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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have literally spent hours trying to either get that inside bolt out, or hours trying to get it back in.

Anyone figure out a solution to that problem?

Right now, buying a lift for my bike is not an option. I’m guessing that having her up on a lift makes it a lot easier?

I've been day dreaming about a longer bolt and a long spacer to bring the bolt head closer to the opening it gets inserted into? But, since it's metric, it would probably be hard to find in the USA?

Best from Gorham ME
Bob
 

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Bob, I'm chuckling sympathetically. I just did a fair amount of wiring on my bike which included mounting some wired accessories on the handlebars, necessitating pulling the trim covers several times. I found the upper bolt, the longer of the two, more troubling. The first time I did the re-assembly I threw down my torx driver in disgust, had a beer, and came back later. The beer didn't help much.

What I did that "sort of" worked was as follows. I have a little rolling stool I sit on that put me at eye level with the bar. I used a 1/4" handle driver with the right torx bit for the bolt head. Make sure the wires along the handlebar are routed so as not to interfere with the two bolt moldings to match up. Leaving the lower screw out to give a little more moveability I pushed the upper bolt in full, then, while looking between the two halves with a flashlight in my teeth, I sort of got things lined up and eventually managed to get the top in position to start threading on the bolt.

Sounds silly, and I felt silly....but eventually I got it to work. Leave the upper bolt a bit loose until the lower one is then installed.

Good luck
JD
 

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You are right. If the alignment is not absolutely perfect, it is impossible to get the bolts started. I have a very fine stone grinder and I grind the tips of the bolts..just to put a very sleight cone shape on the begining of the treads, this way it finds it's a way easier.
 

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Bob,
The problem is the angle of the bolt, it is deceiving. I use a long finishing nail to line it up and I use a torx head only (about 2" long) not the long screwdriver. Every time I had trouble it was because I was starting the screw at the wrong angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've figured out how to get the bolts started, and finally get them to close the handle bar cover. But I'm never sure if I'm on the bolts when I go to re-tighten them.

The REAL *&#$^!!??* is trying to un-screw those dam things!!

Best from Gorham ME
Bob
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Torx? I use a 3mm ball allen to remove and replace. And yes sometime they are a biotch to get started.
 

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I'm confused.

I've had my handle bar covers off a dozen times in the last 12 months. I've never had an issue getting the bolts started.

Are you tightening the first one before installing the second one? That might explain it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you for your time posting suggestions.

I hadn't thought of a torch? But, while I'm swearing at the dam thing, I might be tempted to torch my bike! :))
 

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My bad.......I think I'm the one that said "torx" in this......so much for late nite posts.......they're allen bollts....sorry.

JD
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine are torx--straight from the factory.

I've been daydreaming away about this. I had planned to replace mine with Allen head.

I was thinking that if I went with Allen head I could cut up an Allen wrench and cut it off so that it was just visible, and then JB weld it into the Allen head?

Best from Gorham ME
Bob
 

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BecketMa said:
Mine are torx--straight from the factory.

I've been daydreaming away about this. I had planned to replace mine with Allen head.

I was thinking that if I went with Allen head I could cut up an Allen wrench and cut it off so that it was just visible, and then JB weld it into the Allen head?

Best from Gorham ME
Bob
Methinks this needs an Ari "The Farkle King" re-engineering solution with a touch button to screw & un-screw the covers! :histerica
 

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I'm gonna go in a hole and hide......my bar trim cover bolts "are" torx........and I got to reading this thread and and and began to doubt my memory of a late nite a few days ago......2AM when I last put mine together.. But yes....I was able to hold the torx bolt on the head of the hand driver and wiggle the top half of the trim piece with my other hand.....................and worry the parts back together.

I"ll shuddup and let the experienced hands here help. All I know is I agree with the original post that at times the reassembly of those trim bits for the bar can be frustratingly fussy.

JD
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Oooooooooh!

If you only knew how many times I've forgot or change information around during the 9 years I've been on this site!?

I appreciate the time you spent offering suggestions.

YES!! It's time for Ari to whip this silly time wasting way to bolt the covers together.

Best from Gorham Maine
Bob
 

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BecketMa said:
I have literally spent hours trying to either get that inside bolt out, or hours trying to get it back in.

Anyone figure out a solution to that problem?

Right now, buying a lift for my bike is not an option. I’m guessing that having her up on a lift makes it a lot easier?

I've been day dreaming about a longer bolt and a long spacer to bring the bolt head closer to the opening it gets inserted into? But, since it's metric, it would probably be hard to find in the USA?

Best from Gorham ME
Bob
I had mine on and off several times last year while installing my CB radio. It took a little fiddling, but I didn't have any major problems with the covers.

The key things for me were:

1. Be sure the bolts/screws are lined jup straight with the brass insert they go into. This is tricky as the curve of the covers does not give you a good reference to go by.

2. Once you get one in place, only screw it in a couple of turns to be sure it is engaged well in the threads. DON'T tighten any of the bolts more than this until they are all in place. Then carefully tighten them rotating from one bolt to another taking a few turns on each.
 

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jzeiler said:
Torx? I use a 3mm ball allen to remove and replace. And yes sometime they are a biotch to get started.
my bad, I meant to say 3 mm short allen, opps!
 

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When you open the bar covers for the first time and discover that one of the little brass threaded doo hickeys is loose in the plastic holder(i.e. the plastic piece is broken) you can tie it down permanently with a couple dabs of Gorilla Glue.

Loren
 

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jzeiler said:
Torx? I use a 3mm ball allen to remove and replace. And yes sometime they are a biotch to get started.


+1 with John.....mine is a 3mm allen head also.

Ron
 

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PMitchell said:
Methinks this needs an Ari "The Farkle King" re-engineering solution with a touch button to screw & un-screw the covers! :histerica
Paul, thanks for the suggestion!

Actually my only problem regarding these bolts has been the the fact that I'm having too many wires inside the handlebar covers. This has resulted to cracking the plastic "nut" part off of the upper cover. Some epoxy and fibreglass has cured that problem.

As far as the bolts themselves, I also have the 3 mm allen screws and have never encountered any other particular problems getting them started. Once I dropped the lower screw in the black hole under the radio stingray but found it there a couple of months later when undressing the bike.

Instead of motorizing these bolts I have looked seriously at my rear mud flap. As the standard mud flap is so short the rear of the bike gets dirty real easy with the slightest amount of water on the road. So it would be nice to have a motorized rear mud flap extension that you can lower down when the road gets wet and then back up on the sunny weather.
Especially when the new K 1600 has the adjustable rear mud flap but the poor thing one has to adjust manually!:(

Regards
 
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