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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys

Have an 05 LT and a battery draw that I think is linked to my DICE system. Regardless I think I would like to instal a "battery power cut off switch" to stop this drain until I have found the real problem. Any suggestions on the one I should use?
 

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Get the Centech Ap-1 with the relay and wire the Dice and what ever else into that
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The Centech Ap-1 is just an auxiliary fuse panlel. I need to kill all power to the bike with the likes of a battery shut off you find on a boat, but in motorcycle size.
 

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I think Kra961 meant the Centech fuse panel with a relay. That cuts the power when ignition is off.

I had one of those on my F650GS. You buy the fuse panel and a relay.

On the LT I bought the Fuzeblock with built in relay. The bonus of this device is that it caters for switched and always on feeds.
 

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You could always add a switch to the Dice harness to switch it off. I don't know of any cutoffs that will fit the small area in the LT.
 

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James read up on the centech there is also a relay that allows for switched and unswitched power to the fuse block all my electronics are setup on as switched power meaning the key needs to be on in order for them to have power.

jameshawk said:
The Centech Ap-1 is just an auxiliary fuse panlel. I need to kill all power to the bike with the likes of a battery shut off you find on a boat, but in motorcycle size.
 

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With cutting off all the power all the time, your motronic will always reset. It will be constantly learning all of the bikes settings. Also, every time you reconnect the battery, you would have to turn the key on, fully open and close the throttle two times, shut off the ignition, then start the bike. Then do the whole thing again when you disconnect the power!
I would try the disconnect switch for the dice unit first. This was a known issue on the early dice units. There is a posting somewhere detailing how to install the switch.
 

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James,

if you have the Dice hooked up to the OEM CD-changer harness the problem is there. Namely one of the harness wires (sorry, I'm not 100% sure any more, but I think red/blue) has constant +12V from the battery.
You can search the correct wire by using a pin needle and pushing it through the wire isolation and the checking it with a multimeter.

An easy fix to this is that you cut this wire and instead feed it from your switched source, for example from your rear seat heater supply. This way your Dice will no longer drain your battery when the bike is standing.

Another possibility is to add a small switch to this said CD-changer wire and turn the switch off when you park the bike. One more thing to remember of course...

I would definately not start building a battery cut off switch just for this purpose. Terrible overkill IMHO...

Regards
 

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mtrevelino said:
With cutting off all the power all the time, your motronic will always reset. It will be constantly learning all of the bikes settings. Also, every time you reconnect the battery, you would have to turn the key on, fully open and close the throttle two times, shut off the ignition, then start the bike. Then do the whole thing again when you disconnect the power!
I would try the disconnect switch for the dice unit first. This was a known issue on the early dice units. There is a posting somewhere detailing how to install the switch.
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Might just be my 02 K1200LT, but I've pulled the batter a few times and completely disconnected the batter several times and never had to go through what you mentioned about re-learning and twisting the throttle. Maybe I'm not getting the benefit of something! Seems to be running well though.
 

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DanDiver said:
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Might just be my 02 K1200LT, but I've pulled the batter a few times and completely disconnected the batter several times and never had to go through what you mentioned about re-learning and twisting the throttle. Maybe I'm not getting the benefit of something! Seems to be running well though.


Dan it is not necessary to do the TPS reset every time you disconnect the battery. I forgot to after my clutch job and had no issues. It may reduce the motronic learning curve.
 

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Re: Battery Power Cut off Switch - DICE battery drain

OK, another victim of the DICE unit... I missed the threads on battery drain...

So in this picture there are 3 wires on the OEM CD changer wiring (lower wires in the pic), and I disconnected the "fused" end of the connector, and put a multimeter on the feed end to check what was live... bike power switched off at key, of course!
So, the centre red/blue wire is +12v, as expected according to the various threads.
However, I was also getting ~ +12v from the white/purple wire just next to it.... ???

If I go ahead and put a switch on the red/blue (or feed it from the rear switched 12v supply, which I prefer) should this fix my battery drain issues?

 

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You folks may want to check the status of your 12V CD or Dice untis leads when the key is in the locked position, not the off position. I have an '05 K1200LT that will draw down the battery if unrriden in about 1 and 1/2 weeks if I leave the key in the off postion. As I understand it, the key in the locked position shuts off more power sources than when the key in the the off position.
 

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kminz said:
You folks may want to check the status of your 12V CD or Dice untis leads when the key is in the locked position, not the off position. I have an '05 K1200LT that will draw down the battery if unrriden in about 1 and 1/2 weeks if I leave the key in the off postion. As I understand it, the key in the locked position shuts off more power sources than when the key in the the off position.
I always leave mine in "lock" which is the "OFF" position with the key removed, never just turned 1/2 way between R & OFF which also seems to cut the power but leaves the steering free to turn & you can't remove the key. The DICE unit still drained it in 2-3 days. The battery is an OEM that was replaced Nov 2009, so still under warranty... but I'm pretty sure the battery is not at fault.

So, I've cut the red/blue wire and connected that to the key-switched power that I run the autocom unit from (won't come on until the key is at least in the accessories "R" position).
The Ipod seems to now stay uncharged until a little while after the key is turned to R... so I'm hoping its all good.
I'm still a little concerned about possible drain from that white/purple wire though....
 
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