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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am thinking of putting bar backs on my RT. Both Ilium and Suburban Machinery makes nice ones.

I was thinking of going with Suburban so I don't have to change out the brake line.

Suburban is .894" up and .447" back.
Ilium is .898 and 1" back.

I was curious if the change in handlebar postilion affects handling?

Has anyone gone with any of the above bar backs?

Thanks,
Ken
 

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Wunderlich makes a nice adjustable set that does not require any changes to the brake and clutch lines:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ra8w_ehwWL8

No change in handling, seating position is much easier on the back. One thing these can do is to adjust the bars outward as well as back, so more leverage can be available just like on the BS and GSA bars. Net result will make an easier steering effort.
 

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Yes they do change handling. I had mine on for months. I have the Moto-Techinques. I recently decided to try agian without them. I was shocked how much better the bike handled without the BB's. The BB's move your COM back slightly on the bike and I found the bike much more responsive cornereing without the BB's due to the (even if it is slight) forward position.

It is not quite as comfortable, but I can manage that with some great riding position tips and tricks that have been posted here.

So, you will unfortunatley have to decide for yourself the trade off of comfort/handling.

One thing for sure, the BB's make the mirrors alot more user friendly!
 

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I tried to put Bar-backs on my 2011 RT. But the cables on the throttle side were too short. I didn't want to mess with changing out the cables so I returned the BB. :(
 

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DocCarroll said:
I tried to put Bar-backs on my 2011 RT. But the cables on the throttle side were too short. I didn't want to mess with changing out the cables so I returned the BB. :(
Doc, which barbacks did you try to use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The Surburban Machinery bar backs dont require changing any cables or lines. That's why m going to try this one.

With regards to handling etc, I'm thinking that changing a seat could be about the same difference as messing with the handlebars since seats such as RDL and Corbin sit you upright and therefore further from handlebars. You also sit higher. At least this is my personal experience.

This is why I want to try bar backs. I'm sitting higher and more upright and want to raise my hands to compensate.
Ken
 

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I put the HeliBars on my 2011 RT and had zero issues with the cables on either side. There is almost no increased tension on the left side with a full right. There is increased tension on the right side with a full left turn, but absolutely no binding. I had my dealer double check and they confirmed that there were no concerns with binding.
As far as handling, just having the bars slightly higher and slighter back toward the rider changes the riding posture slightly, but handling difference? I'd say NO.
I have no problems at all on any turn at speed and no issues on the slow speed parking lot type maneuvers either. I can go full left or right and lock to do figure 8's or U-turns with no problem at all.
For me at 5'8" and a 29 1/2" inseam, plus I guess some kind of ergonomic dynamics with my arm length and shoulders, the Hellibars were a big help in improving my comfort. Combined the Helibars with a throttle cramp buster and I can ride much longer with no tingling or cramping.
 

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Ken -

I went with the Suburban ones also for the brake line issue (most others stated you MAY have to get a longer brake line - one kit I can't remember which one included the brake line with their kit) --

l like them - handling improvement and mainly just enough of a backward move of your arms to get rid of that "pain between the shoulder blades" after a couple of hours - I think you'll enjoy them and it was a 10 min install they instruct to have some one to help you but a good blanket over the tank will do the trick - but then help is always nice - especially if she can hold your beer at the time!! (then you'll be done in 5 min!!)

enjoy ! - Happy riding

Chilly :)
 

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Illum bar backs are the ones that come with a longer brake cable. I've currently got the Suburban Machinery ones installed and am considering a switch to the Illum ones.
I think just a little farther back will set my handlebars up just right.

DC
 

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I researched bar risers for my 2010 RT, and here's my summary by vendor including cost and change in handlebar position. Most of these descriptions are from the vendors literature. From what I've seen from other postings, many of these bar risers work fine. Cost does not seem to be a factor, i.e., more $ is not necessarily better.

ps.
Some of these data/costs may be old from 2010 when I started compiling this list.

Wunderlich $119
- 25mm taller (0.984”).

Ilium $89.95
- Up .898" and back 1.032" for a total diagonal movement of 1.375". Stresses brake line.

- Part #11-600 ($149.95) bar backs for 2010-11 include extended front brake line and mounting manifold.

Suburban Machinery $99.95
- Net change .894” up, .447” back. No change to brake line.

Moto-Techniques $69.95
Moves bars up & back diagonally ~1" to unload weight from wrists & forearms and relax the neck. Uses stock control cables and requires no modifications. New bolts are supplied.

Vario Handlebar risers $235
- Allows a wide range of adjustment: The base position has the handlebars 30 mm (1.18”) higher than standard. Then the step-less adjustment allows them to be moved back toward the rider by up to 20 mm (0.78”). Additionally, each handle bar can be moved outwards by up to 25 mm (1”) from standard. This results in massive 50 mm (2”) overall increase in handlebar width for a true “touring” feeling.

Heli Bars $119
- Raise them 1" (25mm) and move them towards the rider 1" (25mm).

Touratech $129
- Raise the handlebar by approximately 20 mm (~.8”).

CVM Touring $75
- Bar Backs move handlebars 1 inch up, and 1 inch closer to rider.

Verholen R1200RT Adjustable Handlebar Risers (from Creative Cycle Concepts) $330
- With other risers, you've been able to move your handlebars up and back. Now ONLY from Verholen, not only do you get 25mm up, and 35 mm back, you also get handlebars that PIVOT on the Vario Handlebar Plate, by up to 15 degrees for each handlebar. That's a 1.7 inch diagonal rise , PLUS adjustable pivoting mounting plates that move your hand grips further away from the bike. Not only do you get relief for your neck shoulders and back, but you also get more elbow room and relief for your wrists.


I have the Verholen and have been happy with them except for the price. Please note that the handlebars only tilt AWAY from you from the standard stock position.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I put on the Suburban Machinery bar backs last night and they made a pleasant difference in comfort. The also look great. I'll post pictures later.

The bigger surprise is that handling is better. I find with the bars higher there is better leverage.
Ken
 

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I have two sets of Bar Risers from SSR. (Sling Shot Racing)
1 inch up and 1 inch back. I just installed a pair on my 2012 RT.
The neck and back pain is virtually gone.
They come with S/S bolts and instructions. Simple to install.
No issues with the clutch or brake lines on my 2012 RT.
I assume the same for other model years.
Good quality finish. They will work on the older RT 4 bolts and the newer 3 bolts.
If anyone wants a set let me know. I have two sets left.
$50.00 plus shipping for each. PM me for info.
 

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ken6217 said:
The Surburban Machinery bar backs dont require changing any cables or lines. That's why m going to try this one.

With regards to handling etc, I'm thinking that changing a seat could be about the same difference as messing with the handlebars since seats such as RDL and Corbin sit you upright and therefore further from handlebars. You also sit higher. At least this is my personal experience.

This is why I want to try bar backs. I'm sitting higher and more upright and want to raise my hands to compensate.
Ken

Sitting higher or back more does makes one tilt more forward given the same bar height. adjust one variable and it throws others off.

One thing I have found is that the rubber bumpers under the seat have compressed a lot and even in the high position, it's become more cramped over time such that I sometimes miss lifting the foot on the peg. I've come to the conclusion there is no perfect bike or even close to one.
 
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