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Discussion Starter #1
Like many other posts, my radio has stopped working.

After setting over the winter and a couple of charges and battery tender sessions, I got it out and started her (2005 K1200LT) up. Everything seemed OK but when I tried the radio, nothing happened. The dash cluster says RADIO, no buttons on the stingray work, and when I open the oddment box, the LED display on the intercom interface isn't lit.

I tried the disconnect the battery fix. When I reconnected the battery, the radio came on for 2 seconds and went off. (Even though the bike was switched off)

I've tried this several times and always the same results. With the bike turned on or off, the radio will come on, the intercom lights and will even respond to twisting, but will go off again in 2 seconds. I tried pressing the topside buttons in that 2 seconds...nothing, I've tried with just the bike battery and also with a regulated Power Supply attached as well in case the battery was weak and dropping voltage when first booting.

Any ideas on what to do from here?

Jay
 

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Like many other posts, my radio has stopped working.

After setting over the winter and a couple of charges and battery tender sessions, I got it out and started her (2005 K1200LT) up. Everything seemed OK but when I tried the radio, nothing happened. The dash cluster says RADIO, no buttons on the stingray work, and when I open the oddment box, the LED display on the intercom interface isn't lit.

I tried the disconnect the battery fix. When I reconnected the battery, the radio came on for 2 seconds and went off. (Even though the bike was switched off)

I've tried this several times and always the same results. With the bike turned on or off, the radio will come on, the intercom lights and will even respond to twisting, but will go off again in 2 seconds. I tried pressing the topside buttons in that 2 seconds...nothing, I've tried with just the bike battery and also with a regulated Power Supply attached as well in case the battery was weak and dropping voltage when first booting.

Any ideas on what to do from here?

Jay
Was any work done on the bike during the winter? Was it stored where mice have access? They can do a number on wiring.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Fuse F4 is a 7.5 amp fuse and powers the radio, there is also a fuse on the back side of the radio itself. Not sure of how either of those would cause your issue but they are worth a check. You have to remove the stingray to get to the fuse at the back of the radio. The radio powers the intercom also.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
No work done and no mice customizing.

when re-attaching the battery the radio comes on and sounds fine...for about 2 seconds. Just enough time to get your hopes up.

I've left it disconnected for about 30 hours now and will go out and try it. Possibly my capacitors are better than most...one has to grab at the straws in reach!

Will update.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No Joy. After 30 hours disconnected, same thing. Ignition off, connect battery, Intercom displays "ON", radio comes on, 2 seconds later everything stops.

Turn ignition on, all the normal noises (ABS pump etc) gauges jump, but no radio.

Any more new ideas?

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I might be missing something, but since both the VOICE II and the radio come on for a couple of seconds the fuses probably are still good.

I have left it disconnected for 4+ days and still doesn't stay on.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update:

With the ignition turned on...
When I connect the negative terminal, the normal noises and gauge deflections occur.
The VOICE II intercom controller display lights up with "ON" (and will respond when rotated)
The radio comes on.
Two seconds later the radio and VOICE controller go off.

With the ignition turned off...
When I connect the negative terminal,
The VOICE II intercom controller display lights up with "ON" (and will respond when rotated)
The radio comes on.
Two seconds later the radio and VOICE controller go off.

I've left the negative disconnected for everywhere from 15 minutes to 4+ days and still the same problem.

I now have removed the stingray to check/verify all the connectors. So far, nothing pops out as being bad. Id check fuses, but
everything comes on for a couple of seconds, so the power should be getting to the components.

I'm getting the bike ready for the Run for the Wall trip. It would be a LONG 2+ week trip with no sounds. I'm getting close to running
out of options.

Jay A.
 

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Update:

With the ignition turned on...
When I connect the negative terminal, the normal noises and gauge deflections occur.
The VOICE II intercom controller display lights up with "ON" (and will respond when rotated)
The radio comes on.
Two seconds later the radio and VOICE controller go off.

With the ignition turned off...
When I connect the negative terminal,
The VOICE II intercom controller display lights up with "ON" (and will respond when rotated)
The radio comes on.
Two seconds later the radio and VOICE controller go off.

I've left the negative disconnected for everywhere from 15 minutes to 4+ days and still the same problem.

