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Discussion Starter #1
Has been determined that I have a leaky crankcase vent and will require pulling the throttle body assembly to get to it. Have the bike torn down doing a lot of other maintenance and upgrades so now is as good of a time as any. Looking for a tutor to watch over what I am doing. Anyone in the PNW that can assist?

Know my profile shows Appleton, WI but I actually live in Port Townsend, WA.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Here is the starting point and then how I hung my TBs once they were free. This was for a clutch job. But I'll also add that the leaking breather will not cause more than a mess on top of the engine. It will not affect engine running.
 

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Here is the starting point and then how I hung my TBs once they were free. This was for a clutch job. But I'll also add that the leaking breather will not cause more than a mess on top of the engine. It will not affect engine running.
Your mailbox is full John.
 

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Here is the starting point and then how I hung my TBs once they were free. This was for a clutch job. But I'll also add that the leaking breather will not cause more than a mess on top of the engine. It will not affect engine running.
I see you kept the airbox attached. Did you also keep the throttle cables attached? Clymers is showing the airbox coming off separately. Less I have to take apart, the better!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The airbox comes off pretty easily but that is not enough for changing the crankcase vent.
Thanks. I'll check it out in the Clymers manual.
 

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....
.... But I'll also add that the leaking breather will not cause more than a mess on top of the engine. It will not affect engine running.
John,
I fully agree with you. In another thread that Richard opened about his other engine problems, I gave him similar warning and list of parts to order/replace while the TB are removed (4 manifold rubber stubs, 4 manifolds O-ring...).

Based on symptoms and a GS911 realtime log, I suspect he has some air-leaks from under TB somewhere - it would NOT be cost/time effective to skip/save on these parts and have to go back there in a 1 or 2 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
John,
In another thread that Richard opened about his other engine problems, I already gave him that warning and list of parts to order/replace while the TB are removed (4 manifold rubber stubs, 4 manifolds O-ring...).

Based on symptoms and a GS911 realtime log, I suspect he has some air-leaks from under TB somewhere - it would NOT be cost/time effective to skip/save on these parts and have to go back there in a 1 or 2 years.
Already have them in my online cart. Just want to make sure there aren't other things I need to order. Too far from a dealer to run and get the parts. Thanks for the detailed list.
 

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I agree. I just did a clutch job and was going to replace the breather for the guy but it was pristine. Turns out he had it done last year! Just did not want to get his hopes up that the breather would dove the issue. But going in that far he should finally find the root cause.
 

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Already have them in my online cart. Just want to make sure there aren't other things I need to order. Too far from a dealer to run and get the parts. Thanks for the detailed list.
In list I gave you in other thread, I just realize that I did not include the 4 non-resusable UPPER clamps for the rubber manifolds stubs (part #6 in this diagram):
MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 05-09 (89V3)

I have re-used them in the past, however it is a pain to reshape them correctly for proper tension on install (thus I forgot to include them in list). I would rather have you have spend another $US$ 9 than see you with air-leak or call my name with bad words during reinstall ;-)

By the way, you will need some kind of pliers for these Oetiker clamps (also called EAR clamps). Such tool is easy to find in automotive store.
http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-18500060-Stepless-stainless-standard/dp/B008L4874S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1419338576&sr=1-1&keywords=oetiker+clamps
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In list I gave you in other thread, I just realize that I did not include the 4 non-resusable UPPER clamps for the rubber manifolds stubs (part #6 in this diagram):
MAX BMW Motorcycles - BMW Parts & Technical Diagrams - K1200LT 05-09 (89V3)

I have re-used them in the past, however it is a pain to reshape them correctly for proper tension on install (thus I forgot to include them in list). I would rather have you have spend another $US$ 9 than see you with air-leak or call my name with bad words during reinstall ;-)

By the way, you will need some kind of pliers for these Oetiker clamps (also called EAR clamps). Such tool is easy to find in automotive store.
http://www.amazon.com/Oetiker-18500060-Stepless-stainless-standard/dp/B008L4874S/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1419338576&sr=1-1&keywords=oetiker+clamps

:) That is why I didn't place the order last night. Had a feeling something else would pop up that I needed.

I have a set of the pliers already. Just received them because I was tired of using a side cutter to set the clamps on the fuel filter so I finally got the right tool.
 

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Already have them in my online cart. Just want to make sure there aren't other things I need to order. Too far from a dealer to run and get the parts. Thanks for the detailed list.
To save you another order later...
One more thing to watch during this whole TB operation: do not loose the small metal junction in the cruise-cable (between cruise-unit and TB) other wise you will need to go back into another part order ;-)

I have seen cases where it just feel on the floor when the tension is removed from cable during this whole operation. See this thread to better understand what is that small part:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/73517-cruise-control-cable-adjustment.html
 

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Discussion Starter #14
To save you another order later...
One more thing to watch during this whole TB operation: do not loose the small metal junction in the cruise-cable (between cruise-unit and TB) other wise you will need to go back into another part order ;-)

I have seen cases where it just feel on the floor when the tension is removed from cable during this whole operation. See this thread to better understand what is that small part:
http://www.bmwlt.com/forums/k1200lt/73517-cruise-control-cable-adjustment.html
Of course I just hit the submit button on my order when your post came in. Guess I will need to be careful with that so I don't have to order a $4 part. Would it help for me to put some tape around that area of the cruise cable to keep it from falling out?
 

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...
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... Guess I will need to be careful with that so I don't have to order a $4 part. Would it help for me to put some tape around that area of the cruise cable to keep it from falling out?
Of course some tape will help with that small piece.

I always remove all cables to have TB on bench for full cleaning. BUT... as JZEILER and others have warned you: removing all cables is NOT needed and could be a can-of-worms. I agree, keep it simple.

The only time that you will wish to have TB on bench is when removing the 4 manifolds rubber stubs attached to TB (from under) with these Ear-Clamp: not a lot of room to work.
 
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