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Discussion Starter #1
I have trolled the forum and I believe I have a small load which is draining the battery over time but wanted to see if I am missing something. Below are the facts since I have owned the bike:

- 2002 K1200LT (owned less then a year),
- Live in northern VA (DC area),
- Commute near daily on the bike, 30 miles each way,
- Have a 10 month old Enersys PC680 (Odyssey) battery,
- On occasion, I would notice it strain when starting after sitting for a couple days, but it always fired up,
- Commute change, and now down to about 20 miles each way,
- On occasion, give a slow turn over after sitting for the weekend / couple days,
- Cold weather and holidays hit and it sat around for about two weeks,
- Bike would not start (clicking and servers actuating but no turn over),
- Battery reading 12.4v,
- Charged the battery (not exceeding 15amps per manufacture instruction),
- Bike fires up and all is well,
- 2 plus months go by and this week I notice it is starting to "strain" when starting,
- Almost did not turn over at work tonight...fortunately it did
- Get home tonight, test the battery and after the 20 mile ride it is hovering around 12.5v.

Safe to assume there is a load someplace that is draining the battery or is it possible my commute is not long enough to properly charge the system?


For the past five months I have on occasion used the heated seat and grips, but no other heated great (really mild winter). Would the cold weather be the cause of shortening the draining cycle?

Any way to address this other then a volt meter and chasing phantom loads?

Thanks,
Matt
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Your battery should be at about 13.2 or above immediately after a ride. Sounds like you may have a bad battery or alternator issues but check all your connections for snugness and make sure there's no corrosion before you get too excited. Cutout on the voltage regulator will vary between 13.4 and 13.8 depending on the degree of charge of the battery. Check it at idle and see where it is.
 

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If your concern is a battery drain pull the ground cable off the battery and wire an amp meter in series between the battery and the removed cable with all known drains off. Post this reading and yes your battery voltage is too low.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I am fearful it is an alternator going bad. Had a similar timeline on a car alternator that slowly slipped and then finally went.

Connections all look good - clean and snug.

What will a meter in series tell me? Or is it keeping it connected over time while watching the meter readings what I will get?

Also going to hook it up and see what I am getting while running - based on posts, 13-14vdc would indicate the alternator is ok.

Cheers,
Matt
 

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eujamfh said:
I am fearful it is an alternator going bad. Had a similar timeline on a car alternator that slowly slipped and then finally went.

Connections all look good - clean and snug.

What will a meter in series tell me? Or is it keeping it connected over time while watching the meter readings what I will get?

Cheers,
Matt
Not over time,it will be a real time amp draw as soon as you hook it up. No need to leave it connected unless you actually do have excessive draw then you can use it to isolate the drain but that comes later.

What is the voltage reading at the battery with the engine running?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Battery charged...in series, no apparent draw. Running the bike, meter registered in mid 13v's. With everything on it dips just below 13v.

Looks like I have a bad battery. Wonderful news is it will be under warranty. Shoot...compared to the cost of an alternator...I would be happy with the cost of a battery!

Thanks for the inputs! Hopefully someday I will have enough gray matter to give back to the forum.

Cheers,
Matt
 

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When you check the battery voltage with the engine running hold the RPMs at 4k (not long just enough time for you to read the meter) and post that reading. The proper test is with an applied load based on Ah or CCA but this should be enough to get an idea.
 

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I had the same problem.

I had a Baher intercom that was keying on and killing the battery. I pulled the intercom- no more battery issues.

There is always SOMETHING drawing off the battery- the clock on the dash, the bike computer, etc. Most of the time it's not a problem. That's why if I know the bike is going to sit for a spell, I plug in my trickle charger.

Hope this helps.
 

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I'll check my bike later this evening and let you know what I find. I would think the draw would be around 4ma, the voltage reading 13.9.
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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Matt Get yourself a "Battery Tender" & plug it in when you know you are not going to ride the next day. Here in Texas the heat will kill most batteries in 2 to 3 years tops IF they are not maintained. I got almost 5 years out of my last battery on my LT by ALWAYS putting it on the tender when I parked it. The Best $50.00 I ever spent on the LT.

CLICK HERE It can be bought at most motorcycle shops & Cycle Gear.
 

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Another +1 on the battery tender. Plug it in and don't worry about it.
 

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+1 (Who am I to argue with Stevie and Bones? LoL)
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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+2 on the tender but FIRST get the battery charged up fully. AutoZone and Advance will do that for free (you have to carry the battery in). Once it is fully charged then the short commute should be able to maintain the charge. Then also check for a parasitic load that is drawing current when the bike is off.
 

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I have experienced the same issue and believe that I have tracked it down to not spinning the engine fast enough to overcome the electrical consumption by starting, running the low and high beam and motolights and heated grips/seat. I recall JohnZ posting at one time that it takes about 30 min. of interstate running to recharge the battery just from the demands of starting.

You posted that your commute got shorter. When we moved, my commute changed from 30 miles (25 on interstate) to the current 30 miles with only 10 miles interstate and 20 miles on county roads. The speed limits range from 35-45 mph and that puts the bike between gears - either 3000 in 3rd or 4000 in 2nd, or either 3000 in 4th or 4000 in 3rd.

3000 rpm feels less busy than 4000 rpm so I was running in 3rd and also got better gas mileage. What I have found is exactly what you describe. The bike sounds like it barely has enough power to turn over. Once I realized what was happening, I started running a higher rpm on the county roads and it starts much better. I have also gotten in the habit of turning the key to the shut off all power position.

I have also found running regular gas in the winter helps the bike start easier. The 05 is more sensitive to the cold than the 02 was.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
All - thanks for the input. I have been put of town but am now back and going to get a tender/charger to take care of the problem. I called Odyssey and after hearing my problem with the associated voltages, they think that it is simply slowly discharging and the bike is not keeping up with the charge which is why when the winter months hit, it depleted faster (heated grips and seat).

Thanks again!
 

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eujamfh said:
Battery charged...in series, no apparent draw. Running the bike, meter registered in mid 13v's. With everything on it dips just below 13v.

Looks like I have a bad battery. Wonderful news is it will be under warranty. Shoot...compared to the cost of an alternator...I would be happy with the cost of a battery!

Thanks for the inputs! Hopefully someday I will have enough gray matter to give back to the forum.

Cheers,
Matt
Any thoughts of updating your profile/location information?

Glad you found us, and as for developing grey matter, your time will be here before you know it, maybe already here and just waiting for the right question to be asked...
 
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