I now have removed the stingray to check/verify all the connectors. So far, nothing pops out as being bad. Id check fuses, but
everything comes on for a couple of seconds, so the power should be getting to the components.

I'm getting the bike ready for the Run for the Wall trip. It would be a LONG 2+ week trip with no sounds. I'm getting close to running
out of options.

Jay A.
It sure sounds like something internal to the intercom.
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Try "jacking" the big black connector on the back of the radio. Also check that fuse back there (10 amp) The connector has an outer sliding part that will drive the connector off of the radio. Do this a few times to clean up any corroded contacts. This also "jacks" the intercom connector, then you can reconnect all the loose connectors and try the radio before you button all the tupperware back on.
 

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Yes it could be some terminal corrosion. Try getting some spray on contact cleaner to give the plug ends a spray, both male and female and then work them in and out a couple of times. This might be enough to freshen up the contact pins.
 

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I might be missing something, but since both the VOICE II and the radio come on for a couple of seconds the fuses probably are still good.

I have left it disconnected for 4+ days and still doesn't stay on.
Yes, this is reasonable logic, but, although it is rare, it isn’t unheard of for a fuse to go bad due to vibration or a manufacturing defect and get a break it in that that is closed when cold, but then opens up when warm. Given the cost of fuses, I would change the fuse that powers the intercom just to be sure that there isn’t something strange going on.

I agree though that it seems very unlikely to be the fuse. It sure sounds like something internal.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the responses.

The radio/intercom connections are the only ones I haven't remove/replaced.

I would think that corrosion, loose connectors etc, would cause a more random set of symptoms. This seems to act exactly the same way each and every time.

I'll go back out and remove the stingray. Fortunately, I haven't put the side panels back on.

More to follow,

Again, thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dissassembled and reassembled stingray.

Well...thought I'd found the problem, but no.

I disassembled the stingray and found a small coax cable (not antenna) going to the radio that looked like the connector might have been damaged.

I theorized that it might be a CAN-bus cable. It seemed to fit the symptoms. Possibly the radio/comm comes on when power is applied but when the radio/comm doesn't respond to the bus, it removes the power.

I reconnected it and stuffed a spacer between it and the housing to prevent future disconnection.

Reassembled and tested. No joy. still doesn't work.
 

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Re: Dissassembled and reassembled stingray.

Well...thought I'd found the problem, but no.

I disassembled the stingray and found a small coax cable (not antenna) going to the radio that looked like the connector might have been damaged.

I theorized that it might be a CAN-bus cable. It seemed to fit the symptoms. Possibly the radio/comm comes on when power is applied but when the radio/comm doesn't respond to the bus, it removes the power.

I reconnected it and stuffed a spacer between it and the housing to prevent future disconnection.

Reassembled and tested. No joy. still doesn't work.
The LT is not CAN-bus equipped.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK. I thought it had a can-bus like system for interlocks like kickstand, etc.

Sooo, any idea what the small coax connector (not antenna) on the right rear of the CD player might be?
 

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Could it be the wire to the changer in the right saddlebag?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Could be. I don't know. Just seemed to be odd to have a single wire coax going into the radio/CD. If it was for audio, l and R would have to be multiplexed into one wire. If it was for controlling the changer it would still have to be multiplexed.

The Radio/CD and the intercom works fine...just for 2 seconds. (Long enough to eject a CD, or change settings knob on the intercom controller.) It seems like a logic thing. I just don't know if the radio/CD or intercom is failing the test.

Also it does it with the key ON or OFF when the battery is connected.

If it is the intercom, I can buy one for $160, but I don't have that much to waste if it's not.
 

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It seems awfully peculiar that the symptoms reveal with the key in either off or on positions. With this, any chance the ignition is not turned far enough to get full system shutdown? Try turning key to full lock off and test again.

If you are going in again, try to get some photos of the wire you have in question. It may help someone here identify.

The 2-second thing has me kinda stumped.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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You can isolate the intercom by removing it's connector from that big black connector on the back of the radio. It comes out if you pull the little blue clip and it is the one on the right looking at the connector from the rear. The one on the left is for the CD changer. Could pull both also to check. Then the intercom is removed from the equation and if it still does it it is in the radio.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks! Now I have a troubleshooting plan.

One question though, doesn't the radio go through the intercom for speed dependant volume and rear headset volume? If so, disconnection it would stop the radio from working wouldn't it?
 
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