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Discussion Starter #1
I am in the process of trying to solve my intermittent slipping clutch on my 05 LT. And based on what I read, I am hoping it is caused by a leak in the clutch slave cylinder vs. the rear main seal.

Out of curiosity, I called Bob's BMW and asked how much for a clutch replacement on my 05 LT and was quoted $1,400 to $2,500 for the job. When asked about the swing in price, the tech said it was due to the parts needed to fix and repair other "related" parts. He also told me that it takes their master tech's a half a day ( I am assuming 4 hours is a half day) just to get out the tranny.

This weekend I am having a few local LT riders join me for the tear down and replacement of the clutch slave cylinder seal and weep hole drilling based on John Z's video (THANK YOU JOHN). Wish us luck!

Glenn
 

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If your clutch is already slipping. Then replacing just the slave cylinder won't fix anything..
The slave cylinder isn't causing the clutch slip.. It's the fluid that's leaking from the slave cylinder going down the release rod and contaminating the clutch that's causing the slip..
OR, One of the other seals.. Transmission input seal. Engine output seal, Transmission input shaft output seal..Any of these failures can cause the clutch to get contaminated...

You have to go all the way and replace the clutch disk that has been contaminated...

The extra $$$ the mechanic is talking about is all the other seals and stuff you might as well do while you've got it all apart...Although I can't imagine it being another thousand dollars..
I believe there are four seals and an O ring. Maybe an extra hour to put them all in....While you're doing the clutch anyway...So a thousand extra is stretching it a little..Maybe 1600 or so...

Good Luck

John
 

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Back in 2007 the clutch slippage on my '02 turned out to be from a leaky rear main seal. While they (Iron Horse in Tucson) were in replacing the clutch, I had all the seals replaced, the clutch slave replaced with the updated part, and weep holes drilled in the slave and between the engine and tranny. Total cost was about $1800. Labor accounted for a large amount of that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I know that fixing the seal won't solve the clutch slipping problem -- I am hoping 1. The issue is my clutch slave seal leading and 2. that I can burn off the containments that are on the clutch. I know it is a long shot, but I will be giving it a try this weekend.

Glenn
 

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Bob's quoted me $2300, the other day. Trans Am in Lititz, PA quoted $1500, which included rear main seal, tranny seals, slave cylinder and the like. Mechanic said about 16 hours labor, and he would gladly drill the weep hole. Dropping off the bike tomorrow, will keep you posted.
HTH
Wes
 

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I am hoping 1. The issue is my clutch slave seal leading and 2. that I can burn off the containments that are on the clutch. I know it is a long shot, but I will be giving it a try this weekend.
Good Luck, That kind of plan has never worked out for me....When you get down to the slave cylinder.. Leave the hose connected and pull the slave off the boss.. Then work the clutch lever and see if you're getting any leakage....if oil comes out when removing the slave be sure to catch it on a clean rag so that you can perhaps verify what kind of oil it is..

Really, Good luck..

John
 

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jkersh1 said:
Back in 2007 the clutch slippage on my '02 turned out to be from a leaky rear main seal. While they (Iron Horse in Tucson) were in replacing the clutch, I had all the seals replaced, the clutch slave replaced with the updated part, and weep holes drilled in the slave and between the engine and tranny. Total cost was about $1800. Labor accounted for a large amount of that.
That's what A&S charged me for my '99 with the same problem, had about the same things done about the same time as yours in 2007. I did, however, ride in without all the tupperware on to save a hundred or so on labor.
 

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southern_nj said:
Yes, I know that fixing the seal won't solve the clutch slipping problem -- I am hoping 1. The issue is my clutch slave seal leading and 2. that I can burn off the containments that are on the clutch. I know it is a long shot, but I will be giving it a try this weekend.

