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Discussion Starter #1
I bought these a while back from a forum member, just rebuilt by Ohlins.
The front spring is marked 180-56/85, the rear 1099-89/210. I will assume these are progressive springs, what rider/pillion weights might they accommodate ? I am about 180, wife maybe 140 (I don't dare ask). plus riding gear.

Playing with the adjustment knob it gets tighter/harder to turn clockwise, but no movement can be seen... Normal?

104 today or I would be in the garage tearing the Tupperware off and working on the beast.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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I had Ohlins but went to Wilbers when I got a good deal on an ESA shock. The adjustment knob can be hard to turn unless the unit is bolted down. Maybe try it clamped in a bench vice? You will only get about a 1/4 inch of movement in the sleeve just below the adjusting nut for full travel. I liked the Ohlins but they are made for racing and are very light weight so the internals always had to be replaced on rebuilds (every 30 K) and it was getting expensive. The Wilbers are a bit more robust and the ESA preload and damping was a very nice feature on the rear shock.

You might just call one of the shock suppliers like Ted Porter and get a read out on the springs.

By the way I used to live in Camarillo, had a 74 Suzuki GT-750 stolen from my driveway three blocks from the PD back in 1985. But the riding was great around there.
 
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Yes, I don't believe you should see any movement when turning the adjustment knob. The adjustment occurs internally for the response of the shock. Did the previous owner provide you with the wrench to adjust the tension on the spring?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No wrench.

I am wondering if I need to send these out to be overhauled again. They sat in a box for 10 years, no signs of oil leakage..

but what about oil break down?

or nitrogen leakage??

Or should I just put them on and see how they feel?
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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I would put them on and yes you will see a little movement at least I did on the Ohlins I had. You should see movement of about 1/4 inch at the red arrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So it begins.

I noticed some "sweating" on the fuel lines from the injector rail to the fuel pump connectors, Not leaking, no wetness but the rubber lines are sticky/spotted at the fuel rail end, all dry at the pump connectors. BMW says $160 for the 2 fuel hoses from the rail to pump connectors.

The factory lines have bends formed into them, wondering if anybody has replaced them with standard fuel injection hose??
 

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Yes, I did replace mine with regular fuel injection hose. That was 5 years and nearly 100K ago

No issues-except the hassle trying to get them on!

And I must admit I felt your pain with the picture of your 'exploded' bike on the garage floor! It's an all-too-familiar sight.

Save your $200 on the fuel hoses.

Dave
 
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Yep, fuel hose straight from the parts store will work..I had some old zuki lines laying around and took the SS coil from those to strengthen the bends for my KGT.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Progress!

This morning I got my small floor jack home to free the front wheel. (I already had the center stand ratchet strapped to the skid plate), another tip I read here was to use an impact gun on the top front shock nut, I did and it worked great.

The rear shock spring does have some movement now the adjuster is mounted solidly, I can crank it down to test, but I did not pay attention to the initial setting, how many turns "in" from all the way "out" for a starting point??

I will have a new front tire mounted/balanced and continue with the brake/fuel lines after work this week....
 

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