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Discussion Starter #1
I'm done with replacing brake line, brake pads& bleeding brakes. Speed bleeders are the best! What a time saver!

Anyway, I bought a speed bleeder for the clutch fluid too & checked the clymer manual but I can't find the clutch resevior. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thank you.

Mike
 

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MMcGuire said:
I'm done with replacing brake line, brake pads& bleeding brakes. Speed bleeders are the best! What a time saver!

Anyway, I bought a speed bleeder for the clutch fluid too & checked the clymer manual but I can't find the clutch resevior. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thank you.

Mike
Hi, Mike. Congrats on getting the brake work done.

Check out John Zeiler's post in this thread for the bleeder port to use for the clutch fluid. Good luck with this job too.
 

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It looks just like the brake resevoir on the handle bar. The bleeder is attached to the rt side tip over bar with a zip tie. It is foam covered and has a grub screw which you have to remove
 

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2005 K1200LT
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It is right in front of the clutch lever. The output bleed port is under the right tip over bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it!

Thanks Guys! Your awesome!!
 

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Wow...that location for the grubscrew looks like it would still leave old fluid in the Slave and part of the lines...is that not an issue?
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Rocketsled said:
Wow...that location for the grubscrew looks like it would still leave old fluid in the Slave and part of the lines...is that not an issue?
There is no way to get all the old fluid out of the slave until the clutch wears out and the piston gets pushed all the way back. (Fluid level rises as the clutch wears) But it is a small amount and some swirl mixing occurs during the flush so it is not a big issue. All the fluid will pass through all of the lines though. Best way to do it is pump fresh fluid until it comes out the bleed port and then close it and operate the clutch several time to mix new with old and flush some more. That should get 90% of it.
 

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Well, I know what I'm doing this weekend. ;)

It's getting progressively harder to shift into 4th and 5th...and there was an oddball anomaly where I _thought_ I had the clutch lever all the way in, but the bike lurched a little going from N to 1. I'll be re-lubing the shifter mechanism (used lithium grease before, I'll use spline lube this time), and bleed the system. It was one of the things I didn't do at the 36,000 miles tuneup (the other being changing out the coolant.)
 

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I just bled out my brakes (as some of you remember by trials and tribulations) but I got skeered away from doing my clutch because I read a thread that somebody had something or other break while doing it and got a monster repair bill as a result (of course I cant find the thread now).

So my tag-on question to the one above is this:
:confused: Is there anything that I should take caution on this process when approaching it, like be 'careful with this', or 'make sure you don't put strain on that' types of wisdom or just go through the steps in the BMW Service Manual. I just don't want to break anything or delay getting my bike back in motion.
 

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copperstatetour said:
I just bled out my brakes (as some of you remember by trials and tribulations) but I got skeered away from doing my clutch because I read a thread that somebody had something or other break while doing it and got a monster repair bill as a result (of course I cant find the thread now).

So my tag-on question to the one above is this:
:confused: Is there anything that I should take caution on this process when approaching it, like be 'careful with this', or 'make sure you don't put strain on that' types of wisdom or just go through the steps in the BMW Service Manual. I just don't want to break anything or delay getting my bike back in motion.
The biggest problem I had was removing the bleed assembly that the factory leaves in place. A little heat from the heat gun helped loosen the thread lock. It was still a pain getting it turned out as you have to hold the hose fitting with an open end wrench. Once that is out and the bleed valve is in place, the rest of the job is pretty easy.
 

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Likewise you can just remove the grub screw and use a suitable tool to depress the check ball and let it gravity bleed (actually I prefer to use the term flush). You are just replacing the fluid with fresh.

On that "expensive" post: The guy ended up damaging his hose when he attempted to remove the filler adapter (the part with the grub screw). Most likely did not use some heat to soften the loctite. The only way to get in there to replace the hose involves removing the swingarm.
 
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