicker and hopefully cheaper fix. I am not up to such service myself.
 

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Hi! Glad to be here!

Just got a 2014 R1200RT! I am a bit upset with idle issues and no way (short of reprogramming computer) to fix it.

I stalled bike at first stop light "take off" from red after taking delivery. Thought it was because I haven't ridden in years, was a bit rusty and generally sucked! Need to get idle up to about 1,200 to get going smoothly and still experience uneven firing (out of synch like) firing off idle/advanced idle.

Turns out (I now believe) this is caused by a too-lean fuel mixture caused by EPA emissions requirements. My symptoms are idle about 150-200 RPM lower than I would like / think it should be (just over 1,000 where ~1,200 seems more appropriate) , rough/uneven acceleration from idle (throttle bodies out of synch) and easy stalling trying to get going from a stop.

I now understand this is a known and common issue which the $169, Booster Plug claims to fix. Quick and easy installation once you get the right side body work off.

Anyone have any experience with removing required components, installing and using this device? It got a great video review by the guys at Motorcycle Parts Warehouse.

Thanks!
The Booster plug will help only temporarily. The computer will eventually adapt to it. DAMHIK
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
$379 is for the pair and you get a 10% discount if you're a MOA member. I added these over the winter to my 2018 RT and after 1k I've been very pleased with the results.
Thanks hwyhound. Yeah, I got the pair thing. I just meant as compared to the $169 Booster Plug or $199 for bikes that only require one $199 O2 sensor modifier, prices keep climbing. 10% discount helps!
The Booster plug will help only temporarily. The computer will eventually adapt to it. DAMHIK
Thanks. I know that now. Love your tag line!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Let us know how it works out. Getting to factory blue print engine specs to start at base line before adding things is my personal opinion.
Certainly makes sense! Just trying to do what I can now. Waiting until mid-July for my local dealer to look at it is not a very exciting prospect! They were, however, able to confirm there are no open recalls or service campaigns on the bike. I guess that's something!
 

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Looks like it's this guy:

"AF-XiED"
AF-XiED For LIQUID COOLED BMW R1200 BIKES - O2 Sensor Manipulator


Yeah, but the damn things work great!! I got tired of my bike stalling at any opportunity and got off my rear and installed a pair of them, then after a few hundred miles Finally all is much much better with my off-idle operation not to mention a MUCH better lower-to mid range throttle.

Pricey yes, but I lived with a piss-poor tuned BMW from the mother ship for 3 years till I invested in the AF-XiED then simply the issue went away...
FYI, if youre going down this path for a better running '14-'19 RT buy the optional extra long cables to install them under the rear passenger seat, otherwise they gotta live zip tied to the throttle bodies. 🏆
 

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Hi! Glad to be here!

Just got a 2014 R1200RT! I am a bit upset with idle issues and no way (short of reprogramming computer) to fix it.

I stalled bike at first stop light "take off" from red after taking delivery. Thought it was because I haven't ridden in years, was a bit rusty and generally sucked! Need to get idle up to about 1,200 to get going smoothly and still experience uneven firing (out of synch like) firing off idle/advanced idle.

Turns out (I now believe) this is caused by a too-lean fuel mixture caused by EPA emissions requirements. My symptoms are idle about 150-200 RPM lower than I would like / think it should be (just over 1,000 where ~1,200 seems more appropriate) , rough/uneven acceleration from idle (throttle bodies out of synch) and easy stalling trying to get going from a stop.

I now understand this is a known and common issue which the $169, Booster Plug claims to fix. Quick and easy installation once you get the right side body work off.

Anyone have any experience with removing required components, installing and using this device? It got a great video review by the guys at Motorcycle Parts Warehouse.

Thanks!
are you sure that all coils are working, maybe one is week, use a coil on sparkplug tester, thats how my 2010 vibration started, the lower coil was week i replaced it and all was fine.
 

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MLW

You did not state when your bike has been serviced last (by dealer or owner) or how many miles are on the bike.

Very First thing to do before adding aftermarket gizmos is to make sure everything is to spec. Valve clearance, check cams for wear check the cam timing, Sparkplugs are heavy wear items and should be replaced as specified every 12,000 miles. Coolant, and oil also.

Is the exhaust flap opening and closing properly? Is the air-filter clean. Lots of things to check first. .

Make sure no codes are showing. You might try motoscan which is downloadable app for our bikes or a gs911 code reader. Or maybe, god forbid take it to the dealer.

I have not heard of a low rpm problem on the lc r bikes. I does take some rpms to get going, This takes a little practice to get that right.

Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
MLW

You did not state when your bike has been serviced last (by dealer or owner) or how many miles are on the bike.

Very First thing to do before adding aftermarket gizmos is to make sure everything is to spec. Valve clearance, check cams for wear check the cam timing, Sparkplugs are heavy wear items and should be replaced as specified every 12,000 miles. Coolant, and oil also.

Is the exhaust flap opening and closing properly? Is the air-filter clean. Lots of things to check first. .

Make sure no codes are showing. You might try motoscan which is downloadable app for our bikes or a gs911 code reader. Or maybe, god forbid take it to the dealer.

MLW

You did not state when your bike has been serviced last (by dealer or owner) or how many miles are on the bike.

Very First thing to do before adding aftermarket gizmos is to make sure everything is to spec. Valve clearance, check cams for wear check the cam timing, Sparkplugs are heavy wear items and should be replaced as specified every 12,000 miles. Coolant, and oil also.

Is the exhaust flap opening and closing properly? Is the air-filter clean. Lots of things to check first. .

Make sure no codes are showing. You might try motoscan which is downloadable app for our bikes or a gs911 code reader. Or maybe, god forbid take it to the dealer.

I have not heard of a low rpm problem on the lc r bikes. I does take some rpms to get going, This takes a little practice to get that right.

Gary


I have not heard of a low rpm problem on the lc r bikes. I does take some rpms to get going, This takes a little practice to get that right.

Gary
Thanks Gary. 52,000 and No clue!

Just bought it from an independent dealer. All fluids were (reportedly) changed, including final drive (because I requested it on a 2004 I never actually looked at before switching to the 2014). Dunno about air cleaner but I'd like to think they would have done it if they needed to.

They put a new battery in for my test drive. Somehow cleared a TPMS error. Put in new fork seals and while they were at it replaced the front tire at their expense (after saying there was no reason for me to replace either at my expense).

Service records run by local Beemer dealer were negative for any open warranty and service campaign items and only showed a couple minor items. (Service Manager said non-warranty work is often not logged) 🙁 They are booking service appointments for mid-July now.

Sea Foam seems to be helping! I thought low idle is a well documented issue with many of these bikes and the latest version was bumped by 200 rpm for launch purposes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Gary, I happen to own an Innova Electronics Bluetooth OBD Scan Tool Dongle. Looks like I just need to buy the adapter cable and software.

Where would I find the port on my baby girl (Betty Beemer) and what am I looking at to get to it?

Thanks again!
 
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