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Discussion Starter #1
Thought I'd post this for anyone using the Harbor Freight tire changer and "type 2" Mojo blocks.

I bought the HF tire changer about a month ago.
The jaws on the clamps are Mojo block's "type 2".
After purchasing and installing the Mojo blocks, I saw the need for some marring protection improvement.
Found these furniture tips at Lowes.
Cut the top edge that butts up to the Mojo block and they fit perfectly.





Regards, Ken
 
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Neat find. Mojo blocks look pretty good but before they were available here is what I made. Also modified the bead breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice..
Wish I had CNC access (assuming that's what you used).

Like how yours covers the top also.

I've only changed one tire so far and was careful not to have the wheel contact the metal.

Need some pieces that will cover the top to protect the metal behind the mojo block.

Thinking a thick plastic chopping block, and my table saw might do the trick.

Should be able to fabricate some pieces like yours for the foot on the bead breaker with the same material.
Good idea, thanks.

Sent Mitch (Mojo) a heads up on my find. Maybe he will pass it on to future customers.

Ken
 

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Neat ideas from both of you - thanks for posting!
 

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No CNC just a little time on the weekend on a mill with a turntable. I just sort of eyeballed the shape but had the foot with me for a test fit. I did not quite get the radius right and still use some sheet rubber to keep the rim from slipping.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
CNC, milling machine & lathe... To dream..

So I changed my second tire with this equipment last night.
First was the rear on my R1.
Did the rear on the LT last night.
Both went very well.

Found I needed a couple more mods for the LT wheel.

The lug nut holes in the wheel are about 13mm (1/2").
The center post that comes with the HF Motorcycle Tire Changer Attachment is about 1". Much too large.
I just happened to have a 1/2 copper ground rod, 30" in length, to use as a new center post.

Went back to Lowes for some parts to make it work.

(see pics below)
The spacers are needed to take up the slop on the smaller center post.
After the beads are broke and the wheel is mounted on the stand, I used a couple quick clamps squeeze the tire. Makes it easier to install the mojo bar and makes the first pry over much easier.
Until I fabricate some block's like JZ's, I used the plastic off an anti-freeze jug to prevent rim marring.











 

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Discussion Starter #8
And the finished product.

Cleaned all the rubber residue off the lip of the wheel with MEK.
The build-up was relatively thick in some spots.
55K on the bike, who know how many tires it's been through.

Using the Parnes balancer, I found the light spot of the wheel.
Mounted the red dot on the new tire opposite that spot.
Only needed 2ea. 1/4oz. weights for a perfect balance.

Very satisfying to be able to do this and know it's done correctly.

Ken



 

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One thing I have found that helps is to slip some PVC and other tubing (concentrically) onto that center post to make the OD at the lever point as large as possible. Gives a greater mechanical advantage to the bar.
 

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Mojo blocks....

Hmm... I've been meaning to buy those... thanks 4 the reminder...

John,
Nice job on the breaker..


another tip,

I removed the upper bar that holds the center rod...

I find it completely unnecessary.

With it gone I can now rotate the mounting bar 360 without bumping into it.

works for me. :cool:
 
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