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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all
New member here looking at buying a 2001 k1200Lt.

The current owner replaced the battery and on start up didn't do the TPS reset. No big problem there of course once going thru the open/close throttle procedure. BUT..cannot get the blinking fault light on the dash to go off. He has tried the standard reset procedure...ignition on...kill switch in run position, wot and closed 3 times, ignition off...then start but the light keeps on blinking.

I've researched here for hours...he has been online at the UK forum...has tried their suggestions...to no avail.

Everything seems to suggest the bike has to go to the stealers...only they can remove the fault with their magical...and obviously expensive wand. Disc the battery does not clear the fault indication as you would expect it to do.

Anyone able to confirm that this is what can happen on a battery change? He tells me the light was not flashing before the change...everything works fine and as it should...just have an annoying flashing light going continually.

From my conversations with him I've no reason to belief he's not being truthful

Any thoughts appreciated...thanks
 

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are you sure it is not the brake light flashing, it wont go off until you get the bike moving, tps is no big deal and will fix itself anyway after a few miles
 

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Hi all
New member here looking at buying a 2001 k1200Lt.

The current owner replaced the battery and on start up didn't do the TPS reset. No big problem there of course once going thru the open/close throttle procedure. BUT..cannot get the blinking fault light on the dash to go off. He has tried the standard reset procedure...ignition on...kill switch in run position, wot and closed 3 times, ignition off...then start but the light keeps on blinking.

I've researched here for hours...he has been online at the UK forum...has tried their suggestions...to no avail.

Everything seems to suggest the bike has to go to the stealers...only they can remove the fault with their magical...and obviously expensive wand. Disc the battery does not clear the fault indication as you would expect it to do.

Anyone able to confirm that this is what can happen on a battery change? He tells me the light was not flashing before the change...everything works fine and as it should...just have an annoying flashing light going continually.

From my conversations with him I've no reason to belief he's not being truthful

Any thoughts appreciated...thanks
FIRST, we need to know if your K1200LT has ABS2 or iABS (integral ABS). Depending on Market (USA -vs- rest of the world), you could have either on a 2001 - this is were the ABS system change over was done for most countries.

If Front-Brake CALIPERS are marked BREMBO: you have ABS2 system,
If Front-Brake CALIPERS are marked BMW: you have iABS system (Integral-ABS with servos).

On 1st generation dash of K1200LT, the RED warning sitting next to NEUTRAL has NOTHING to do with engine or EFI faults.
The so called "TPS reset" is NOT required in most cases and will NEVER cause a warning on dash... end-of-story on this ;-)

A RED warning like you refer (next to NEUTRAL) is ONLY related to EITHER:
- ABS faults (if red warning is flashing after ignition is turned ON)
- rear BULB defect (if warning is fixed after ignition is turned ON)
- certain type of brake switches defect on iABS (if warning is fixed after brake is applied)

HOWEVER, the type of faults AND flash sequence will change depending on which ABS system you have. Thus, we need to know this to continue troubleshooting.

On ABS2 system you need EITHER of:
- a manual fault reset using dealer's computer
- a manual fault reset using a GS911
- a manual fault reset using a jumper wire hooked up into the large ABS connector

On later iABS, you do NOT need any of this as the system will do a complete fault checks at each ignition ON sequence. Based on this self-diagnostic procedure, it will show a certain combo of 2 RED warnings (sitting left of NEUTRAL). In this system, you need to start moving (approx 5 mph) to extinguish the last warning. The moving step will complete the internal ABS checks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks John

You've confirmed what I have suspected...the bike just needs to be moved...it has iABS...the guy with the bike knows less about it than me. Good end result is that he's willing to knock more money off the purchase price to accommodate a sale next weekend....based on the idea that I might be buying something with a problem... you gotta have a win sometime hey!

Appreciate the time you took to reply and extent of explanation....top stuff! Greetings to you from Qld ..... land of Oz
 

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Thanks Linton.....you're right....having BMW calipers on the front it's got iABS...relief to know it's a simple fix. Going to be my first BMW in 43yrs riding so bit to get use to. All the best mate from Sunshine Coast Qld
 

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Thanks John

You've confirmed what I have suspected...the bike just needs to be moved...it has iABS...the guy with the bike knows less about it than me. Good end result is that he's willing to knock more money off the purchase price to accommodate a sale next weekend....based on the idea that I might be buying something with a problem... you gotta have a win sometime hey!

