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Note: These chargers aren't particularly robust. Make sure you turn off the power to the charger if you unplug it from your bike. After burning up 2 chargers, I added an inline switch. I haven't had any problems since.
 

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how much removal or dismantling was required to re-wire direct to the battery?
I'd say that all the tupperware surrounding the seat area has to be removed. To get to the wiring behind Part #6 in this picture,




You may have to remove these panels, and take the panniers off. If you can get away without removing them, that would be the best since you will avoid accidentally breaking the mounting tabs.

 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I'd say that all the tupperware surrounding the seat area has to be removed. To get to the wiring behind Part #6 in this picture,




You may have to remove these panels, and take the panniers off. If you can get away without removing them, that would be the best since you will avoid accidentally breaking the mounting tabs.

Seems you just require access to the nut behind the plastic holding the DIN plug securely on?

Would one just be disconnecting the factory wiring at this point ( was wondering where this wiring went) and installing wiring direct to the battery?

Wonder (thinking for my uses) if it would be easier to just buy a SAE plug with sufficient lead length and secure it to an easily accessible location after wiring direct to the battery. Then one could still plug in a non-Canbus charger vs an entire rewire (modifying the stock wiring harness) of the rear DIN plug?

This is the method I utilized on my Husqvarna FE501. I then can use the SAE connector plug for battery charging, an electric pump, an auxiliary SAE/USB converter for charging a cell phone, rechargeable light devices and a Garmin In-reach mini. Just need that SAE plug location where it is convenient to charge while riding and not loose the device you are attempting to charge. Maybe tank bag location..
 

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Seems you just require access to the nut behind the plastic holding the DIN plug securely on?
Correct. What I observed on my RT was that there is not enough length of wire behind that plug to pull that socket out easily to disconnect the connector behind it.

Wonder (thinking for my uses) if it would be easier to just buy a SAE plug with sufficient lead length and secure it to an easily accessible location after wiring direct to the battery.
That might be the easiest way without disturbing any of the factory wiring. But, if you plan to use any equipment that pulls more than 5A, I'd be a little careful not to drain the battery accidentally. You can also get something like this mounted on the panel.

 

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Not through the DIN socket (no CANbus) but direct to the battery should be fine.
I tend to agree with keith1200r on this one - I think the charger is intended for pre-CANbus models and therefore won’t charge a 21/22 RT through the DIN socket. Direct to the battery is the only way.

The same charger/part number is listed here with the CANbus warning MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Advanced Battery Charging System
BTW, I do apologize if I came on a little strong! Not my intention nor desire. . . . .
 

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I did this - so I can charge my battery as well as use for heated gear:


 

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Seems you just require access to the nut behind the plastic holding the DIN plug securely on?

Would one just be disconnecting the factory wiring at this point ( was wondering where this wiring went) and installing wiring direct to the battery?

Wonder (thinking for my uses) if it would be easier to just buy a SAE plug with sufficient lead length and secure it to an easily accessible location after wiring direct to the battery. Then one could still plug in a non-Canbus charger vs an entire rewire (modifying the stock wiring harness) of the rear DIN plug?

This is the method I utilized on my Husqvarna FE501. I then can use the SAE connector plug for battery charging, an electric pump, an auxiliary SAE/USB converter for charging a cell phone, rechargeable light devices and a Garmin In-reach mini. Just need that SAE plug location where it is convenient to charge while riding and not loose the device you are attempting to charge. Maybe tank bag location..
Check and see if that pigtail is long enough to reach the lower edge of the fairing. Even though my charger works fine in the front aux port, I had installed an SAE pigtail to the battery anyway, in order to use the Slime air pump that I used to carry with me. That thing drew something like 18 amps! I don't recall how long my pig tail was, but it does reach the bottom edge of the fairing, which makes it quite accessible, and that's where I also plug in my charger.
 

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There had been a lot of discussions over the years on chargers, CANbus compatible or otherwise. You can find tons of data if you take the time to do a search! I find this post to be quite interesting:

I've been using the BMW Advanced Battery Charger since 2002. Used in the '02 R1150RS and am now using it on my '06 R1200RT. It's not the expensive charger, but it's worked like a charm for 8 years. I plug into the bike's socket then plug into a wall outlet. When the green light is steady I unplug from the wall and then the bike. I've never touched the ignition switch during this procedure. Should I be "Whistlin' past the graveyard?"
You will find the post here: Battery Charger
 

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That's my point. We spend a lot of money to ride BMW's. I fail to understand why some aren't willing to spend a little more money to protect that investment. Especially so when "making it work" takes so much effort [IMO]. Buy a proper CANbus charger and Bob's yer uncle.

