[bingo296]

I am new to the site. I just acquired a BMW K1200 LT 2007. It has plenty of power, but I notice that it bogs a little starting off in first gear. Also the engine sounds noisy and I did not know if this is consistent with this bike. The previous owner said always used BMW's synthetic oil. The bike has 38000 miles.

 

[jzeiler]

There is little low end torque on the LT. Don't exceed 1,600 rpm as you release the clutch until it is fully engaged. Stay in first until 4,500 and see how that feels. You can go all the way to 62 mph in 1st before you hit the rev limiter. Normal shifts should always be at 3,500 or above. Learn to use the power band above 4,500.

 

[Cochinosucio]

There is little low end torque on the LT. Don't exceed 1,600 rpm as you release the clutch until it is fully engaged. Stay in first until 4,500 and see how that feels. You can go all the way to 62 mph in 1st before you hit the rev limiter. Normal shifts should always be at 3,500 or above. Learn to use the power band above 4,500.

+1
I drive it like I stole it, and shift around 5500K. She sure is fun in that range... During start off though, you are not likely to get her front wheel off the ground, if that's what you are thinking...
Welcome! Enjoy the big girl! This site has an unbelievable amount of information to make owning the K12 an absolute pleasure. Here is a post by JSpen that sums up lots of great info...
Originally Posted by JPSpen

Everyone has given you the straight info....

I'll give you the lecture...

When coming to a stop.. Leave the engine running and in first gear always...

Turn off the engine by putting the side stand down... Hold the bike upright for 20-30 seconds to let the oil drain out from the back side of the cylinders..

Then put it on the side or center stand....

One of these days you'll forget and get a 5 minute smoke trail... It's normal...

Don't come to a stop with the front end turned EVER...Because of the telelever front end.. Any energy that would have been used up by bobbing the front end on a conventional bike will cause the bike to want to jump towards the ground....

If she starts over. Once it get's past the point of no return... You're not going to stop it...
Don't try.. You'll only get hurt... She has bumpers and as long as you don't hit the windshield on something like a wall or another car or bike.. . She'll survive..

The engines are kind of noisy and the alternator drive can make some noise if you've got a big load on the electrical system....

42psi front, 48psi Rear...Religiously unless you like to buy tires..
The tires will start cupping and you'll start hearing a roar when you lean the bike...NORMAL....
Finally the roar will get so bad that you'll have to buy new tires to make it go away..NORMAL...

It really concerns me that you don't have a license.. An LT is NOT a good first bike...Hopefully you'll survive long enough to learn to ride it...

Oh yeah, You've got an LT now.. NOTHING will EVER be CHEAP again...

Everything you buy for her will be twice as much as you thought it would be.. At least..

Don't cheap out on anything... It never pays on this bike..

Have fun...

John

 

[WillieC]

There is little low end torque on the LT. Don't exceed 1,600 rpm as you release the clutch until it is fully engaged. Stay in first until 4,500 and see how that feels. You can go all the way to 62 mph in 1st before you hit the rev limiter. Normal shifts should always be at 3,500 or above. Learn to use the power band above 4,500.

This is good information for me. Coming from the HD world I am used to low end torque and it can difficult to adjust. I am OK on the starting out part but I tend to want to ride at lower RPMS once I am "up to speed". I used to run my FLHX at 2000 RPM's criusing and I now keep it around 3k on my LT. Somehow I fear I am over rev'ing the motor when I get up around 5k but I will adjust. I am hoping to have my LT back this week so I can do some riding, I really miss it.

Thanks for sharing the fine information John

 

[wa1200lt]

This is good information for me. Coming from the HD world I am used to low end torque and it can difficult to adjust. I am OK on the starting out part but I tend to want to ride at lower RPMS once I am "up to speed". I used to run my FLHX at 2000 RPM's criusing and I now keep it around 3k on my LT. Somehow I fear I am over rev'ing the motor when I get up around 5k but I will adjust. I am hoping to have my LT back this week so I can do some riding, I really miss it.

Thanks for sharing the fine information John

I was flogging my bike down hill on a steep, twisty mountain grade and the engine started "cutting out". I thought I had ruined my poor little purple scooter. Not so. Turned out I was into the rev limiter. A quick upshift and all was right with the world again. The sound it makes when it is runing that fast is exhilarating.

Loren

 

[FlyK12LT]

John or anyone else that wants to chime in. I also have a 07 and am wanting to know if I should replace OEM shocks with Ohlins or Wilburs or if I should just go with Hyper pro springs? Whats the advantage of replacing the shocks as opposed to just the springs?

 

[gary45]

I am new to the site. I just acquired a BMW K1200 LT 2007. It has plenty of power, but I notice that it bogs a little starting off in first gear. Also the engine sounds noisy and I did not know if this is consistent with this bike. The previous owner said always used BMW's synthetic oil. The bike has 38000 miles.

If I am driving in rush hour traffic, Toronto one of the worst traffic cities in north America, I use very little throttle and shift at low rpm's, it can take 1 hour to go the 10 miles from downtown to home. I drove my K100 and K11 exactly the same, They get good runs on the highway and I use the rev limiter occasionally - highway accelleration. I normally have the clutch engaged hand off lever within 3 feet of travel from stopped - the trick is to apply just enough power as the cluich is engaged.

 

[amarider]

John or anyone else that wants to chime in. I also have a 07 and am wanting to know if I should replace OEM shocks with Ohlins or Wilburs or if I should just go with Hyper pro springs? Whats the advantage of replacing the shocks as opposed to just the springs?

Just springs will stop the bottoming out and give a firmer ride. To improve the rebound and dampening you will need to replace the whole shock with better and adjustable valving. This will refine the ride and can put the LT "on Rails" so to speak.

Springs = Better ride and enough firmness to handle extra weight. But sooner or later the valving of the stock shock will wear out.

High End shocks = The above plus refinement and more adjustability. Plus they can be serviced.

 

[FlyK12LT]

Just springs will stop the bottoming out and give a firmer ride. To improve the rebound and dampening you will need to replace the whole shock with better and adjustable valving. This will refine the ride and can put the LT "on Rails" so to speak.

Springs = Better ride and enough firmness to handle extra weight. But sooner or later the valving of the stock shock will wear out.

High End shocks = The above plus refinement and more adjustability. Plus they can be serviced.

Thanks! That's the explanation I was looking for. I think I'll be in line for a pair of shocks.
Now to find that coin, so I can flip to see if I get Ohlins or Wilburs. :histerica

 

[amarider]

Just make sure whom ever you order them from knows how to set them up properly and gets you the proper spring rate.

Dan Kyle is great @ Kyle Racing for Ohlins.