Appreciate the time you took to reply and extent of explanation....top stuff! Greetings to you from Qld ..... land of Oz
Given that it a new bike for you (understand you bought used). to confirm that all is 100% right with iABS, you need to do all this:
1) with ignition ON, engine NOT started, wait 5 seconds (internal self-check will finish) AND confirm you have only the leftmost ABS red warning flashing SLOW (1 time per sec). They both flash during self-check, but eventually one goes out (general warning).

2) in same configuration (ignition ON, engine NOT started), press Front-brake lever and listed for electrical servo motor of ABS unit. Press lightly at first (for 2 sec) then press harder (for 2 sec). Listen to noise difference as servo motor works stronger (it should).

3) do same test as above using ONLY the rear brake pedal.

4) At this point, check that both RED warnings (left of Neutral) are still in same configuration (ABS is flashing slow, the other is OFF).

5) Go for a ride and check that remaining ABS warning goes OFF after bike moves about 15 feet AND reaches approx 5 MPH.

6) During the ride, use both front lever and brake pedal to test that both ABS warnings do NOT come back.

The goal of the last test is to check for variations ( temperature, tolerances, heat, weak charging system...) that may cause the ABS unit (or the brake switches) to cause a fault on dash. These 2 RED warnings should not show up (until next ignition OFF / ON cycle).

Always make your homework BEFORE you buy.
These iABS units are VERY EXPENSIVE (new) and costly to repair (only in Europe for the moment). This is a weak point of the K1200LT, even more so, if the brake system has not been flush regularly as scheduled in maintenance chart (every year for 1 circuit and every 2 years for all circuits).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the only light that's staying on...meaning a continual regular slow blinking is the general warning light...the ABS light, along with the rest of the lights, do their normal thing when the ignition is turned on. After starting everything goes out except the general warning light...I believe he's started the bike and probably just spun the wheels to check that that the brakes are working without actually moving it at 5kmh or so. I've told him to park it and I'll handle it. Thanks again
 

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So the only light that's staying on...meaning a continual regular slow blinking is the general warning light...the ABS light, along with the rest of the lights, do their normal thing when the ignition is turned on. After starting everything goes out except the general warning light...I believe he's started the bike and probably just spun the wheels to check that that the brakes are working without actually moving it at 5kmh or so. I've told him to park it and I'll handle it. Thanks again
I think you got this reversed.... English is not my main language, but what I tried to explain earlier is not the same as what you said above ;-)

LET ME TRY AGAIN:
About 5 seconds AFTER ignition ON, you should ONLY see the leftmost ABS RED warning flashing slow. The "General Warning" (triangle shape) should go OFF during that 5 sec period.

Then, BOTH WHEELS need to move at same speed (approx 5 MPH) so that the system completes the so-called "pull-away" final check. this will extinguish the ABS warning.
I have never tried. but I do NOT think rotating 1 wheel only will work.

Assuming both the basic internal diagnostic check AND also the "pull-away" check are successful, then all warnings are OFF and stay OFF during the ride.


A) If you see a continuous "General-Warning" (triangle) that stays ON , then EITHER of this is causing trouble:
- if it happens just after ignition ON and stay continuous from that point ON, then you probably have a bad , burned, or disconnected center bulb on tail-light assy The tail light assy has 3 separate bulbs for tail / brake function.

- On the other hand, if the "general-warning" goes continuous ON only after you have applied either brake Pedal / Lever, then you have a defect related to a brake switch.


