[AntRT]

Ran into a guy that did that on his GS, says you just push it and hold it in for 2 seconds and it turns the lights on/off. What a great idea I thought, would have been nice if I bothered to ask him how he did it before I took off

Anyone?

 

[Dick]

Ran into a guy that did that on his GS, says you just push it and hold it in for 2 seconds and it turns the lights on/off. What a great idea I thought, would have been nice if I bothered to ask him how he did it before I took off

Anyone?

Called an Autoswitch. Quick search here should bring up sourcing info. Ole Toad has had one since '99 - love the thang.

 

[vulch]

I have a autoswitch it was installed buy previous owner but its the older version as6 it will turn off the lights for no reason something to do with a software update by bmw i have the newer as7 that is supposed to fix the issue haven't installed it yet

 

[biometrics]

Recently read an article, (Maybe on the sport touring or ADV website) where a guy modified his garage door opener to operate from a switched power on his RT (using a voltage regulator to reduce the 12v down to the battery level of the device), mounted the device under the fairing and extended the wires from the device switch to his cancel button.

Of course it only works when the bike is turned on, and only when in range of his garage door... but it sounds like something I will be doing this summer. Drive up to the house and have the garage door open without even taking my hands off the handlebars... I like it! :dance:

 

[casamere]

Hi AntRT, I have the Autoswitch on my RT and it works brill, First installed the AS6 and the Canbus system did not like it. wrote to Autoswitch and they very kindly sent me an AS7 now it works perfect. No holes to drill and no ugly switches just hold the turn signal cancel switch for two seconds.

 

[vulch]

Hi AntRT, I have the Autoswitch on my RT and it works brill, First installed the AS6 and the Canbus system did not like it. wrote to Autoswitch and they very kindly sent me an AS7 now it works perfect. No holes to drill and no ugly switches just hold the turn signal cancel switch for two seconds.

Hi i just replaced the as6 with as7 i just spliced in the as7 to the old wiring except for the led i ran the new one to the dash .i wanted to reprogram it to use two clicks on the cancel switch but unable to do it so now i hold the cancel switch for a couple seconds until the red led flashes lights go on but the led doesn't turn green it just goes out not sure why no green led will call autoswitch for trouble shooting

 

[casamere]

Hi i just replaced the as6 with as7 i just spliced in the as7 to the old wiring except for the led i ran the new one to the dash .i wanted to reprogram it to use two clicks on the cancel switch but unable to do it so now i hold the cancel switch for a couple seconds until the red led flashes lights go on but the led doesn't turn green it just goes out not sure why no green led will call autoswitch for trouble shooting

Vulch,

Not sure what you had in mind when you said you wanted to reprogram it. I was under the impression the AS7 is for one set of lights only hence you only need one click on the turn signal cancel button. The AS7 replaces the older models AS6 & AS6B. The AS6B was to control more than one set of lights hence the two taps on the button. You also mention that the green light does not come on, it should, mine does as it brings on the lights. You say it just goes out but does it bring on the lights??,, if not then yes you have a problem with the unit.

http://www.autoswitch.com/index.php

http://www.autoswitch.com/as6b.php

 

[vulch]

Vulch,

Not sure what you had in mind when you said you wanted to reprogram it. I was under the impression the AS7 is for one set of lights only hence you only need one click on the turn signal cancel button. The AS7 replaces the older models AS6 & AS6B. The AS6B was to control more than one set of lights hence the two taps on the button. You also mention that the green light does not come on, it should, mine does as it brings on the lights. You say it just goes out but does it bring on the lights??,, if not then yes you have a problem with the unit.

http://www.autoswitch.com/index.php

http://www.autoswitch.com/as6b.php

Hi yes the lights go on but no green led .the led starts red then i hold the cancel switch it blinks red release switch lights come on no green led hold again flashing red lights go out led is solid red ..in the instructions it says how to program it for a double click.but this works good just wondering why no green led..... Thanks..

