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I'm thinking about moving back to dyno oil instead of synthetic.

I wonder if any one here have done this move before.

When I had to change oil during a trip, find the right synthetic to blend with the BMW I had was a big deal. After a lot of "I think this one will work" I decide to change oil and filter instead of just adding what I need.

So, I'm not sure on the benefits of using synthetic if I'm changing oil every 5K miles. Do you? Am I missing something here?

I already decided on using dyno on the rear and and transmission (80W90).

Would like to hear some opinions on that. THank you :)
 

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Dyno vs. Synthetic

I have considered that as well but am sticking with Syn for now. I doubt that you would have done any harm to add dyno to your synthetic while on the trip. Isn't that what the "synthetic blends" are?

A riding buddy of mine has about 190,000 mikles on a 2000 RT that uses conventional motor oil (MC specific) bought from WalMart at a buck or two a qt. He changes it regularly at a 3000-4000 interval and has had no issues other than a clutch at 130,000. Lubricants are so good now, that is almost never the problem.
 

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I think the biggest real difference is which ever one makes you sleep better. There's nothing magic about synthetic, it's nothing more than dino oil that meets "synthetic" specs. I guess synthetic makes me sleep better, cause I keep buying it. Mixing it is not a problem, you'll just create your own "synthetic blend".
 

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I use Castral 20w50 full synth for motor and Valvoline full synth 75w90 for trans & rear drive. Both easy to find at most auto parts store or Wally World If I know my trip will take me pass time for an oil change I bring an oil filter with me and the tools needed to do it on the road
 

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Since the LT has a dry clutch, there is no need for motorcycle specific oil.

You can get Mobil 1 15-50W at Wally world pretty much anywhere, and if you can make the room, carry a spare oil filter and related tools to do the job on the road....a 2 dollar drip tray can be purchased along with the oil, and places like Autozone wont mind if you pull up behind and do the service yourself, then let them dispose of your used oil.

I dont like frequent oil changes, so I stick with synthetic....not only on the LT, but my truck, wife's car, lawnmower, boat engine.....synthetic is NOT dino....
 

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This is only partly true and only for some synthetic oils. There are several types of products that are considered to be synthetic in North America.

True synthetic oil is manufactured from non-petroleum base products such as carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and methane. These products are not derived from any natural petrolium sources.

A second type of synthetic oil is made from "Syncrude" which is a hydrogenated and purified bimuten derived from the oil sands in Alberta, Canada. Syncrude is derived from natural sources but the product and process to create them bears little resemblance to refined natural oils.

The third type of product involves hydrocraking high grade mineral oil into a base stock (API Group III oils) with properties "almost" as good as manufactured synthetic base products . Again this is derived from natural oil sources but has little resemblance to normally refined oil products.

I know Amsoil and Mobil 1 are manufactured synthetics and there are probably others.

All that being said there are no compatibility issues between synthetic and natural engine oil products. If all I had access to was dino oil I would mix it with the synthetic in my engine as long as it met the specifications of the engine manufacturer. I would change back to my preferred oil at the next oil change.
 

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jwd98056 said:
This is only partly true and only for some synthetic oils. There are several types of products that are considered to be synthetic in North America.

True synthetic oil is manufactured from non-petroleum base products such as carbon dioxide, carbon monoxide, and methane. These products are not derived from any natural petrolium sources.

A second type of synthetic oil is made from "Syncrude" which is a hydrogenated and purified bimuten derived from the oil sands in Alberta, Canada. Syncrude is derived from natural sources but the product and process to create them bears little resemblance to refined natural oils.

The third type of product involves hydrocraking high grade mineral oil into a base stock (API Group III oils) with properties "almost" as good as manufactured synthetic base products . Again this is derived from natural oil sources but has little resemblance to normally refined oil products.

I know Amsoil and Mobil 1 are manufactured synthetics and there are probably others.

