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Discussion Starter #1
So I replaced brake lines and bled system at least 4 times but GS-911 still is not satisfied with the bleed test. The rear MC line was done first and was the most difficult as the new steel lines are not as pliable as the old lines to get at the MC behind the foot plate, but its on there.

I have good pressure on both front and rear but still does not pass the GS-911 test. Wondering if I should resort to pushing the fluid up from the nipples?

I’ve read where others have had similar issues so would be interested to know how you were able to clear any remaining bubbles that aired obviously still in the system.
 

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Did you remember to set the lever at the full outward position? Are you standing on the brake pedal to keep it in the green? Some are just more stubborn than others. I have done several and the last one I did took forever to get it to pass the bleed test. Often it is a matter of letting the bubbles migrate to a high point and bleeding one more time. Really let is sit for a few days and try again.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
THANKS John, I never touched the brake lever so not sure how it would get out of adjustment but if you mean to just make sure it is set to furthest position, I will try that. Would that also be the case at the foot peddle adjustment? Rear brake reads more pressure but still no green.
 

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So I replaced brake lines and bled system at least 4 times but GS-911 still is not satisfied with the bleed test. The rear MC line was done first and was the most difficult as the new steel lines are not as pliable as the old lines to get at the MC behind the foot plate, but its on there.

I have good pressure on both front and rear but still does not pass the GS-911 test. Wondering if I should resort to pushing the fluid up from the nipples?

I’ve read where others have had similar issues so would be interested to know how you were able to clear any remaining bubbles that aired obviously still in the system.
I had the same problem when I did my Spiegler installation. I let mine sit a couple of days, and bled it again and it finally passed. At least I think it passed before I rode it, but I may have even ridden it a few miles before it passed. And my clutch was also spongy for the first few rides after I had it apart. I think it takes time for the small bubbles to migrate upwards and I think vibration from riding really helps in that regard, assuming the brakes work well enough to allow safe riding. Even a few trips around the block might work wonders. Vibration is great when it comes to dislodging bubbles.
 

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THANKS John, I never touched the brake lever so not sure how it would get out of adjustment but if you mean to just make sure it is set to furthest position, I will try that. Would that also be the case at the foot peddle adjustment? Rear brake reads more pressure but still no green.
I normally have my brake lever set at position 3, but when I recently flushed my brakes (no bleeding as air was never let into the system), my brakes would not pass the bleed test even with the lever against the throttle grip. I think the grip puppies also don’t help. I set the lever all the way out (I believe this is position 4) and I was then able to get the test to pass. I don’t know how much pressure the bleed test wants to see, but it must be a lot as I have to squeeze the lever with both hands to pass the test.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had the same problem when I did my Spiegler installation. I let mine sit a couple of days, and bled it again and it finally passed. At least I think it passed before I rode it, but I may have even ridden it a few miles before it passed. And my clutch was also spongy for the first few rides after I had it apart. I think it takes time for the small bubbles to migrate upwards and I think vibration from riding really helps in that regard, assuming the brakes work well enough to allow safe riding. Even a few trips around the block might work wonders. Vibration is great when it comes to dislodging bubbles.
Good to know. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I normally have my brake lever set at position 3, but when I recently flushed my brakes (no bleeding as air was never let into the system), my brakes would not pass the bleed test even with the lever against the throttle grip. I think the grip puppies also don’t help. I set the lever all the way out (I believe this is position 4) and I was then able to get the test to pass. I don’t know how much pressure the bleed test wants to see, but it must be a lot as I have to squeeze the lever with both hands to pass the test.
I’ll try this as everything else about the brakes seem normal.

Had to check tonight and saw it was at 4 or the furthest position already.
 

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THANKS John, I never touched the brake lever so not sure how it would get out of adjustment but if you mean to just make sure it is set to furthest position, I will try that. Would that also be the case at the foot peddle adjustment? Rear brake reads more pressure but still no green.
The GS-911 states to set the lever at its furthest point (4) for the test. I normally run mine at 1. There is no adjustment for the rear pedal other than to ensure that there is play on the piston rod (this allows it to fully return).

I have to really stand on the pedal and pull the lever with both hands for the test.
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Thought I’d post an update to say test passed as expertly indicated! So how important this forum is for us in that it allows us to maintain our bikes, not to mention our sanity!

Thanks again for all that replied!!
 
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