 

[AntRT]

Sorry for the dumb questions but as a non electrical person I don't want my bike to catch fire. I have the PIAA 1100X kit and want to take a stab at installing before I have the shop do it.

I've figured out two things in my research, I can either:

A) Use the switch that came with the kit and mount it on the handlebars which I'm fine with or B) get an AS7 autoswitch and use the the turn signal cancel button which also I'm ok with.

What I can't figure out is on A) where and what wire on the low beam do I slice the white wire from the harness to? and B) how the hell do you install an autoswitch? I can't read schematics

Should I just bite the bullet and have the shop do this?

 

[casamere]

Sorry for the dumb questions but as a non electrical person I don't want my bike to catch fire. I have the PIAA 1100X kit and want to take a stab at installing before I have the shop do it.

I've figured out two things in my research, I can either:

A) Use the switch that came with the kit and mount it on the handlebars which I'm fine with or B) get an AS7 autoswitch and use the the turn signal cancel button which also I'm ok with.

What I can't figure out is on A) where and what wire on the low beam do I slice the white wire from the harness to? and B) how the hell do you install an autoswitch? I can't read schematics

Should I just bite the bullet and have the shop do this?

Firstly, (unless you are one hell of a smart ass, and that guy aint been born yet!!) should you apologize for any of your questions being dumb. Either you know or you dont and far better ask here than make one hell of an expensive mistake and believe me it can happen with DIY wiring jobs. In the UK I doubt if you would get your insurance to pay out if they discovered the fire was down to your botched wiring job.
But back to your question, I presume you are wanting to fit these lights to your RT, well, if you are happy with a switch on your handlebars I would go for that. The Autoswitch link ( last page) is the same for the AS7 but if you don't know what your looking at it will be a mystery. I can only speak from experience of fitting the Autoswitch but in my opinion it is NO job for an amateur splicing into the Turn Cancel Wire.
I was not in favour of cutting into my lighting wires as all you need is a power wire to the unit from an ignition supply. Under NO circumstances use a feed wire straight from the battery that is LIVE even when the bike is shut down you are asking for trouble. I used the Aux rear power supply socket wire that shuts down with the Canbus system after 30seconds.
One last question, Is there anyone in your area that knows what they are doing with Auto Wiring that could help you out. And if you do attempt it youself make sure you solder all the connections, there is nothing worse than trying to trace a wiring fault when two connections have pulled apart (seperated).



http://www.autoswitch.com/downloads/retired-models/directions_as6b.pdf

 

[AntRT]

Firstly, (unless you are one hell of a smart ass, and that guy aint been born yet!!) should you apologize for any of your questions being dumb. Either you know or you dont and far better ask here than make one hell of an expensive mistake and believe me it can happen with DIY wiring jobs. In the UK I doubt if you would get your insurance to pay out if they discovered the fire was down to your botched wiring job.
But back to your question, I presume you are wanting to fit these lights to your RT, well, if you are happy with a switch on your handlebars I would go for that. The Autoswitch link ( last page) is the same for the AS7 but if you don't know what your looking at it will be a mystery. I can only speak from experience of fitting the Autoswitch but in my opinion it is NO job for an amateur splicing into the Turn Cancel Wire.
I was not in favour of cutting into my lighting wires as all you need is a power wire to the unit from an ignition supply. Under NO circumstances use a feed wire straight from the battery that is LIVE even when the bike is shut down you are asking for trouble. I used the Aux rear power supply socket wire that shuts down with the Canbus system after 30seconds.
One last question, Is there anyone in your area that knows what they are doing with Auto Wiring that could help you out. And if you do attempt it youself make sure you solder all the connections, there is nothing worse than trying to trace a wiring fault when two connections have pulled apart (seperated).



http://www.autoswitch.com/downloads/retired-models/directions_as6b.pdf

I think your right I'll just go with putting the switch on the handlebar, it will be the easiest and straight forward way to go. Still need to figure out though exactly where to splice that one white wire into the low beam.