B) If you see a "General-Warning" (triangle) that Flashes slow (1 time per sec) then you need to check Brake Fluid level (DOT4) in a 2 sections container hidden behind the right rear side-case (need to open the case). This 2 sections brake fluid container has 1 sensor for fluid level for both rear and front brake circuit. So 2 sections, 2 sensors and 2 filling points (yellow dot in photo)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok I'll check the fluid levels...sounds like it could be the problem. As you can see in the pic, it's only the general light that's illuminated..it blinks 1 per second as you (and I) described. Thanks
 

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Thanks Linton.....you're right....having BMW calipers on the front it's got iABS...relief to know it's a simple fix. Going to be my first BMW in 43yrs riding so bit to get use to. All the best mate from Sunshine Coast Qld
Hey good to see another local on the forum. I'm in Ferny Hills Brisbane. If you buy the bike we should catch up for a ride. It only takes one ride on an LT and you will be hooked.
I guess the question to ask is though. If it is just a drive away self check thing why doesn't the original owner know that.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
G'day Wazza

Yeah once I've got it together we'll catch up..couple of LTs cruising together sure would have a presence hey.

More conflicting info today about this. The downloaded manual shows the Brembo system only...so no info on iABS at all...obviously aimed purely at the US market. I did find the attached info for a 2005 LT, which of course has the BMW iABS. According to the chart my fault doesn't exist. The only thing close is general light "ON", ABS light "OFF" ...meaning faulty tail light. There's no reference to general light "oscillating" with ABS light "OFF".

I haven't seen the bike yet...flying to Sydney on Saturday and riding straight thru to Sunshine Coast...I think the 1100kms will give me a good feel for it hey!!

I think it probably needs the fluid in the ABS servo reservoir area topping up. It's about 13 months since the fluids were changed. I'm not positive that this "fluid change" done included bleeding the brakes...the owner wouldn't know for sure either...it was done in Melbourne before he bought the bike online...might not have been looked at for a couple of years...just unknown really.

Possibly the level might have been approaching a point of setting off the alarm so when the power was cut to the ECU and then powered up with the new battery the system recognised the level was low and has spat the dummy. Maybe, maybe not. Anyway I'm not too worried about it. If the whole ABS stops working I'll still have brakes.

Having ridden 2 Indian Chiefs, 3 GoldWings and 15 other bikes over the last 43yrs...none of which had ABS I think I'll cope. He's knocking another $600 off the price for what might cost nothing to fix so at $4200 I think it's a few pigs I've killed...it'll do me, especially if you check out Redbook value etc. Got my cassette to Smartphone adaptor ready...couple of gigs of highway music up the M1...I hear the road a'calling.

I'll update my profile with some pics etc when it's all said and done..and obviously post here what the outcome was. We'll get together...perhaps cruise the Brisbane Valley on a lazy Sunday hey? Catch ya later mate.
 

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G'day Wazza

Yeah once I've got it together we'll catch up..couple of LTs cruising together sure would have a presence hey.

More conflicting info today about this. The downloaded manual shows the Brembo system only...so no info on iABS at all...obviously aimed purely at the US market. I did find the attached info for a 2005 LT, which of course has the BMW iABS. According to the chart my fault doesn't exist. The only thing close is general light "ON", ABS light "OFF" ...meaning faulty tail light. There's no reference to general light "oscillating" with ABS light "OFF".

I haven't seen the bike yet...flying to Sydney on Saturday and riding straight thru to Sunshine Coast...I think the 1100kms will give me a good feel for it hey!!
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For K200LT having iABS, this fault list with 2 columns of warnings is well known and part or the owner's manual (1 of the 2 manuals that comes with a new K1200LT). Thru the years, with experience, forum members have developed an extended list of causes (and combo of warnings) not covered in this list.

HOWEVER, when you see and check the bike, make sure the leftmost ABS warning does appear after ignition ON. Some "funny" owners have removed the Bulb ..OR.. remove the Relay activating this warning (instead of fixing the cause of the problem).

After ignition ON, It is NOT normal to see ONLY a "General-Warning" (triangle) without any ABS warning. There is no such combo (ABS warning OFF with GENERAL-WARNING ON) up-until the pull-away check is done. Only after pull-away check (start moving) could you see a "General-Warning" alone (if steady... meaning bulb or switch fault)

Following ignition ON, until you start moving, the leftmost ABS warning should be visible. Either flash slow (normal) , steady or fast (both of these being faults).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For K200LT having iABS, this fault list with 2 columns of warnings is well known and part or the owner's manual (1 of the 2 manuals that comes with a new K1200LT). Thru the years, with experience, forum members have developed an extended list of causes (and combo of warnings) not covered in this list.