Glenn
Going in as far as the weep hole will tell you a lot. 1. If the slave is leaking, 2. if the transmission input shaft rear seal is leaking. But if either of those are not and the release shaft is dry, then all that leaves is the engine seal/o-ring. That was the case on mine but it was not so much the contamination as mine was worn almost to the limits as well. This was from a 6,000 mile trip pulling a trailer with poor clutch technique on my part.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You guys have been great...countdown is 26 hours before I start taking the LT to investigate what the root cause is of the slipping clutch.

BTW, I purchased my seal/gasket from Bob's BMW -- who quoted me on the clutch job -- and it is good thing I called and asked about the status of the parts I ordered Tuesday. The alternate parts guy (new one from Tuesday) said there was no such order -- he did make good and reordered the seal/gasket for me (and absorbed the FedEx cost) -- although I did not get a confirming e-mail on the order????

FYI -- I asked about a 20% discount on parts (I didn't need it on this order since it was only $19 or so in parts) should I buy a clutch and related parts. He said that they do not discount their parts at all and would lose money on certain BMW parts. I then mentioned BMW Chicago (I might have gotten the dealer's name wrong) did, he then quickly said they are out of business.

Thanks for all your help.

Glenn
 

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Glenn, we will look forward to your report on the project, best of luck to you all. I promise you that no matter what the outcome, you will learn a lot. I bought my new slave from Beemer Bone Yard, you get great prices and service there.

When I was doing the weep hole project, I found that I needed new rear pivot bearings and had to order them so that put me back a week. You never know what all you might find when you get into it. In any case, I am a strong advocate of doing it yourself. Saves a hell of a lot of money and you learn so much about your bike.
 

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Glenn,
I replaced my clutch (along with the valve stem seals and other work on the engine) last year. I am in central New Jersey and would be glad to answer any questions you may have (PM me). Here is my post from last April 2011 summarizing my clutch replacement experience with some great references (Kenny Crawford, Kevin Cooke and John Zeiler) and pictures.

I have put over 14K miles on the bike since finishing the clutch/engine work. My total cost for the work was $1150, but that included $500 to my mechanic who did most of the engine work. I'd estimate a clutch job would be about $600 or so for the parts.

Again, PM me if you think I can help.
Dan Sullivan

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Last October, I took apart my 01 LT to replace the clutch and rebuilt the cylinder head. At that time I posted pictures of the disassembly. Well, over the winter, I leisurely re-assembled everything. All is running well now except that I had lost my cruise control system (diagnosis is OK but CC just doesn't engage) - something to work on in upcoming weeks.

But I can say I am overall very satisfied with the results. I pulled a lot of information from the BMW LT website, using Kenny Crawford's (and his Texas Gang's) "Changing a Main Seal and Clutch Slave Cylinder"; Kevin Cookes "Slave Cylinder Weep Hole Drilling Procedure"; John Zeiler's video on the weep hole procedure; as well as the Clymer manual and BMW shop manual. As a backyard mechanic, these references were invaluable to me. Oh yes, I also enlisted the support of my local motorcycle mechanic for the more dicey procedures.

The total effort for the work done was just over 6 months (Oct 5, 2010 to April 7, 2011 - a leisurely pace during which time I rode my other bikes), $1150 in parts and labor (I had support from my local mechanic), and about 72 hours in the garage (as opposed to 45 hours for the disassembly).

The pictues of the assembly are at https://picasaweb.google.com/sully2028/01LTAssembly# and if you want to relive the past and see the disassembly pictures, go to https://picasaweb.google.com/sully2028/01LTDisassembly#.

Lessons learned - (1) take more pictures during the disassembly and (2) label all electrical connections prior to disconnecting them, using Gaffer tape (duct tape will not hold the markings).
__________________
 

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Here is my recent '05 intermittant clutch slippage saga, from the South Central sub-forum:

Clutch Thread

Since I have an extended warranty, I was hopeful that the clutch was contaminated by fluid; no such luck, and no coverage. Based on the comments posted, and conflicting stories from dealer personnel, I am not so sure anymore whether the clutch is contaminated or not. Only way to be sure is to tear it down and inspect it. If it is contaminated, I will find a way to get otto the dealer and the beatings will be severe! LoL
 

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Someone asked about the availability of the documents I referred to in my post. They are all on the BMWLT website.