All that being said there are no compatibility issues between synthetic and natural engine oil products. If all I had access to was dino oil I would mix it with the synthetic in my engine as long as it met the specifications of the engine manufacturer. I would change back to my preferred oil at the next oil change.
Like I said, it all comes from Dinosoars, & not some kind of magic.
 

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oil debate

i think that other than the dreaded rear drive issue, and perhaps tires, oil preferences are the most common recurring theme on this site :)

it always amazes me how passionate people can get about their oil, oil change frequency, etc.....

as for me....i like synthetic ...im not real scientific....it just feels alot slicker to me which somehow i think is a good thing....as for what kind....i use one carried by walmart and autozone ....like it or not (not starting up a Wal-Mart debate) there are plenty of those everywhere you go.....as for how often....well....im shooting for every 5000 plus or minus some depending on weather, where i am, what all else the wife has lined up for me to do etc....

my LT's only got 92000 miles on it so far so I can't give any really statistically valid results to my methods at this point....but I will check back every 50,000 or so and let ya'll know if i have seen a need to make any changes ;)

since i havent posted anything in a while ill go ahead and throw in a vote for michelins over bridgestones tho ;)
 

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testing

well no replies on my michelin comment
what i was thinking was metzler

;)

CRS is really taking effect hard now days ;)
 

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Maybe I'm Chicken

I know all oils (and gas for that matter) are basically the same. Viscosity is about the only real difference.

Many years back, I made the change to all synthetic all the time. Cars, trucks, boats, mowers, etc. What drove me was one of my pilot friends who, although not technical, knew they used synthetics all the times in planes.

I guess if it is safe enough to run a turbine (even if it is a different formulation) it is probably good enough for everything else.

Or perhaps its just another form of Farkle :histerica :rotf:
 

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I've been working in an oil refinery for 30+ years & have been trying to figure out where synthetic oil comes from for a long time. Have you ever seen a synthetic oil refinery or factory? The best I can come up with is this. Everything in synthetic oil comes from crude oil after it is broken down into every product that comes from crude oil & that is a whole lot more than gasoline. The ingredients are put back together in the exact formular to meet "synthetic oil" specs. Which means it's a custom blend with less impurities, will stand up to more heat & has better lubricating values. It is still dino oil but, taken apart & put back together. I have been searching for an answer for years & this is the best I can come up with. You might have to be a coonass to understand what I just said, it's the best I can do.
 

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Big E,

Quit searching for chemical synthetic oil in an oil refinery. It is made in chemical plants. Some oil refineries do have an ethylene or olefin unit. They can then pipe, rail or ship it to a chemical plant to make synthetic oil. The largest supplier of PolyAlphaOlefin based synthetic oil in the US is Exxon Chemical.

Which oil refinery in LA do you work? I spent alot of time at Shell Norco, just west of New Orleans, doing mostly HS&E and gas treating there.
 

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Where does Exxon Chemical get it's feed stock to make the synthetic oil, from an Exxon refinery maybe? I worked at the Marathon Refinery for 31 years until this year, now I'm at a Marathon Gas Plant in west Africa.
 

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Damn, that's a long way from Prairieville Louisiana!!
 

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My wife used to work on an oil rig in Louisiana "back in the day." That was before she hurt her back. I forget what she did specifically, but I gather it was a general laborer..something to do with mud.

I've been considering switching all my vehicles over to ******, but haven't decided yet. I have never heard of an "oil related" failure of any kind, in any kind of engine, other than, "not enough."

About 15 years or so ago, I started running Wal-Mart's house brand oil in all my cars. Never had a bit of trouble, not even with my last Kia Sportage that had 197,000+ miles on it when I got rid of it this spring, and even then the engine was running like a watch.

Funny thing. Someone mentioned Castrol, and I believe that's the brand mentioned in my BMW's owners manual. The service manager at the (BMW) dealer where I bought my bike told me to use "anything but Castrol."

