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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

Sorry for beating the dead horse but I have a few questions about the process and needed items for flushing the braking system, so I get it right the first time.

For starters, I have an '07 K1200LT, I have downloaded, printed and read many times over the procedures found in the File Repository on this topic.(see listing below)
Thanks to all for providing this information. What a wonderful wealth of knowledge. WOW!!

BMW Integral ABS System Wheel Circuit Reservoir Filling Adapter
(by Dana Hager & Charles Gilman)

BMW Integral ABS System Flushing and Bleeding 101
(by Dana Hager & Charles Gilman)

Changing Brake Fluid On an '02-later K1200LT Integral Brake System - Version 1.0
(by Mark Neblett)

Addenda for Flushing 05 Brake Wheel Circuit
(by- forum user name - jzeiler )

Everything I have read looks straight forward. I don't think I will have a problem if I follow the steps and do not deviate from them.

The questions I have about the procedure are:

To bleed the right front port. Which is better, speed bleeders or a BMW bleed screw? Where do you get either? Do I need them? Is this port like the clutch that I can use a wooden dowel to depress the check ball, or dose that just make a big mess?

Is it necessary to have the BMW Dealer conduct a MoDiTeC Bleed test afterwards?

When making the filling adapter. The top that they are speaking of, is that just a cap to the reservoir? (BMW PN# 34 51 7 677 998)

Lastly, How many people have done this successfully? If you have what is in your opinion the skill level needed?

Thanks
TOM G.
 

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just bled my brakes on my 06 for the first time in March. I read all the same articles you did and it was not at all a hard job to accomplish. Just take your time and be careful not to spell brake fluid on your painted surfaces.

ABS fill adapter get from beemerboneyard, don't try to make it yourself. It is cheap compared to bmw tool or trying to track down materials and your time to make.

Get speedbleeders from speedbeeders.com. I installed them and used them to bleed front and rear brakes and the clutch. They work great and the job only requires one person. While at speedbleeders order the iv bag for collecting the old brake fluid, it worked great.

When you do the clutch line I recommend you remove the entire grub screw assembly and leave your speed bleeder in its place. the grubscrew assembly has loctite on the threads so you will need to heat it(I used wifes hair dryer) awhile to loosen the loctite so you can break it loose. I used two wrenches. A pair of visegrips holding the base and an open end wrench to breal it loose, it is tight.

lay a razor blade inside you clutch and front brake reservoirs when you bleed those points it will prevent the brake fluid from squirting into the air when pumping brakes.

you will need a small 7mm open end wrench to open and close the long bleeders on the ABS unit and of course you will use the fill adapter on the other two ports.

Good Luck
 

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missed your last couple of questions.

No you do not need the MoDiTec after completion and you do not need a hight skill level to complete the job.
 

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theoldone said:
just bled my brakes on my 06 for the first time in March. I read all the same articles you did and it was not at all a hard job to accomplish. Just take your time and be careful not to spell brake fluid on your painted surfaces.

ABS fill adapter get from beemerboneyard, don't try to make it yourself. It is cheap compared to bmw tool or trying to track down materials and your time to make.

Get speedbleeders from speedbeeders.com. I installed them and used them to bleed front and rear brakes and the clutch. They work great and the job only requires one person. While at speedbleeders order the iv bag for collecting the old brake fluid, it worked great.

When you do the clutch line I recommend you remove the entire grub screw assembly and leave your speed bleeder in its place. the grubscrew assembly has loctite on the threads so you will need to heat it(I used wifes hair dryer) awhile to loosen the loctite so you can break it loose. I used two wrenches. A pair of visegrips holding the base and an open end wrench to breal it loose, it is tight.

lay a razor blade inside you clutch and front brake reservoirs when you bleed those points it will prevent the brake fluid from squirting into the air when pumping brakes.

you will need a small 7mm open end wrench to open and close the long bleeders on the ABS unit and of course you will use the fill adapter on the other two ports.

Good Luck
I did my '07 last fall from the information available on this site. No problem, everything worked fine. A couple of other thoughts:

1) You'll probably want to made a bend in the 7mm wrench for better access to the ABS unit, so you may want to purchase one that will be used just for this purpose.

2) It helps to have an extra pair of hands when you do the ABS unit. I did mine alone by reaching over the bike and operating the lever while opening and closing the bleed screws, but it certainly would have been easier to have some help.

3) When done, I took the bike out to see how it braked and didn't have much braking in the rear. I re-bled the rear ports for the ABS unit and that solved the problem. Must have gotten just a bit of air in the line.

Just take your time and use the excellent directions from this site. It's not hard, but you do want to do it correctly since it's your brakes we're talking about here.

Good luck.
 

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2005 K1200LT
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All good advice. The flushing need only be done on the "tall" bleeder on the ABS unit. BMW came out with a bulletin that eliminated the old 1,2,3 & 1 again on the flush. You still must follow that sequence for a bleed of the control circuit but not a good flush. That helps a lot. I don't use speed bleeders on any of the ports but do use the speed bleeder bag. With it held above the bleed port you can open it and keep it open as you pump. No need to open ,pump, close and repeat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks Everyone,

Hope to have all supplies by Friday and tackle the job this weekend. Will let you know how it goes.

