You still have normal brakes...Why not just take out the ABS lights and ride with normal brakesa stuck piston did not happen to be my issue. The piston seal was bad and leaking fluid into/inside the the unit instead of applying pressure to the wheel cylinders. From what I understand there is no seal kit available. What as done in the rebuild (by Module Masters) was to install a set of used seals. After an $800 repair bill from the dealer to diagnose/remove/reinstall my abs unit I was not able to put another 200 miles on the bike before the abs wig wag lights come on again. Module Masters did offer to try the repair again, but, would not provide the warrantee any more. They told me mine was the first time they saw this. They also offered to refund the rebuild price, which I ended up doing. After purchasing another unit (used) and another $400 labor charge, that unit was also bad. At the current trade in value of $2500 for a fully functional bike, to which my dealer stated he would not take a k1200lt regardless of condition (because of warrantee issues) I am left with 2 choices. Part the bike out with 18k miles, or bypass/remove the abs unit. Does anyone know of a brake line union to connect the two different size male fittings after disconnecting the lines from the controller? This seams like it would be the easiest way to bypass the unit. Maybe someone has dimensions/sizes of custom lines from the master to the wheel cylinders? Again the bike is a 2000.
Yea Dave, I hear you. I did the tape also between resets (2 pieces because I ride to work at 4am, always dark).My wig-wag has been flashing for 3 years now on my 2000 LT. I put electrical tape over the 2 lights & can only see a little bit of light at night blinking.
I'm thinking the exact same thing. My question is, if I'm running brake fluid directly from the reservoirs to the calipers, do I still have safe braking? Or is it akin to the dreaded residual braking?Yea Dave, I hear you. I did the tape also between resets (2 pieces because I ride to work at 4am, always dark).
I think with the right adapters, the pump could be completely removed and brake lines could be routed directly to the calibers front and rear.
In your case the unit must be bypassed if you want full braking. There is not enough residual when the servos crap out.I'm thinking the exact same thing. My question is, if I'm running brake fluid directly from the reservoirs to the calipers, do I still have safe braking? Or is it akin to the dreaded residual braking?
If squeezing tighter (or stomping harder) on the brakes will still haul the big girl down from speed, then I'm not worried at all about an ABS/Servo failure (well, except for the trip I'm on at the time, of course). If that isn't the case, then I'll need to invest in a spare pump, and pronto!