BTW, the price shown at the link is NOT what I paid for either of mine. They can be - or at least used to be - easy to find for less.
 

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FWIW -- similar to what @darrell (post #19) did -- I've been adding direct-to-battery Powerlet outlets to assorted bikes -- CANbus and otherwise -- for 15 years or so. This includes work on my new C 400 GT a few months ago:

Tire Vehicle Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire


This scoot was ordered through Max's (Troy, NY, location) and, without even my asking, as part of their prep work they installed an SAE pigtail. This is tucked underneath the bodywork somewhere, and I assume this was directly connected to the battery; they showed me where, when I took delivery, but I promptly forgot the location, as I don't like messing with SAE connectors).

The advantages of a Powerlet/DIN/BMW/Hella connector is that it's trivial, quicker, and easier, to connect than, say, an SAE connector.

The advantages of that location -- and I've been using this under-the-left-thigh location on all those bikes -- is that it's fine for connecting a smart charger or an air pump, but it's ideal (IMO) for connecting heated gear: power for heated vests and liners invariably comes out of them on the lower left, and your added connecting cord, in my suggested location, doesn't interfere with steering, doesn't get mushed against bodywork, is easy to connect or disconnect when seated on the bike, and won't be forgotten to be unplugged as you dismount.

I have a coiled cord (recall old phone cords, if you're old enough) with a male Powerlet on one end and a coax plug on the other end, for heated gear.

For smart chargers, I have a cord with a male Powerlet one end and an SAE connector on the other. I made that myself years ago, but you can buy these at Amazon, if you like: just search, for example, powerlet to sae adapter there.

The on-bike socket I've been adding to bikes -- typically with 14-gauge wire and a 15-amp hot-side fuse -- is this one:


So, I offer this type of setup as just another choice, and if anyone's interested I have a bunch of pics of my C 400 GT work for this mod in my gallery for that scoot starting with this image/caption:


I have a sub-gallery of doing this work on my former Victory bagger here (and this is the only bike farkle I've undertaken that involved the use of mayonnaise):


I'm not very familiar with the RT variants (I did own an R 850 R for three years, and now the C 400 GT, in terms of Beemers), but I'm guessing that there is a similar area in the bodywork that is suitable for this type of mod.
 

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That's my point. We spend a lot of money to ride BMW's. I fail to understand why some aren't willing to spend a little more money to protect that investment. Especially so when "making it work" takes so much effort [IMO]. Buy a proper CANbus charger and Bob's yer uncle.

BTW, the price shown at the link is NOT what I paid for either of mine. They can be - or at least used to be - easy to find for less.
I guess that I am the lucky one!! ;) Don't believed in following the crowd, and had gotten a non-CANbus (well, they don't claim it anyway) charger for measly $35 back when I got the '07 RT, and the thing had been quite fine, working through the aux port from then to now! Zero efforts. Didn't have to do anything special. I am still using the same charger right now.
 
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The following is for general interests only. It's not going to help the OP in anyway, but it should show that a non-CANbus compatible charger can work, which is what I have been saying. CANbus itself has very little to no influence as to whether the charger will work or not. It's all depend on how the onboard computer is programmed. To be clear, I am talking about via the aux socket here, and not about direct-connect.

This is the charger that I have been using since owning my old '07 RT:

Font Rectangle Magenta Measuring instrument Electronics accessory


Info from the spec can be seen on a very much outdated site: Battery Doc Sport Charger and Maintainer | ChargingChargers.com

DON'T go looking for it. It was manufactured by a small company that was bought out by a much larger company, Wirthco, quite a few years ago!

I often look at Webbike world site for reviews, and they did a review of this very charger back in 2005, and I wouldn't call it a good review. Note though, that BMW only started implementing CANbus on their bikes since 2005, and this charger was being sold long before that! Here's the Webbikeworld review:


To be clear, I am not saying that the charger that Fast1 is looking at WILL work in the aux socket, but rational tells me that it might. That rational is also reinforced by the old post that I had quoted earlier.

I am now anxious to hear from Fast1 to see if that charger will work, or not!!! ;)
 

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I said right at the beginning that I have no idea how CANBus works but I thought I understood the principe behind it. What you are telling me now Pad seems to go against everything that anyone has ever explained about the system and I’m trying to get my head around what makes a charger CANBus compatible. Why have we all been led down the path that we need a CANBus compatible charger in order to charge through the DIN socket ?

