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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alternator & Brake Failure Light on /battery voltage NOT increasing while running ie. Not Charging

Troubleshooting help needed, please.

Battery/Alternator light won't go out at idle nor increased RPMs. Also Battery Failure light on as well.
2002 BMW K1200LT *new* fully charged Odyssey battery PC-680
TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKLIST PLEASE?

Changes? Bike has "sat" for ~8yrs. Sometimes outside albeit covered. Have spent the past month or so ressurrecting it to get back on the road. I put in a new fuel pump/filter so you know what was removed. Many "tests" in garage to make sure eveything is A-OK before the final button-up or Test Ride before body panels back on. 72 hrs ago I put the Stingray back on and made sure all connectors were cleaned and Di-electric greased. Front right speaker is inop. but I wasn't going to get involved with more disassembly to figure out why.

FIRST and subsequent starts with Stingray back on and buttoned up, wires zip-tied etc. Fires up fine. Goes to Idle immediately. ALTERNATOR and BRAKE FAILURE LIGHTS ON!!! 13Volts at new battery - Increasing RPMs does not increase voltage and it is decreasing down to `12.0 Volts before shut her down for my troubleshoot. Cleaned and sanded ALL battery connections and all fuses are fine.

This dash-light issue popped up a couple of weeks ago during garage running/idling inadvertently had Battery Tender hooked up when started the bike and continued running for a while... Disconnected Tender issue remained.
Next day... Light went out.. Issue ?solved?
Until this a.m.'s planned test ride "around block" and then to Chevron.

Blown fuse to Fried alternator/voltage regulator comes to mind? I have a dig. electrical tester...
I can't imagine starting a fully charged NEW battery inadvertently directly hooked up to a Battery Tender could "take out" the alternator/voltage regulator?

Thanks for your help!

TERRY EVANS - Miami 31,000 orig miles orig owner - resurrecting bike which has been "sitting" for 8+ years
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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14,553 Posts
Check the little blue wire with the push on connector on the side of the alternator. It is the exciter wire and if it is loose or corroded a "no charge" condition will exist. It is hard to get to but a small stick can wiggle it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply JOHN ZEILER!

So this a.m. I was able to get a long needlenose pliers to be able to remove that blue wire connection. Spayed the area with contact/brake cleaner and was able to reinsert it.
NO CHANGE at startup with increasing RPMs. Off to work now - PLAN for tonight?
- Remove battery tray to allow for better access (anything else?)
- Remove and clean all accessible Alternator connections
I don't believe I will be able to get to Voltage regulator w/o tank-OFF again, ugh!!
- perhaps do a best with accessibility wire trace to look for shorts as I have evidence of "Critter" homesteading: snail and peanut shells!!!

Any other suggestions?

Thanks again,

TERRY-Miami 2002 K1200LY 33K miles
 

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Just a thought, are all the wires attached to the battery? Mine has 5 on each terminal,... but with the sidecar & other things.. it has a lot more that stock. Maybe a ground wire is not connected :wave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just a thought, are all the wires attached to the battery? Mine has 5 on each terminal,... but with the sidecar & other things.. it has a lot more that stock. Maybe a ground wire is not connected :wave
Thanks PATRIC!

Just got home from work, changed clothes into "garage attire" then saw your post.
The Blue wire removal and reinsert didn't work. So my tonight's plan is to ;
1 - give a looong thick screwdriver WACK! with mallet to the Alternator. Give startup.
.. if no go or Alt light still on...
2 - repeat with perhaps BIGGER WACK while it's running. BTW, funny faint FAST ticking clock sound from Alt. area while running. Dunno if that's always been there or I'm NOW more sensitive to this affected area?
We'll see if the WACKs change the pitch.
3 - Battery out; battery tray out for more access to alternator. Disconnect and thouroughly clean and sand connections and see if there's ANY "critter" involvement to the wires?
Other than that... it's probably this w/e with the ugh, Stingray back OFF; seat Off; tank-OFF.
Does the shock need to come out for full access to the Alternator?
Thanks folx,
I'll let'cha Know!!!

TERRY optimistic in Miami :-D
 

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Wrencher Extraordinaire
2005 K1200LT
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Does the shock need to come out for full access to the Alternator?
Thanks folx,
I'll let'cha Know!!!

TERRY optimistic in Miami :-D
Actually you have to remove the swing arm, exhaust and cross member and drop the engine/transmission assembly to remove the entire alternator. You may be able to remove the regulator but I think the cover needs to come off. I'll check my spare unit tonight when I get home.
 

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Are there some brushes in the alternator that can be replaced. I remember doing that on my '85 K100RT once or twice. I don't recall ever seeing that on this site...
 
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