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Discussion Starter #1
Well... I finished replacing the clutch and put everything back together. For whatever reason, the bike won't start or even turnover. Everything worked right before I took it apart. I have read through the halls of wisdom and searched the forums. I haven't seen anyone with a similar problem yet.

Troubleshooting/current status
1) New battery - checked it, works in riding lawn mower - 12.5 volts
2) Sidestand switch - verified it works by checking continuity
3) Clutch Switch - verified functioning properly
4) Bike is in Neutral - Gear reading is 0 and Neutral light is on.
5) Checked starter relay - It works. Also checked the volts going into the starter relay with start button engaged. - 0 volts.
6) Fuel pump cycles as normal when the key is turned, normal lights come on etc...
7) Double checked wiring connections are all re attached. (Going to triple check now)

Anything I might be missing or if anyone has seen this before?

I also replaced the crankcase breather hose which required removal of the throttle bodies. I'm concerned that may be where the problems is.

Thanks!
Bill
 

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1999 LTC
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14,456 Posts
About the only thang I can suggest would be to check the reverse knob carefully to make sure it's in correct alignment. Good luck.
 

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Reverse switch is my first guess, second would be to check and make sure you connected all the wires back to their correct posts on the alternator and starter.
Does everything power up? Lights, radio etc? Just not the starter?
 

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Did you hook up all the wires to the battery ?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,087 Posts
If you removed the reverse switch assembly from the transmission shaft there is a good chance you broke one of the micro switches. I usually just leave it on the transmission and disconnect the other end from the bike. The starter signal goes through one of them when in the forward position. Find the connector (white up by the tip over bar on the left side (IIRC). check for continuity between the Black and the Black Yellow wire in reverse and between the Brown and Black Green wire in forward. If you find the one is broken you can temporarily bypass it to start the bike. There are some posts here for a do it yourself replacement that is much cheaper than the dealer part.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Found it. Apparently I did break the back up switch. Wow - $105. I'll check the posts for the cheaper fix or ebay.

Thanks for the suggestions! It was driving me nuts last night and all day at work.

Bill.
 

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3,108 Posts
Don't know how hard that is to get to but it looks like maybe a dot of JB weld on top of a micro-screw might make it good as new. Worth a try if it's easily accessible.
 

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I may have one of those at home ... we will heading back up there from our winter digs after the first of April . If you don't get it fix by then & you need it , let me know .
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks. I'll let you know if I don't get it done by then.

The bike started up right up with no problem jumpering it temporarily.
 

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I had a similar issue in re-assembling my 01LT, after removing the cylinder head for valve work. When put back together, the LT would not start; the starter button was pressed but I got nothing.

I checked the side stand switch (see Clymer pages 61 and 317, two separate tests, one easy, one for continuity) and it looked to be OK. I also re-tracked the starter connections, thinking I may have reversed them. Then I activated the reverse switch (got the white "R" on the dashboard) and then de-activated it, presto, the bike would start.

I will post re-assembly pictures in the next couple of weeks.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,087 Posts
If the JB weld does not work here is the info that Gino posted on the switches:


Manuf: SAIA BURGESS USA
Part #: V4NS-UL
Allied Link
Allied Catalog Link
Datasheet

Don't let the pictures fool you - the V4NS-UL is IP67 sealed, as listed in the Allied CATALOG page.

You'll need to fashion two pins to replicate the mounting of the tandem switches and get them to seat into the metal housing - I cut a piece of a LARGE metal spring paper-clip and glued them in.

These are "form-C" contacts, so one wire is unused. Also: the wires are not bundled - some heat shrink tubing takes quick care of it. The wires are a good 18" long - long enough to route them per the original cable bundle and make your splice near the driver's powerlet socket (the OEM plug is near there).
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