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Discussion Starter #1
I have put this task off long enough. My 2006 K1200LT with 64,636 miles is needing a new clutch. I have the Clymers and BMW manuals and the parts that I expect to need on hand. (Used the list from Voyager's thread) This post is just to get a thread started and see if I am smart enough to post pictures. I will be doing a little plastic removal, etc. evenings, but plan to get started for real this weekend.
 

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I have put this task off long enough. My 2006 K1200LT with 64,636 miles is needing a new clutch. I have the Clymers and BMW manuals and the parts that I expect to need on hand. (Used the list from Voyager's thread) This post is just to get a thread started and see if I am smart enough to post pictures. I will be doing a little plastic removal, etc. evenings, but plan to get started for real this weekend.
That is a good start Dan, just be aware that as you jack up the back of the bike, you will have to adjust/loosen the front straps carefully as the rear goes up and then tighten again as the back end is lowered. Without any kind of wheel chock/brace up front, make sure the wheel does not slide sideways.

Good luck. We are with you.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
You have probably seen this thread but there is a lot of good information in it also. Might as well change that 19x4 oring that leaks on these guys. If you need one made of viton, I'll mail you one for free.
GregRS's journey into seal territory - I-BMW.com
Beech, Thank you for the link to the additional thread. I will review it this evening. Gordon has graciously included a viton o-ring along with the tools he is loaning me.
 

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That is a good start Dan, just be aware that as you jack up the back of the bike, you will have to adjust/loosen the front straps carefully as the rear goes up and then tighten again as the back end is lowered. Without any kind of wheel chock/brace up front, make sure the wheel does not slide sideways.

Good luck. We are with you.
Couldn't agree more than this,,, you will more than likely loose the bike off the table without chocking the front wheel.. There is a lot of pushing and pulling to be done, going by the photo it looks like you have the front pulled down really tight which is not good for the front suspension., good luck it is not hard take reference photo's as you go.
 

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Thank you for the suggestion to improve the security of the bike prior to pulling the transmission. I will head the advice. This evening I removed the plastic and fuel tank and did a quick valve check. Most are at the bottom end of the spec, but within spec. Changes have been less that 0.01mm during the last 22K miles. What is the general consensus on cleaning and reusing the gasket?
 

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no problem using old gasket, clean the silicon off the half moons and re-apply you should be right. Mines been of several times and re-used.
 

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... There is a lot of pushing and pulling to be done, going by the photo it looks like you have the front pulled down really tight which is not good for the front suspension..
Should not be an issue...the front suspension is not compressed with this tie-down method, just the wheel.
 

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Thank you for the suggestion to improve the security of the bike prior to pulling the transmission. I will head the advice. This evening I removed the plastic and fuel tank and did a quick valve check. Most are at the bottom end of the spec, but within spec. Changes have been less that 0.01mm during the last 22K miles. What is the general consensus on cleaning and reusing the gasket?
Have not checked mine yet but as already stated, clean and reuse with new silicone at the appropriate locations until it leaks, then replace.

I am however curious of the box on the left side of your dash. What does that control?

The tool box should be arriving today.

The swing arm pivot pins should unscrew pretty easily. Make sure you clean out the area you can see well so you don't drag any dirt out with the threads. Unless you have had them off before, they should not have any thread locker on them but if they don't want to turn, be sure to use heat in case someone else mistakenly put some on.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gordon - Package arrived today. Thank you. The switches in the box on the left side control a transfer fuel pump from an auxiliary fuel tank and PIAA lights. The extra fuel tank is a "tail dragger" tank and the mount slides into a trailer hitch receiver. Feeling kind of tough today so probably not much will be accomplished tonight.
 

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I have put this task off long enough. My 2006 K1200LT with 64,636 miles is needing a new clutch. I have the Clymers and BMW manuals and the parts that I expect to need on hand. (Used the list from Voyager's thread) This post is just to get a thread started and see if I am smart enough to post pictures. I will be doing a little plastic removal, etc. evenings, but plan to get started for real this weekend.
Just take your time and think things through. Few things require much force, other than the clutch housing nut, so if you find a need to force something ... you probably are doing it wrong.

My main hang-up was getting the transmission to clear the frame. The keys for me were the 1/4" temporary engine mount bolts and picking up the left side of the engine (cylinder head) as the rotation let the transmission slide easily past the frame when it otherwise was jamming solid. It is all about technique and finesse. Brute force not required.
 
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Also don't forget to remove the push rod after you take off the slave cyl I know someone who did that....:)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Making pretty good progress this morning, buy seem to have hit a snag. I am unable to remove the push rod once I removed the slave cylinder. Also, what does everyone think of the corrosion on the line going to the slave cylinder? As a side, there is clearly a seal leaking, which is likely the cause of my clutch problem.
 

