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Taking next week off and in addition to riding a whole lot I thought I would do an end off the season anti-freeze flush and change. I checked the search feature and halls of wisdom without success. I have had people tell me to not remove the thermostat but rather the lower radiator hose to drain. Is there a engine block drain bolt and do I absolutely have to remove the tank? I am more than comfortable figuring it out. But if someone out there has a tried and true method I am willing to listen. I already know about using BMW product and distilled water. Anyone out there have a simple and efficient method?

May we never find the end of the road!

Perry Ridgway

oknplm

"Silberner Wolf"
 

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That hose is about the easiest way. Does require removal of the lower right engine fairing, but that is not so hard. You need to "burp" the system by massaging the hoses anyway on re-fill, so you should go ahead and pull the fairings.

You CAN do it without removing the tank, but filling the radiator again is pretty frustrating, even with the tank off. It is time consuming to get all the air out.
 

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dshealey said:
That hose is about the easiest way. Does require removal of the lower right engine fairing, but that is not so hard. You need to "burp" the system by massaging the hoses anyway on re-fill, so you should go ahead and pull the fairings..
Agreed!

dshealey said:
You CAN do it without removing the tank, but filling the radiator again is pretty frustrating, even with the tank off. It is time consuming to get all the air out.
Slight disagreement here -- I found removing the overflow hose from the filler neck and lowering it to below the reservoir tank to drain the tank to be far more convenient than removing the tank -- enough to make working with a length of hose and a funnel to reach the filler neck on refill worth the hassle.

There is no "right" way to do this -- just offering an alternate view!
 

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Perry,
Just did mine last month, and as Mr Shealey states you dont have to take the "tank cover" off and heartily agree with the "frustration" part.
When I drained mine I followed the service manual and removed the water temp sensor. However, there is certainly nothing wrong with removing the radiator hose to drain the system. The service manual also recommends removal of the coolant expansion tank. If the tank is clean inside, I don't see the wisdom in that. To drain the expansion tank, remove the overflow hose from the radiator filler neck and put the hose lower than the tank and it drains just fine. Even flush with a little distilled water if you'd like.
The first time the coolant was changed, I took my time in the refilling process to get all of the air out and then marked the "mixing" jug as to what it had left in it. This time I knew when I was getting close. (Eases the frustration a bit ) To refill I used a fuel line primer bulb and some clear plastic tubing. Just take your time, it goes pretty quickly.
Ahhh, Yes, the pictures.
First one, The filling aparatus. Goes faster than it looks!
Second, The radiator cap and filler neck. There is room to remove the cap, just a little cramped. Use an inspection mirror to monitor the level while filling.
YMMV, and good luck

Edit: Mr. Neblett was a little quicker on the draw than I was. Guess I better type faster
BTW Mark, Congrats on the award at CCR. Well deserved!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
oknplm

Thanks everyone for the input. It appeared to be pretty straight forward but the additional suggestions definitely help. Really liked the fuel bulb idea!

May we never find the end of the road!

Perry Ridgway

oknplm

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A short length of clear plastic tubing attached to a small funnel will allow you to fill the radiator directly. You can snake it between the fuel tank and frame. Don't forget to inspect/clean the rubber seal on the cap or just replace it for a few bucks as preventative maintenance. A mini cap that you can get at ANY auto parts store will work just fine. 1.3 bar or 21 psi.
 

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Drain intervals

Somtime back I remember a disscussion about the drain and refill intervals, suggested by BMW. If I remember correctly the new interval recommended by BMW is four years, not two. Is my memory playing tricks on me or is this now the standard the group is going by.

Thanks,
Gene Sweeney
 

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Burping necessary?

I changed my coolant last summer. I took off the lower hose and drained. Drained the expansion tank as well. I filled the tank back up when I had the gas tank off. One thing I did not do was burp the lines. I figured since the coolant tank is vented to the overflow tank, why would'nt any trapped air naturally vent out when the motor cooled and the radiator cap lifts to stabilize the system. Did :sleep: I miss something??
 

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I have always been told 2 years.
 

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I don't know about the new drain interval. All I know is that when I changed mine in December after 3 years, the coolant looked like it just came out of the jug.
 

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When I owned my GL1800 there were a few people on the owners group websight that used a product to replace the standard anti-freeze from Evans. Since no water is used the system runs with no pressure because there is no notable expansion of the product hot. It is claimed to be a lifetime product that cools better than the standard 50/50 mix. Anyone heard of it here? I have not heard of BMW waterpump seals failing like the GW's so the zero pressure route may not be as attractive to us compared the them , and we dont seem to have overheating issue's either but better cooling with zero maintenance is attractive.
 

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rattso said:
When I owned my GL1800 there were a few people on the owners group websight that used a product to replace the standard anti-freeze from Evans. Since no water is used the system runs with no pressure because there is no notable expansion of the product hot. It is claimed to be a lifetime product that cools better than the standard 50/50 mix. Anyone heard of it here? I have not heard of BMW waterpump seals failing like the GW's so the zero pressure route may not be as attractive to us compared the them , and we dont seem to have overheating issue's either but better cooling with zero maintenance is attractive.
Read up on the stuff a couple of years ago. Called NPG. (nonaqueous propylene glycol.) Pricey IIRC. Certainly shows promise in some applications, and although not really necessary in the LT, probably wouldn't hurt anything either.
 
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