When I read the specifications of your charger on the link you provided - it does state that the lighter socket must be ‘hot’ when the key is out of the ignition. To me, this means either the lighter socket (or DIN socket) is direct wired to the battery or the CANBus is live to effectively ‘switch on’ the socket. We know on the 21/22 RT that the DIN socket remains live for a period of time (up to 15 minutes according to the manual if sufficient current is being drawn) after the ignition is turned off. Therefore, I assume during this time, your charger will charge the battery as the socket is still ‘live’.

What happens after that period of up to 15 minutes ? Does the charger disconnect when the bike shuts down the socket or does your charger keep the socket ‘live’ ? If you plug your charger into the socket after the 15 minutes (when the bike has already switched the socket off), will your charger activate the CANBus to turn the socket back ‘live’ again and therefore start charging ? Is this what makes a charger CANBus compatible - that it can talk to the CANBus to open and keep the socket live ?

It's all depend on how the onboard computer is programmed.
Is this not another way of saying CANBus compatible ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
To be clear, I am not saying that the charger that Fast1 is looking at WILL work in the aux socket, but rational tells me that it might. That rational is also reinforced by the old post that I had quoted earlier.

I am now anxious to hear from Fast1 to see if that charger will work, or not!!! ;)
I think I might buy it for my multiple needs

Thinking it thru a bit and if I wanted to use the upper factory OEM DIN receptible on a 2022 RT I could easily just alter the wiring connection to go direct to the battery bypassing/removing it from OEM CANbus wiring harness (similar to what was suggested earlier in the thread for the rear DIN receptacle. Problem solved and could then use that upper factory DIN for elec pump, heated gear and charging, etc.. many ways one can skin a cat..

I already own a low amp trickle charger I use for my Husqvarna moto, sports car, trolling moto and lawn mower batteries all of which I remove from the vehicle/appliance and bring indoors to a warmer climate for monthly rotational juicing. At 20 to -20f batteries don't do well even when charged frequently. I might just remove the RT battery and place it with the rest for winter juicing..

Many different avenues offering excellent solutions in the thread.. one just needs to pick the one that works for them.
 

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I said right at the beginning that I have no idea how CANBus works but I thought I understood the principe behind it. What you are telling me now Pad seems to go against everything that anyone has ever explained about the system and I’m trying to get my head around what makes a charger CANBus compatible. Why have we all been led down the path that we need a CANBus compatible charger in order to charge through the DIN socket ?

When I read the specifications of your charger on the link you provided - it does state that the lighter socket must be ‘hot’ when the key is out of the ignition. To me, this means either the lighter socket (or DIN socket) is direct wired to the battery or the CANBus is live to effectively ‘switch on’ the socket. We know on the 21/22 RT that the DIN socket remains live for a period of time (up to 15 minutes according to the manual if sufficient current is being drawn) after the ignition is turned off. Therefore, I assume during this time, your charger will charge the battery as the socket is still ‘live’.

What happens after that period of up to 15 minutes ? Does the charger disconnect when the bike shuts down the socket or does your charger keep the socket ‘live’ ? If you plug your charger into the socket after the 15 minutes (when the bike has already switched the socket off), will your charger activate the CANBus to turn the socket back ‘live’ again and therefore start charging ? Is this what makes a charger CANBus compatible - that it can talk to the CANBus to open and keep the socket live ?



Is this not another way of saying CANBus compatible ?
People have been referring to CANbus quite incorrectly over the years, but it had been too trivial for those of us who understand what it is to make constant corrections! If you really get into more nitty gritty of it, here is something that somebody else tried to explain, in this forum, back in 2006: Canbus 101

Simply stated, you can think of CANbus as an acronym of two separate entities. CAN - Controller Area Network, sorry my memory is a little faulty when I refer to the "C" as Communication before, but its function IS for communication, and so you can think of CAN as a "language". The "bus" part refers to an "electrical bus", which can be described as (using somebody else's words):

"A bus in electrical parlance is any common connection to which any number of loads are connected in parallel, all being fed more-or-less the same voltage. There are power busses, audio busses, video busses, and in computing address busses and data busses."

All 12V components and devices on our vehicles are connected in electrical parallel circuit! So, that should help you to understand the post that I had referenced above!

