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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, me again. Does anyone out there have pictures of their fuse block installation on their K1200LT? I would love to see some and find out which products you used and if you used an isolation relay or not. I'm trying to do this right the first time. Thanks, Robert
 

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Old Slow Guy in A Fast Car
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THIS is what I used on my Lt. It fits right on top of the battery. Sorry no pics of it. I wired it to a "trigger" relay so it turns off with the bike. Here is a basic trigger Relay. # 86 terminal I ran to the rear seat heater power. # 87 will go to the fuse block. #30 to the Battery & #85 is ground (I went to battery ground) Hope this helps.

 

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Hey Robert,
There are several suppliers for the fuse boxes. I went to O'Reilys and picked up the box, a basic relay, and the kind of fuse that illuminates when it blows. I wired the relay trigger thru the rear seat heat because it is in the load shed circuit. I mounted the box and relay above the right rear saddlebag, in a hidden area between frame rails, under the passenger seat. I didn't want to mount above the battery, for access purposes. I can take a pic later after work. Make all your connections weatherproof!
 

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katnapinn said:
THIS is what I used on my Lt. It fits right on top of the battery. Sorry no pics of it. I wired it to a "trigger" relay so it turns off with the bike. Here is a basic trigger Relay. # 86 terminal I ran to the rear seat heater power. # 87 will go to the fuse block. #30 to the Battery & #85 is ground (I went to battery ground) Hope this helps.
Excellent choice in fuse blocks.
 

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katnapinn said:
THIS is what I used on my Lt. It fits right on top of the battery. Sorry no pics of it. I wired it to a "trigger" relay so it turns off with the bike. Here is a basic trigger Relay. # 86 terminal I ran to the rear seat heater power. # 87 will go to the fuse block. #30 to the Battery & #85 is ground (I went to battery ground) Hope this helps.

I did something like that on my RT. Instead of the Hella, I used a Bosch style (knockoffs!) SPDT relay that I had gotten off eBay for about $4. Your Hella, as shown is a SPST relay, and I wanted a double throw (DT) relay for a specific reason. I hooked up the hot terminal of my battery tender's pigtail lead to the "normally close" contact of the relay and the other to ground terminal on my fuse box (or directly to the -ve terminal on the battery, if you wish). I tapped into the aux. power outlet on the bike to trigger the relay (for me, it was readily accessible). With my set up, I can hook up the battery tender when the bike is turned off, and when the bike is switched on, the fuse box gets power and disconnect the tender's pigtail lead. All of the electrical connections are external to the battery, and I have just one 12 gauge wire running to each terminals of the battery. I also use an inline fuse block in the 12 gauge line going to the battery, with a 30 amps fuse.

My fuse box is epoxied to a plastic base along with the relay, and I use the bike's battery hold-down strap to hold the plate down on top of the battery (the fuse box is at one end of the plate, and the relay is at the other end, leaving space in the middle for the strap).

Oh, one other tip. I didn't like the fact that there were exposed metal on the fuse box that I used that will be energized when the bike is turned on. So, I went to the drug store and bought a cheap nail varnish (99 cents), bright red, and use that to paint any exposed metal that I didn't want to be accidentally grounded. Nail varnish makes a very convenient insulator, and it sticks!
 

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Here are picts of my recent install of the Fuzeblock (http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=1#board)
- in my opinion a well engineered fuse block with the motorcyclist in mind.

On my former LT I had a Centech AP-1 (http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml)
but I switched because of the quality and details of the Fuzeblock. There are some pros and cons:

Pros for Centech AP-1:
1. Unit allows you pull out the fuses without taking off the cover
(This is convenient especially late at night on the side of the road troubleshooting)
2. Lower cost

Cons for Centech AP-1:
1. It is possible to drop fuses into the unit - ask me how I know
2. Possible to short out fuses
3. Unit is very open and I believe built more for an auto enthusiast
4. All connected devices require an external relay for proper wiring

Pros for Fuzeblock:
1. Unit has a cover with documentation - better protection for the fuses
2. Unit has an on board relay
3. Easier to wire up devices as in most cases for an LT you so not need auxiliary relays
4. Unit allows for switched and unswitched connections - same as Centech AP-2
5. The Fuzeblock site - totally dedicated to the motorcyclist with excellent documentation

Cons for Fuzeblock:
1. Need to remove cover to troubleshoot - replace fuses
2. Initial Price
3. Maybe use of micro fuses - not as available

To mount on the top of the battery cover I used heavy duty velcro and I made all the
wires long enough that I could pull the Fuzeblock off and get it out of the way for
battery maintenance and replacement. No problems with an Odyssey PC 680 battery
(http://www.odysseybattery.com/powerspecs.html) and the seat clearance is not an issue.