If anyone is in the Spotsylvania, VA area this weekend and wants to lend a hand come on by. :wave

Thanks Again
TOM G.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Well life got in the way of flushing the ABS system since my last post.
Anyway, I have the time and it is raining so I thought that I would try and tackle the job today. I have the Tupperware off the left side exposing the ABS unit. I have the funnel and DOT4 fluid. But I have a few more questions.
1. Which reservoir is for the front and which is the rear? Looking down at the unit facing the front, which reservoir is the left and which is the right?
2. The frame rail of the bike is in the way and will not allow the funnel to be screwed into the reservoir on the front right. How is this obstacle overcome? Do you have to loosen the ABS unit and tilt at an angle in order for the cap to screw in? Or do I need to cut the funnel and install a piece of flexible hose in the center to provide flexibility to the funnel tube?

I attached a picture of the ABS unit. The picture is taken from the direction of the left side rear looking forward.

Thank You
TOM G.
 

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Yep install a short piece of clear hose and all is well. John schooled me on that. It is not to bad of a job, and once through it the second should be a charm.

I need to get after the ABS unit for the rear and see if I can get a stiffer rear pedal and check both ABS pots before my trip coming up to the Adirondack's early/mid June.

Also unplugging the big electronic connection gives more room.

I went to Advance Auto as the tools are craftsman and guaranteed as such. However not when you are going to put it in a vise and bend it. But at least it is relatively inexpensive, quality tool to start. Mine bent no issues other then stretching the coating at the bend a bit. It is easier to manipulate as you don't get, or NEED a lot of turn on the ABS ports, so go easy on them.

With all the reading you have done and help on this forum, you will be fine.
 

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tom39 said:
Well life got in the way of flushing the ABS system since my last post.
Anyway, I have the time and it is raining so I thought that I would try and tackle the job today. I have the Tupperware off the left side exposing the ABS unit. I have the funnel and DOT4 fluid. But I have a few more questions.
1. Which reservoir is for the front and which is the rear? Looking down at the unit facing the front, which reservoir is the left and which is the right?
The Front is the taller one . look at the Addendum file for the brake flush & it shows it marked as #1.
2. The frame rail of the bike is in the way and will not allow the funnel to be screwed into the reservoir on the front right. How is this obstacle overcome? Do you have to loosen the ABS unit and tilt at an angle in order for the cap to screw in? Or do I need to cut the funnel and install a piece of flexible hose in the center to provide flexibility to the funnel tube?
As mentioned below, cut the funnel stem approx 1" from bottom & use a piece of tube to allow for the funnel to be offset.
Also remove the ABS electrical plug as per instruction in 'Brake Flush'


I attached a picture of the ABS unit. The picture is taken from the direction of the left side rear looking forward.

Thank You
TOM G.
 

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Tom - looking from your back to the front of the bike, the rear wheel circuits are on your left and the front are on the right. The long bleeder screws will bleed your control circuit(line between your brake handles and the abs unit) the reservoirs will bleed the wheel circuit(abs unit to the calipers). Leave your ignition off bleeding the control circuits and turn your ignition on for the wheel circuits(so your servo pump will work).

The funnel fits, I had too work on it a while to squezze it in at a little angle, but it worked.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the info. Everything going well. I was skeptical that the condition of the fluid would be noticeable but after bleeding the control circuit I am a believer. My LT only has 2700mi on it but the fluid in the control circuit was a clearly a darker brown. Simply amazing.

Sorry for all the questions but I have a few more if you could be so kind.

What is the purpose for removing the calipers and making these wooden block inserts? Can't you just bleed the caliper with it attached?

Do I need to bleed both bleeders on the rear caliper?

Thanks Again
TOM G.
 

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the wooden blocks keep your caliper pistons pushed all the way back into the caliper and reduces the amount of fluid that has to be flushed.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OH, OK. That makes sense. So basically pushing out as much old fluid trapped in the caliper as possible.
I went and made the blocks. I actually used a plastic cutting board and ran it thru my planner for the right thickness. Worked quite well.
I finished both control circuits and flushed the rear wheel circuit. Wow the difference in the fluid color!
On a funny note. After I bolted the rear caliper back on I topped off the fluid and did a quick check on the brake response. Much to my surprise I had no brakes. :confused: The look of terror on my face must have been horrific because my wife looked at me and gasped. Then I remembered that I had not pumped the pad against the rotor. :eek: Let me tell you when the wheel kept spinning when the pedal was pushed, I got this sicking feeling in my gut like I was going to puke. :( :confused:

Thank for the help
TOM G.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
JOB IS DONE!! :D

10X easier than I had expected thanks to everyone's help.

Thank You All Very Much
TOM G.
 
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