 

[casamere]

I'll leave someone else to guide you on that one as I said I don't go anywhere near the lighting harness. My 2cents worth is over..... If you do decide to mount a handlebar switch have you thought about obtaining one that they fit to the 1200 RTP's, they are made for the job and blend in better with the BMW switches. I know these things are exclusive to the Police here in the UK but you could be lucky......Good luck and let us know if it was a success.

Steve. UK.

 

[tjtait]

On a similar theme I have a 2010 RT and have installed Wunderlich flooters. These come with a wire to the live terminal on the battery (which I haven't connected yet) and a switch which I've installed into the blanking panel for the radio on the left. However the instructions suggest the black power lead from the switch should be connected to the blue/gray wire on the accessory lead. Only problem, I suspect the instructions are for the pre 2010 RT as I can't see such a wire! The wires to the accessory socket (below the radio blank panel front left) are brown (live I presume) and red/green. The power lead for the sat nav is already in use. No response from Wunderlich to my queries as yet but wonder if anyone here can help? Which lead should i wire the black power lead from the switch to? Thanks for any help. Tim

 

[George_S]

It seems to me that during the half second to think about it and to put your finger on the switch, plus the two seconds to hold the switch to shut the lights off, you may have already passed and pissed off the oncoming driver you were trying not to blind with the aux lights.

 

[JayJay]

On a similar theme I have a 2010 RT and have installed Wunderlich flooters. These come with a wire to the live terminal on the battery (which I haven't connected yet) and a switch which I've installed into the blanking panel for the radio on the left. However the instructions suggest the black power lead from the switch should be connected to the blue/gray wire on the accessory lead. Only problem, I suspect the instructions are for the pre 2010 RT as I can't see such a wire! The wires to the accessory socket (below the radio blank panel front left) are brown (live I presume) and red/green. The power lead for the sat nav is already in use. No response from Wunderlich to my queries as yet but wonder if anyone here can help? Which lead should i wire the black power lead from the switch to? Thanks for any help. Tim

Tim - Brown is European universal for ground/earth. If you have red/green and brown then connect your hot signal lead to the red/green.

But ... if you're dinking around with wiring, do yourself a favor and get a cheap multimeter. That way you can confirm by yourself that there is no resistance between the brown and the negative terminal on the battery, and +12V DC between the red/green and the negative terminal on the battery (ignition switch on, of course).

JayJay

 

[tjtait]

JayJay - thanks for getting back to me. Now why didn't I think about the multimeter! I'd thought brown would be live as that is the standard UK colour for live wires in domestic wiring circuits. I'll get to it this weekend hopefully.
BW
Tim

 

[GlosPolbiker]

I think your right I'll just go with putting the switch on the handlebar, it will be the easiest and straight forward way to go. Still need to figure out though exactly where to splice that one white wire into the low beam.

Hi
I have installed my PA 1100's from my LT onto my RT. The white wire on my installation is spliced into the main beam, as I use them in addition to my H7 main beam, this is because I am running HID dipped beams.
I hope that helps......

 

[MTRREF]

Recently read an article, (Maybe on the sport touring or ADV website) where a guy modified his garage door opener to operate from a switched power on his RT (using a voltage regulator to reduce the 12v down to the battery level of the device), mounted the device under the fairing and extended the wires from the device switch to his cancel button.

Of course it only works when the bike is turned on, and only when in range of his garage door... but it sounds like something I will be doing this summer. Drive up to the house and have the garage door open without even taking my hands off the handlebars... I like it! :dance:

I just did that! Works well, but with limited range w/ my installation. It is called Flash2Pass - http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/14570/i/flash2pass-powersports-garage-door-opener-system - also carried on Amazon.

 

[biometrics]

Running two wires from a hot DC voltage lead on your bike through a voltage reducer from 12 volts to whatever battery voltage runs your existing garage door remote (...an ebay item for less than $10) , and two other wires spliced in parallel with your cancel switch wires to the terminals that get made when you push the button on your old remote, is not very complicated. No work to the garage door opener itself would be required at all. The FLASH2PASS kit for $99.00 seems like overkill to me? or am I missing something?