Go to the Files section of the website, then the Technical Documents section , and download from the first page: 1200LT Main Seal & Clutch Parts List, Changing a Main Seal and Clutch Slave Cylinder Guide (both by Kenny Crawford, alias “BlauBeeMr” - two excellent documents). Then go to page 4 of the Documents section and download the “Slave Drilling Procedure” (this was written by Kevin Cooke and posted on the website by Dan Martin).

Both documents make reference to the Clymer manual on the K1200LT (an excellent reference) and some reference to the BMW LT shop manual.
 

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Thank you All! I am having a new clutch, rear main seal, and tranny seals done this weekend for $950 by Josiah at Dirtball Customs in Scottsdale. Now i feel like i am getting a good deal.
 

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Foiler said:
Thank you All! I am having a new clutch, rear main seal, and tranny seals done this weekend for $950 by Josiah at Dirtball Customs in Scottsdale. Now i feel like i am getting a good deal.
I dunno, I had the same work done on my previous (99) LT in 2003 at Ironhorse MC in Tucson and paid $2K +. While an independent mechanic is often less expensive on labor than a dealership, parts should be about the same. It has been a while and I no longer have the paperwork, but I thought the parts alone were close to $700 - $900. Good for you, if so Scott, cuz you got a helluva deal.
 

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I haven't ridden that far yet, but I've been to the clutch and back :cool:

From where I stand, why the clutch is slipping is merely a curiosity. Once I'm going that far in, it won't matter what I find wrong. I'm replacing the main seal, slave cylinder, drill the weep hole if it's not done, transmission seals, and the replaceable clutch parts along with whatever else looks bad. This will almost always make it a two session job just because I'll have to get unanticipated parts once I have it torn down.

It is nice to know if you actually repaired a problem, but mine was slipping with no visible failure and it was working when I put it back together and has been working for 15K miles. So whatever it was, I got it.

The parts aren't so expensive that I would want to reuse anything only to have it slip when you are done or have it fail shortly thereafter. It's not like there is some kind of test without putting the bike completely back together.

I have a thread where I detailed my clutch repair here.

Good luck!
 

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Glenn
I live in Elmer 15 min ride to Blackwood would like to see what you get into .
Never had my lt or k100rt down that far to replace the clutch . I have had all
the tupperware off and on a lot . PM me your address or email me like to meet
you and other LT owners in SJ .
Thanks Ernie
 

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Re, Do it yourself clutch Job. . .

Regarding clutch slippage, possible due to fluid contamination. First off,do you see fluid
leaking,dripping from the bottom rear motor area? If so get some of it on your fingertip.
See if it easily rinses off with just water, no soap. Motor or transmission oil will not rinse
off, but clutch /brake fluid will rinse off easily with just plain water. Tearing down an LT to
check for the cause of a slipping clutch is a lot of work, best to address all possible causes
while there, labor cost or time would would make it foolish not to. Most LT owners having a
reasonable amount of mechanical skill, some tools maybe a friend or two for support and a
generous amount of patients can preform the job in a weekend . But also keep in mind the shop or dealer must warranty their work for possible up to a year. You must provide your
own.
Tech days are always fun
u-turn.
 

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I went to Max's today for some new tires and the Tech stated that he thought the clutch might be going. Not because any slippage but because for it to engage, he had to let the lever go almost all the way out. He stated that at 60K, the plate may have reached it's limit.

I guess because it has been going, I'm use to it. No slippage or loss of power while riding.

My question- should I do the preemptive repair/replacement or should I keep riding her until she begins to fail. :confused:
 
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