You think oil "discussions" are interesting here, you should hear the ones on outboard motor forums.
 

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strsout said:
I'm thinking about moving back to dyno oil instead of synthetic.

I wonder if any one here have done this move before.

When I had to change oil during a trip, find the right synthetic to blend with the BMW I had was a big deal. After a lot of "I think this one will work" I decide to change oil and filter instead of just adding what I need.

So, I'm not sure on the benefits of using synthetic if I'm changing oil every 5K miles. Do you? Am I missing something here?

I already decided on using dyno on the rear and and transmission (80W90).

Would like to hear some opinions on that. THank you :)
if you are changing oil every 5k or even 6k like bmw recomends you have no problem running DYNO unless it is extreeme use

so in reality since Synth. is supposed to be sooo much better, you should be able to do your oil changes further apart, BUT if you do that you can void your warranty!

so why spend double for synth oil?
 

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CajunBass said:
I've been considering switching all my vehicles over to ******, but haven't decided yet. I have never heard of an "oil related" failure of any kind, in any kind of engine, other than, "not enough."

About 15 years or so ago, I started running Wal-Mart's house brand oil in all my cars. Never had a bit of trouble, not even with my last Kia Sportage that had 197,000+ miles on it when I got rid of it this spring, and even then the engine was running like a watch.

Funny thing. Someone mentioned Castrol, and I believe that's the brand mentioned in my BMW's owners manual. The service manager at the (BMW) dealer where I bought my bike told me to use "anything but Castrol."
funny, you must use BMW of Orlando, that is the same thing they told me, I looked at him and laughed, told him I was a mechanic way to long for him to feed me that BS

I ran castrol in to many vehicles for way over 100k miles with no problems,

I love oil threads, 90 percent of it is pure BS.

you have your proof with 197k running cheap wal mart oil

the biggest concern with running oils is not to mix base grades, that is when you sttart sludge buildup
 

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tmgs said:
=====================
I ran castrol in to many vehicles for way over 100k miles with no problems,
Me too!
I love oil threads, 90 percent of it is pure BS.
Way more than just 90% in my opinion. ;)
 

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tmgs said:
if you are changing oil every 5k or even 6k like bmw recomends you have no problem running DYNO unless it is extreeme use

so in reality since Synth. is supposed to be sooo much better, you should be able to do your oil changes further apart, BUT if you do that you can void your warranty!

so why spend double for synth oil?
Synthetic oils in general will provide easier start up in cold weather and more protection in hot weather. Chemical synthetic oil molecules are designed and built to be the best molecule for lubrication and stability. All of these molecules are identical. Petroleum molecules number in the thousands of different types. Most are stable and good lubricants. Some are not. This is why chemical synthetics are more robust, evaporate less, produce less varnish and sludge, more efficient and last longer. This is why synthetic oils offer longer warranties than petroleum oils and as long as they don't fail, will not void a factory warranty even with extended oil change intervals. This is the law. If they do fail, make sure the oil has their own parts and labor warranty.

For those who would like to learn more about motor oils and lubrication, take a look at http://www.motor-oil-engineers.com/Motor Oil Engineers PDF.pdf . For those who would like to compare 26 popular motorcycle oils that were tested using 10 standard ASTM test methods by an independent nonprofit lab, check out http://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf .
 

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CajunBass said:
Funny thing. Someone mentioned Castrol, and I believe that's the brand mentioned in my BMW's owners manual. The service manager at the (BMW) dealer where I bought my bike told me to use "anything but Castrol."
Have your service manager dig up a copy of the BMW oil "Material Safety Data Sheet" for the BMW oil. He is required by law to have a copy on hand. Look in the upper right corner of the document. It should say the oil or document was produced by Castrol. I contacted BMW about a year or two ago and they told me Castrol produced BMW oil. However, it may not be the same exact formulation that Castrol uses in their products.
 
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