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meese said:
My '02 is pushing 70K, and I fully expect to see 100K before it gets traded up for a newer LT.
Its good to know you're getting your money's worth out of this one
and I expect you'll be keeping the HID when you trade up :)

For what its worth I ordered mine today
 

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messenger13 said:
An EXCELLENT suggestion at that!!! I am definitely utilizing a relay on my HID low-beam installation . . . and I intend on inserting a switch to the hot-lead of my relay. This is so inexpensive and easy, why wouldn't anyone do this. Oh yea...laziness. I almost forgot.
How about in addition to the relay, and instead of the switch.... a TIME DELAY relay?
More expensive....yes, but much more sophisticated, and you avoid that "mission control" look.
Just a thought!
 

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MattyK said:
How about in addition to the relay, and instead of the switch.... a TIME DELAY relay?
After contemplating my installation (while the HID kit is still enroute), I have decided to go with a couple of AutoSwitches. Those are the invisible switches that utilize the turn-signal cancellation button. And both types of AutoSwitches can be hooked up at the same time, giving you the capability of switching two devices on & off with the turn-signal cancellation button. Pretty slick.
 

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That is pretty slick. I had inquired about a TD relay from an electronics supplier, but the autoswitch seems to be more bike specific. The price is right too!
Thanks for the tip.
 

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meese said:
For less than you paid for the Motolights, you could have gotten both low and high HID.
Hello Meese,

I have posted another reply here on this point, have you fitted both low and high yourself? Was it any more difficult to fit both? I am really curious why anyone would only fit one HID as opposed to both?

Thanks

Mark
 

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Lights-On / Lights-Off

cfell said:
Yeah.. Motolights on the calipers.. Then the PIAA's under the nose will give you a great profile!...

I get power for the "control" circuit from the seat heating circuit because it pulls such low current. Also, when you crank the motor, that circuit automatically shuts off to reduce current draw and subsequently will de-energize the relay, turning off the lights...now isn't that cool? Grif taught me that!
________________________________________________________

Think about this..

When you turn your ignition key to the 'on position', lights come on, push starter button, lights go out, engine on, and lights come back on... You have applied power to, turned on your PIAA's twice for every time you start your bike. Among other things, bulb life is affected by the number of cycles applied to the bulb. So you are effectively reducing your bulb life the way you have it connected. Many report a one year or less bulb life with the PIAA's. PIAA honors a 1 year replacement warranty thru your dealer, or retail source.

I used my PIAA switch connected to the parking lamp, for switched power, but always turned lights off before killing ignition, and turning lights on after ignition start. Between both bikes, I used the same set of 1100PX lights and never had a bulb failure, except when I dropped one off of my workbench one day ! , so I had to replace that one... :(
 

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I only have the low beam HID for three reasons.


1) It was the only thing available 5 years ago when I got it.

2) It was $500 for a single kit.

3) A modulating high beam is more useful in daytime city traffic than an HID high beam.

I have a set of PIAA 910 lights (110W each) that I will mount for high beam supplements, but obviously only when I'm way out in the boonies.

For $230, I'd probably get both low and high beam if I was doing the upgrade today (and didn't care about the headlight modulator).
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
messenger13 said:
After contemplating my installation (while the HID kit is still enroute), I have decided to go with a couple of AutoSwitches. Those are the invisible switches that utilize the turn-signal cancellation button. And both types of AutoSwitches can be hooked up at the same time, giving you the capability of switching two devices on & off with the turn-signal cancellation button. Pretty slick.
Hey Joe, I have the Autoswitch for my single pair (so far) of Motolights, but wasn't aware you could have multiple Autoswitches. How does that work as you describe it (i.e., both connectd to the turn-signal cancel button)? I hold the cancel button for 1 second to turn on/off my Motolights.
 

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The "other" BMW AutoSwitch requires 2 taps within 2 seconds to turn On/Off the aux device. And yes, both can operate simulataneously.

I received the traditional one...but the new model is on back order from Cycle Gadgets. :(
 

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Howard:

I'm impressed with you "State" logo and fill-in. How'd you do that?

Also, I've seen a "hardcopy" so to speak where folks put a similar decal on their bike and then fill in each state as they get there. Any idea where to get these?

Thanks,

Doug
 

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I'm not Howard :) but you can check this thread for links to the fill-in-the-state map logos.

For the vehicle stickers, check with local RV/motorhome shops. Or Google gives this link and this link.

I do remember these map stickers being fairly large though. I had one on my XS1100 20+ years ago, but it had a huge trunk with a large flat surface that worked well for this sort of thing. I don't know if there's a large enough flat area that would work on an LT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
DougLaird said:
Howard:

I'm impressed with you "State" logo and fill-in. How'd you do that?

Also, I've seen a "hardcopy" so to speak where folks put a similar decal on their bike and then fill in each state as they get there. Any idea where to get these?

Thanks,

Doug
Hi Doug,

The state maps are available at various web sites, including here.
You can read more about this in this thread. You'll have to do some experimenting with saving the completed map and posting it as part of your signature line on this web site, but it's very doable.

I don't know where you can get the magnetic/decal versions of these.
 

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Easy way to put a map on the bike. Trace a outline of the US in marker on the bike then use colored ones to fill in the states. Overheads work the best for tracing because you can make it any size you want it to be on the bike. But this comes from a guy that hardly ever washes his bike except for rain. Washing just takes up riding time.
:histerica :bmw:
 

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I realize the failings of halogens and the need for efficiency in vehicle lighting, and also would NEVER install an annoying and rage inducing modulator (MHO). I put this pair of $90 HIDs on before a trip up the ALCAN, and was quite satisfied. Also swapped my main bulb out for a $10 100/130 watt, but will upgrade that to a 55w Hi/Lo HID after I shop one up. Here in Alaska, we deal with long nights, plenty of wildlife, and rural conditions, so lighting is often one of the first upgrades. Great discussion, just thought I'd share my project. Oh, and LED strips along the engine case help for side visibility and as courtesy lights.
 

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Re: Great!

Yeah.. Motolights on the calipers.. Then the PIAA's under the nose will give you a great profile!...

Now, In case you aren't familiar with it.. don't forget to connect them using fused circuit and relay's. The PIAA's kit I have includes mounts for under the nosecone, fused relay and water resistant switch. I don't know what your Motolights come with.

I get power for the "control" circuit from the seat heating circuit because it pulls such low current. Also, when you crank the motor, that circuit automatically shuts off to reduce current draw and subsequently will de-energize the relay, turning off the lights...now isn't that cool? Grif taught me that!

Pull your power directly from the battery + (red) side... go to the fuse then feed the relay "load" side from it. If you have 2 sets of lights, use a seperate fuse feed for each relay.

Some folks install a "bus" so they can easily plug in more circuits to the + side of the battery.

So, anyway, best of luck.. take pics "before-n-after" so you can see the improvement! Then post them here!
The more often you turn off/on, cycle the PIAA lights, the shorter lifespan you will get out of the bulbs ??? I have always recommended, independent switching, in other words, turn on lights using switch, after starting and turning off lights before turning off ignition...
 
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