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Making pretty good progress this morning, buy seem to have hit a snag. I am unable to remove the push rod once I removed the slave cylinder. Also, what does everyone think of the corrosion on the line going to the slave cylinder? As a side, there is clearly a seal leaking, which is likely the cause of my clutch problem.
Looking good. The pushrod should come out with a little twisting. There isn't anything holding it in but maybe the felt noise insulator.

The leak that I see in the picture seems to be coming from the top of the engine and not from either of the rear seals if you are referring to the oil and dirt on the back side of the transmission.
That could be from the breather tube and blowing back over the engine to the back. That is not going to be a leak that affects the clutch.

I can't see into the slave cavity to see the bottom if there is any oil pooling there. It should be dry so if there is oil in there, either the seal or the slave is leaking.

As for the corrosion on the slave main line, that is as bad as any I have seen. Mine was not that bad. They are expensive to replace so you may want to tape up the end and gently flake some of that off and see if there is significant damage to the actual metal part of the line. I think someone actually used a larger banjo bolt on the slave and it sealed up but where that thread is, I don't remember. They are smaller than the brake lines.

Set up looks good to go. I see a strap holding the front wheel in place so if we just missed that before, that should do the trick especially with the back being on a hoist.

Keep going :)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The rear seal in the transmission is clearly leaking. Oil was pooled at both u-joints in the swing arm. I am guessing I will find the engine seal leaking as well. We will see. It looks dry behind the slave cylinder. I added the two extra straps based on feedback here. I honestly don't think the front end can turn the way I originally had it tied down, but better safe than sorry. I am taking a break and will either get back to the push rod this evening or tomorrow morning. I did take a piece of dental floss, put a loop in it and try pulling the push rod out with that. I broke the dental floss so for some reason it is stuck.
 

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The rear seal in the transmission is clearly leaking. Oil was pooled at both u-joints in the swing arm. I am guessing I will find the engine seal leaking as well. We will see. It looks dry behind the slave cylinder. I added the two extra straps based on feedback here. I honestly don't think the front end can turn the way I originally had it tied down, but better safe than sorry. I am taking a break and will either get back to the push rod this evening or tomorrow morning. I did take a piece of dental floss, put a loop in it and try pulling the push rod out with that. I broke the dental floss so for some reason it is stuck.
Grab it with a pair of long nose pliers and twist and pull. You won't hurt it. There is no moving bearing surface there.

The chances are good that the seals inside are not in any better shape. Waiting for the next round of pics as you get deeper in.
 

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unable to remove the push rod once I removed the slave cylinder
I have had that happen,..Of the 4 times I have had my gear box out , it was stuck twice. Both times the gear box had a bad front input bearing..:wave Was it luck of the draw, or ?:frown:
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Transmission is on the floor. Eventually I took a long punch and tapped on the push rod. Once it broke loose, it came out easily. Time to start cleaning up parts. Clutch area appears dry, but lots of what I think is "Clutch Dust" in the area. If anyone has a picture of the technique used to pull seals, I would appreciate you sharing. I am confident on how to drill and pull the seals, but have never performed this process so a picture would be nice.
 

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Transmission is on the floor. Eventually I took a long punch and tapped on the push rod. Once it broke loose, it came out easily. Time to start cleaning up parts. Clutch area appears dry, but lots of what I think is "Clutch Dust" in the area. If anyone has a picture of the technique used to pull seals, I would appreciate you sharing. I am confident on how to drill and pull the seals, but have never performed this process so a picture would be nice.
That is a lot of clutch dust. Wipe a finger in it and see if it has any liquid component. Mine had less dust than yours but it was not entirely dry, it smeared as you rubbed your finger across it.

As for the drilling, I took a small section of copper tubing and cut it up the side and then opened it up to about the diameter of the opening and set it in down upon the seal. Keeping the drill bit as parallel to the side walls and going slowly, if it migrates to the side, the intent is that it will migrate into the copper and not the bore for the seal. You might be better off using very small bit and then a second one once you get the initial hole as a pilot. I don't think the JZ video actually had any footage of the drilling beyond a start and then it went to it being out.

Go slow is the key. Pulls the drill so if it starts to move,you can re-position and re-angle if necessary or move to another spot.

Be careful of how far you screw in the screws so not to damage the bearings behind the seals. You may need to drill 2 holes. I know you know that but saying it anyways.

There is enough dust that the clutch slippage may just be from wear primarily.
 
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