As for the details of what you read (as highlighted), it actually goes to prove what I said about CANbus having nothing to do with how this operate! Keep in mind the date for when that statement was made! The statement is quite correct, as applied to my old '07 RT! The charger had to be connected to the port while the aux port is "alive" (active) or the onboard computer for the old '07 RT would not know that a charger was connected. OTOH, when I moved to the '14/'15 RT, that doesn't apply anymore. I was able to plug the charger in at any time, and the onboard computer would recognize it and keeps the charger "alive". It is also true with my present '21 RT! Note that all 4 RTs have CANbus!! The difference is what BMW did with the programming within these computers. The charger stays alive the whole time that it is connected on the '14/'15 RT, but to be honest I have to say that I don't know for my present '21 RT. I have tried it to see that it works when I discovered that only the front port would allow charging, and then I changed over to use the directly connected pig tail, because it's more convenient for me. I always spin the bike around 180° right after riding it into the garage, and the electrical outlet in my garage are in the rear wall!

In theory, being CANbus compatible, in the case of a charger, means that it has the capability to tell the onboard computer that it is present. However, my experience tells me that the onboard computer also use other means to find out the same information! OTOH, it is quite possible that, even though it is not claimed, my charger is actually CANbus compatible! CANbus protocol is not proprietary to BMW, and I believe that it had been around in use for automotive before BMW finally adopted it for use on our motorcycles. That's why I am most interested to find out from Fast1 if a known non-CANbus compatible charger actually works. I shall never stop learning . . . . .
 
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The following is for general interests only. It's not going to help the OP in anyway, but it should show that a non-CANbus compatible charger can work, which is what I have been saying. CANbus itself has very little to no influence as to whether the charger will work or not. It's all depend on how the onboard computer is programmed. To be clear, I am talking about via the aux socket here, and not about direct-connect.

This is the charger that I have been using since owning my old '07 RT:

View attachment 180924

Info from the spec can be seen on a very much outdated site: Battery Doc Sport Charger and Maintainer | ChargingChargers.com

DON'T go looking for it. It was manufactured by a small company that was bought out by a much larger company, Wirthco, quite a few years ago!

I often look at Webbike world site for reviews, and they did a review of this very charger back in 2005, and I wouldn't call it a good review. Note though, that BMW only started implementing CANbus on their bikes since 2005, and this charger was being sold long before that! Here's the Webbikeworld review:


To be clear, I am not saying that the charger that Fast1 is looking at WILL work in the aux socket, but rational tells me that it might. That rational is also reinforced by the old post that I had quoted earlier.

I am now anxious to hear from Fast1 to see if that charger will work, or not!!! ;)
Unrelated to CAN bus - if that charger is not configured for AGM batteries (which it doesn't look like), you are likely shortening the life of the battery in the RT. More recent chargers have an AGM setting which limits the current flow to the battery which preserves the AGM's slow discharge/recharge rate. High charge rate chargers for flooded cell batteries have been known to kill AGM or gel batteries.
 

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OTOH, I have been using 3rd party charger without any "compatibility" claims, using the aux port, quite successfully since my '07 RT!!! How would you explain that one? Electronically speaking, there are no reasons why any "intelligent" charger shouldn't work.
With my '05 RT (hex-head with canbus), I would charge the battery through the aux port, but you had to turn the key on, then turn the key off, then plug in the charger while dash lights were still on. It's in the Rider's Manual. It would keep Can-bus working until battery fully charged, then it shut off and wouldn't charge again until you repeated this process...so... yeah, it works through the aux plug way, but no, you can't maintain the battery for a whole winter season that way unless you come back and turn the bike on every few weeks.

I'm not a believer in leaving a charger plugged in all the time anyway. I always charge until full , then repeat every few weeks. The glass mat batteries hold a charge for a long time without going down if you don't have a drain on them.

I don't think the new bikes are any different in the way the Aux plugs work. My '22 GSA came with a dealer-installed, direct to battery SAE plug that hangs down by right foot peg. It has a little rubber cover. I just unplug the cover and plug in there to charge as the dealer did when I need to. My dealer puts them on any bike that sits in their showroom.

:alien:
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
With my '05 RT (hex-head with canbus), My '22 GSA came with a dealer-installed, direct to battery SAE plug that hangs down by right foot peg. It has a little rubber cover. I just unplug the cover and plug in there to charge as the dealer did when I need to. My dealer puts them on any bike that sits in their showroom.

:alien:
Same thing my 22 RT came with right from the dealer, who fitted them on all their new BMW inventory.
 
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