HOWEVER, when you see and check the bike, make sure the leftmost ABS warning does appear after ignition ON. Some "funny" owners have removed the Bulb ..OR.. remove the Relay activating this warning (instead of fixing the cause of the problem).

After ignition ON, It is NOT normal to see ONLY a "General-Warning" (triangle) without any ABS warning. There is no such combo (ABS warning OFF with GENERAL-WARNING ON) up-until the pull-away check is done. Only after pull-away check (start moving) could you see a "General-Warning" alone (if steady... meaning bulb or switch fault)

Following ignition ON, until you start moving, the leftmost ABS warning should be visible. Either flash slow (normal) , steady or fast (both of these being faults).




Thanks John...given me a good understanding of the progression of lights...will note what's happening when I pick it up. Obviously very weird as it doesn't match anything known and I don't believe there's something different about this bike...just something I haven't found yet or something I'm not being told. Will be an interesting reveal when I sort it. Will post...will at least be a new bit of information hey!
 

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G'day Wazza

Yeah once I've got it together we'll catch up..couple of LTs cruising together sure would have a presence hey.

More conflicting info today about this. The downloaded manual shows the Brembo system only...so no info on iABS at all...obviously aimed purely at the US market. I did find the attached info for a 2005 LT, which of course has the BMW iABS. According to the chart my fault doesn't exist. The only thing close is general light "ON", ABS light "OFF" ...meaning faulty tail light. There's no reference to general light "oscillating" with ABS light "OFF".

I haven't seen the bike yet...flying to Sydney on Saturday and riding straight thru to Sunshine Coast...I think the 1100kms will give me a good feel for it hey!!

I think it probably needs the fluid in the ABS servo reservoir area topping up. It's about 13 months since the fluids were changed. I'm not positive that this "fluid change" done included bleeding the brakes...the owner wouldn't know for sure either...it was done in Melbourne before he bought the bike online...might not have been looked at for a couple of years...just unknown really.

Possibly the level might have been approaching a point of setting off the alarm so when the power was cut to the ECU and then powered up with the new battery the system recognised the level was low and has spat the dummy. Maybe, maybe not. Anyway I'm not too worried about it. If the whole ABS stops working I'll still have brakes.

Having ridden 2 Indian Chiefs, 3 GoldWings and 15 other bikes over the last 43yrs...none of which had ABS I think I'll cope. He's knocking another $600 off the price for what might cost nothing to fix so at $4200 I think it's a few pigs I've killed...it'll do me, especially if you check out Redbook value etc. Got my cassette to Smartphone adaptor ready...couple of gigs of highway music up the M1...I hear the road a'calling.

I'll update my profile with some pics etc when it's all said and done..and obviously post here what the outcome was. We'll get together...perhaps cruise the Brisbane Valley on a lazy Sunday hey? Catch ya later mate.
That's one hell of a first ride if you end up buying it. Price sounds good and even if you need to spend a bit on it you still have a great bike at a decent price. I paid $7,000 for my 05 LT and when I went to get it insured they said the lowest price they had one listed for was $16,000.
Where on the Sunny coast are you. I have friends up in the Montville area.
 

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At Yandina...going to talk to Shannons...will be interesting to see what they say
New England insurance is about the cheapest I have found tell em your Ulysses rider only ride on weekends
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hey, nobody has mentioned that even a new battery installed could cause this to happen if it had been sitting on the shelf long enough for the voltage to drop.

Most manufacturers recommend a charge to be done on the new battery before it's installed but most people probably just whack the battery in and when it fires up better than their old boat anchor they believe their problems are solved. A load test, of course, is the way to go but that doesn't happen.

Low fluid level in the servo supply or old fluid are the other possible causes....will be interesting to see what I find at the end of the 1100kms to home. Intend checking the fluid but will pull the battery and get it fully charged before doing anything else.

We can then establish the important requirement to charge a new battery before installing in such a sensitive motorcycle.
 
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