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Discussion Starter #1
My preseason maintenance is progressing well, so far.
This morning, I thought I'd make good use of a rainy, snowy morning & knock off the trans lube change. Everything went fine until it got to loosening the drain plug. That mother's on there!!! Straight torque &/or heavy hammer impacts to the wrench had no effect on it at all...
The bike's a 2000 &, I'll bet, there's no sealing washer on there & it's been on for years & years of heat & cool cycles!!! So, that babes on!!!
Once again, I am certain that I am not anywhere near the 1st to have a 1200LT trans drain plug "locked on"..
So, before I break out the torch & the freeze&release can, what's the experienced wisdom on getting this drain plug out?
BTW: when I pulled the fill plug(easily) the clean 20ml of overfill came out quite clean, for whatever that's worth...
 

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I believe you are talking about the large plug on the brick engine. It has no crush washer and is installed with a fairly high torque. I seem to remember in the upper 30's ft/lbs.. I think you are on the right track with heat and cooling. The aluminum of the case should expand a little bit more than the steel plug with a heat gun. There are cooling sprays available. Loctite has one and I use bubble gum remover spray. (I'm about to say something that I am sure is obvious to you but just checking, it is upside down and you need to check your direction. On the other hand sometimes tightening pressure helps break things loose too)
Smart jerk works better than slow pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thx for tbe quick response!
I've probably put about 150 ft-lbs on this already.
This plug is really stuck! But, I'm going to give it a try with a stronger wrench & a heavy hammer, before bringing out the torch....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I got the 14mm hex bit into this stronger wrench & smacked it with that sledge hammer head. Bam!
Onward!
 

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That plug can be fun sometimes ... I put it in with a torque wrench, take it out with a 3/4" drive rachet handle.:wave
I use my 3/4" drive rachet a lot taking things off like the rear wheel stuff like that .
 

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I got the 14mm hex bit into this stronger wrench & smacked it with that sledge hammer head. Bam!
Onward!
That is still a wimpy wrench. I use a 1/2" drive breaker bar (they're called that for a reason) and mine has always come out without undue stress. :smile:
 

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I always used a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a "cheater" bar (piece of either 1-inch or 1-1/2-inch copper pipe about a foot long). Always did the trick. Also, make sure you loosen or remove the fill plug first. I always made a mess when I changed the fluid as the center stand is in the way. I placed a piece of cardboard down to help protect the garage floor from oil.
 

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Just did mine a few weeks ago and it was probably on there for 10 years at least. Long cheater bar and a hammer shot got it. Next time it should be cake! I always use some PB Blaster, then heat and a couple shots with a hammer to shock it before trying to loosen a stuck fastener. Works like a charm........mostly!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The 14mm socket I got wasn't short enough to fit in with my breaker bar.
So, I whacked the hex bit out of it. Then, I tried loosening the drain plug with a box wrench & a cheater pipe on the end. That almost snapped the wrench. Also tried smacking the box wrench with a good sized ball peen. No luck.
I picked up that stiff combination wrench & a couple of good smacks with the sledge head did the trick.
If I can find a shorter 14mm hex socket in the future, I'll be going with a breaker bar too.
Now, I'm on to the shifter maintenance & airbox temp sensor wire disconnect on the other side. I bought the sealed ball linkage set. So, after I clean & lube everything, I'll keep the original as a spare.
Thx guys!
 

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2005 K1200LT
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Glad you got that out OK. As for the air box temp sensor, check this bulletin and see if any of these mods have been done already to this bike. You can do the mods OR you can disconnect the air box temp sensor but you CANNOT do both without risking detonation.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
My initial ownership maintenance continued today with shifter maintenance/upgrade completed. I pulled off all the left side Tupperware to also check out the coolant reservoir, etc.
Boy, getting the front screw started on the handrail is a real PITA!
So far, I did not see the "Brown loop" wire, connected or clipped.
My LT was mfr'd Jan '00. So, if the ecu hasn't been updated, I'll be pulling the airbox temp sensor wire. However, I haven't gotten a GS911 yet. So, I cannot yet verify it's version yet.
The only essential stuff left on my list is to screw anchor the mirrors & make sure the rear disc abs sensor clearance is in tolerance. That looks a little wide to me, after putting on the ebc disc. & I finally got a set of nonmagnetic feelers.
Then, it's ready for the Road.
After that, I'll get to the gps mount, usb connections, conventional 12V outlets, etc.
But, all is going well(except the weather). So, I may get some seat time in the near future!!!
 

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....
.....
My LT was mfr'd Jan '00. So, if the ecu hasn't been updated, I'll be pulling the airbox temp sensor wire. However, I haven't gotten a GS911 yet. So, I cannot yet verify it's version yet.
...
.....
A K1200LT built before JULY-2000 does not have the new so-called "dual-program" ECU and a matching BROWN-WIRE in the harness. HOWEVER, it may have an update ECU installed later by a dealer based on the Service-Bulletin.

SO... once you get a hold of a GS911, you need to check:
1) if you ECU shows a number ending with "478" or "194", it is the older "single-program" ECU. Newer ECU will end with a number like "048" or "984" for a 1st generation K1200LT like yours. See attached photo for GS911 screen data relevant for this....

2) In addition to the above, if you find you have a newer ECU, you ALSO need to remove TOP-BOX to check if the YELLOW Cat-Code Plug was removed as specified in Service-Bulletin (to trigger the 2nd ECU map).

3) Assuming the 2nd map is triggered (new ECU and Yellow plug removed), you MUST make 100% sure the Air-Box Temp Sensor is plugged AND functional. Otherwise you will have double effect - this may cause serious engine issues. GS911 "real-time" data screen will show actual value read by Air-Box Temp sensor even before engine is started (as long as ignition is ON).

A constant value of 20 celcius (68 F) is suspect as this the default value generated by ECU when the Air-Box Temp sensor is seen as defective (or unplugged).
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thx sailor!
I should be able to read my ecu version well before we get into hot weather temps, especially how this Spring has been going....brrrr...
 

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My preseason maintenance is progressing well, so far.
This morning, I thought I'd make good use of a rainy, snowy morning & knock off the trans lube change. Everything went fine until it got to loosening the drain plug. That mother's on there!!! Straight torque &/or heavy hammer impacts to the wrench had no effect on it at all...
The bike's a 2000 &, I'll bet, there's no sealing washer on there & it's been on for years & years of heat & cool cycles!!! So, that babes on!!!
Once again, I am certain that I am not anywhere near the 1st to have a 1200LT trans drain plug "locked on"..
So, before I break out the torch & the freeze&release can, what's the experienced wisdom on getting this drain plug out?
BTW: when I pulled the fill plug(easily) the clean 20ml of overfill came out quite clean, for whatever that's worth...
If you have the room or can make room an impact gun could work too. Smaller battery operated "Rattle Guns" are nice to have
 

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I believe you are talking about the large plug on the brick engine. It has no crush washer and is installed with a fairly high torque. I seem to remember in the upper 30's ft/lbs.. I think you are on the right track with heat and cooling. The aluminum of the case should expand a little bit more than the steel plug with a heat gun. There are cooling sprays available. Loctite has one and I use bubble gum remover spray. (I'm about to say something that I am sure is obvious to you but just checking, it is upside down and you need to check your direction. On the other hand sometimes tightening pressure helps break things loose too)
Smart jerk works better than slow pressure.
A smart jerk like me used a cheater bar...>:)
 
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