 

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Discussion Starter #10
dfinazzo said:
Here are picts of my recent install of the Fuzeblock (http://www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=1#board)
- in my opinion a well engineered fuse block with the motorcyclist in mind.

On my former LT I had a Centech AP-1 (http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap1.shtml)
but I switched because of the quality and details of the Fuzeblock. There are some pros and cons:

Pros for Centech AP-1:
1. Unit allows you pull out the fuses without taking off the cover
(This is convenient especially late at night on the side of the road troubleshooting)
2. Lower cost

Cons for Centech AP-1:
1. It is possible to drop fuses into the unit - ask me how I know
2. Possible to short out fuses
3. Unit is very open and I believe built more for an auto enthusiast
4. All connected devices require an external relay for proper wiring

Pros for Fuzeblock:
1. Unit has a cover with documentation - better protection for the fuses
2. Unit has an on board relay
3. Easier to wire up devices as in most cases for an LT you so not need auxiliary relays
4. Unit allows for switched and unswitched connections - same as Centech AP-2
5. The Fuzeblock site - totally dedicated to the motorcyclist with excellent documentation

Cons for Fuzeblock:
1. Need to remove cover to troubleshoot - replace fuses
2. Initial Price
3. Maybe use of micro fuses - not as available

To mount on the top of the battery cover I used heavy duty velcro and I made all the
wires long enough that I could pull the Fuzeblock off and get it out of the way for
battery maintenance and replacement. No problems with an Odyssey PC 680 battery
(http://www.odysseybattery.com/powerspecs.html) and the seat clearance is not an issue.
Very nice install! I love neat wiring!
Robert
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cochinosucio said:
Hey Robert,
There are several suppliers for the fuse boxes. I went to O'Reilys and picked up the box, a basic relay, and the kind of fuse that illuminates when it blows. I wired the relay trigger thru the rear seat heat because it is in the load shed circuit. I mounted the box and relay above the right rear saddlebag, in a hidden area between frame rails, under the passenger seat. I didn't want to mount above the battery, for access purposes. I can take a pic later after work. Make all your connections weatherproof!
I think that is the location I will use. Looks like enough room on either side. One side for fusebox and the other for trailer relays. Velcro stuck to the saddlebag plastic looks like the ticket. I like the idea of picking up the relay signal off of the heated seat feed wire, makes it simpler. I am leaning toward the Eastern Beaver PC-8 circuit fusebox and relay combo with two feed fuses.

Robert
 

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Scouter-50 said:
Hi guys, me again. Does anyone out there have pictures of their fuse block installation on their K1200LT? I would love to see some and find out which products you used and if you used an isolation relay or not. I'm trying to do this right the first time. Thanks, Robert
Here are two pics of my basic installation. I bought the plastic tray to mount it in to ensure no shorting against the battery. I have since added a number of accessories so the installation no longer looks quite as clean. I can take current pics if you want to see more, but this shows the basics. I like the Fuzeblock for the most part and it has been reliable for the three years since I installed it.

https://picasaweb.google.com/fuzeblocks/K1200LTInstallation#
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Voyager said:
Here are two pics of my basic installation. I bought the plastic tray to mount it in to ensure no shorting against the battery. I have since added a number of accessories so the installation no longer looks quite as clean. I can take current pics if you want to see more, but this shows the basics. I like the Fuzeblock for the most part and it has been reliable for the three years since I installed it.
I guess the pics didn't make it.
Thanks, Robert.
 

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Scouter-50 said:
I guess the pics didn't make it.
Thanks, Robert.
Pilot error. I forgot to paste in the link. I just corrected the post.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Voyager said:
Pilot error. I forgot to paste in the link. I just corrected the post.
Very nice! Where did you get the tray?
Robert.
 

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Scouter-50 said:
Very nice! Where did you get the tray?
Robert.
I knew someone would ask that and I cab't remember now. Let me search a little when I get a moment and see what I can find.
 
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