Interestingly enough, a custom seat (truly a custom seat -- discussing my objectives before making the seat) eliminated my desire for bar risers, or a peg lowering kit. I haven't thought about either since receiving my custom seat from Bill Mayer Saddles.flienlow said:Fishing for feedback on bar risers and peg lowering kit for my 2010. What has your experience been?
That kinda freaked me. I expected the pegs to scrape but my toes hit first, too.05Train said:....The only downside is that I've dragged both toes through fast corners.
Over the space of about three years I added barbacks (I think they were HeliBars) and the Suburban Machinery peg lowering kit. Much more comfortable now although the toe-dragging thing was a surprise to me, too. OK once you get used to it but the first couple of times were unsettling.12R12RT said:That kinda freaked me. I expected the pegs to scrape but my toes hit first, too.
Tom
I usually keep it in the upper most position.12R12RT said:flienlow -
What position is your seat in? Upper?
Tom
Or......dadicool59 said:If you enjoy carving corners, do not, I repeat, do not install lowered pegs.
My bike came with them installed by the previous owner. It reminded me of riding my old HD through corners.
I wore the peg studs down to about 50% in no time at all, not to mention the horrible experience of setting yourself up for a beautiful corner entry only to be wrestling the bike to stay on your side of the road as the peg drags and wants to take your foot off the bike as you go.
If you dont like riding your bike like that, knock yourself out.![]()
I was looking for some confirmation that the Helibars did indeed stress the lines too much, especialy the brake line. Thank you. The head mechanic at my dealer's, a very competent man, plainly refused to install them on my 12012 RT, saying that the relocation of the brake line would probably end up with something breaking on the not so long run. Now, I am expecing a reply form Heli to get a complete refund, becaus they state that all lines «are retained», period.DocCarroll said:I tried to install Heli Bar Backs on my 2011 RT. The two cables that come off the throttle side grip were too short. I had to return the Bar Backs. I did install the rider peg lowering kit. They are easy to install and work great.
Im a little confused by this message?05Train said:Or......
Make sure your corner mechanics are correct and hang off the bike when you know you're approaching the limit of the lean angle. Many riders find themselves dragging hard parts because they're not properly set up for the corner and apex late, which forces them to lean farther than they'd otherwise need to in order to get through. If you find you still need more, just slide your butt towards the inside of the corner and keep the bike further upright.
I've got maybe 1/4" worth of chicken strips on my tires, and I've dragged my toes, not my pegs. That's due to body positioning and (in one case) a really ugly line.
Actually, as a safety measure, late apex is a good thing and the line I ride. A late apex keeps you out path of an oncoming vehicle crossing the center line in a curve.05Train said:Or......
Make sure your corner mechanics are correct and hang off the bike when you know you're approaching the limit of the lean angle. Many riders find themselves dragging hard parts because they're not properly set up for the corner and apex late, which forces them to lean farther than they'd otherwise need to in order to get through. If you find you still need more, just slide your butt towards the inside of the corner and keep the bike further upright.
I've got maybe 1/4" worth of chicken strips on my tires, and I've dragged my toes, not my pegs. That's due to body positioning and (in one case) a really ugly line.
I don't know which is the limiting factor, and that's not really important. You can go faster through a corner using less lean angle if you're off the bike. I'm assuming when you say "steer", you mean "countersteer". If that's the case, then the lean and the weight shift are what makes the bike follow the line.dadicool59 said:Im a little confused by this message?
If you are saying that the limit of the lean angle in this case is the footpegs and not the tyre surface then surely reducing the available angle isnt a positive regardless if you weight shift? Less available angle is less angle right?
I tend to steer the bike rather than lean it?
Fit them by all means, there will always be someone on Ebay that will buy them if you find you dont like them.
Re-fitting the return spring is a little tricky but master that and its a 10 minute job.
True, but it also requires more lean to execute the corner. A late apex makes the ride more fun though precisely because you're tightening the corners rather than straightening them.Atomicman said:Actually, as a safety measure, late apex is a good thing and the line I ride. A late apex keeps you out path of an oncoming vehicle crossing the center line in a curve.
Not true if you use the entire lane and start your corner out at the fog line (as you should to give more down the road visibility) and finish at the fog line hitting a late apex, you have essentially straightend out your line and corner and shortened the distance traveled and also carried more speed.05Train said:I don't know which is the limiting factor, and that's not really important. You can go faster through a corner using less lean angle if you're off the bike. I'm assuming when you say "steer", you mean "countersteer". If that's the case, then the lean and the weight shift are what makes the bike follow the line.
True, but it also requires more lean to execute the corner. A late apex makes the ride more fun though precisely because you're tightening the corners rather than straightening them.