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Discussion Starter #1
My throttle side heated grip quit working towards the end of last winter. In preparation for my rally ride I wanted to get it fixed.

As usual with the LT one has to remove the tupperware to commence any repair job, Ugh!

To avoid the unavoidable I thought I'd check the grip portion to see if there was a broken wire or wear spot under the grip. Since this is the moving part I theorized this where the problem would be. Using the techniques mentioned on the site I carefully cut off the grip.

Visual inspection of the grip showed no cuts, burns or arching. I was now forced to remove the @#&%$#@!!! commence around the tank and triple tree.

I located the heating element wires exit hole at the center of the handlebars and followed them to a white plastic wire loom holder at about 9 o'clock and slightly below the triple tree.(see photos). The leads made a 180 degree reversal through the plastic holder.

I removed the right lead and disconnected it from its female counterpart. With my short tester I discovered I had power to the connector. I next use my connector to check continuity along the rest of the lead to the heating element. I had none!

I gently pulled enough power lead from the end of the handle bar to allow me to scrape off insulation from the elements wire to check continuity, I had continuity. So I knew I had a bad wire assembly.

To more carefully examine the power lead I set about to remove the power lead.
The Clymer's manual states to remove the wires from the connector assembly, easy enough said, I COULD NOT get them out! I pried, pulled, heated cursed but they would not come out! I finally cut them off, attached a small wire follower and gently pulled the lead out of the handlebar. CAUTION!! do not pull the follower all the way out, tie off the
tail end to the triple tree to prevent more headaches.

Once removed I found a small depression in the power lead where it previously passed through the white plastic loom holder. I exposed the wires to discover the brown (ground) wire had faulted from heat and pressure where it had made its 180 turn through the plastic loom holder.. I cut out the bad section, about 4-5 inches and re-installed the lead into the handlebar.

Since I could not get the wires out of the connector I now had to think of a way to reconnect to the elements power source.

In retrospect, I should have cut the wires further from the OEM connector to allow me to splice them back together with a parallel splicer. Since I did not, I had to make other arrangements.

For under $3.00 I found a 2-pin connector at Radio Shack. I hated to do it but this forced me to cut of the other end of the OEM connector, OUCH. I pinched and soldered the connections and joined the together and YOILA!! it worked (See photo).

Finally, I re-routed and wire tied the element leads in a way to eliminate further problems.

I know this is long winded and not a perfect repair but it saved me at least $150.00, the price of a new element assembly from BMW.

I re-assembled the bar covers, spent another $4.00 on black tennis grip tape and was finished


Bill
 

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Good job, Bill. I've made considerable wiring repairs and connector replacements when dealing with a partially melted wiring harness. The Radio Shack connector conducts 12 volts just as well as the proprietary Amphenol connector does. It just takes up a little more room, that's all.

Dave
 

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Good find and GREAT improvising!
 

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I use the same Rodeo Shack connector often. It is polarized (keyed) reasonably priced, carries a fair amount of current (12A?, 15A?), and readily available. AND THEY NO LONGER ASK YOU FOR YOUR PHONE NUMBER!!!

A win win!

BTW, I always cut those goofy tabs off that stick out on the ends. Just a quick paring with a one sided razor blade or an exacto knife and it's done. I believe the tabs are made to secure the connector in a panel mount. Much more streamlined.

Loren
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the comments, I'll trim the tabs before final assembly.

The screw, is for the triple tree plastic cover.

Thanks to all.
 

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From and older post -

Thanks Bill, I found this via your message and a search ....

Might be a help if I need to remove the grip and look for a pinched wire. Good pictures and explanation.
 

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"Clarks BMX 83" bicycle grips make great replacements after you cut off the old grips. About $10.00 a pair at your local bicycle shop. Just spray some Windex into the grip and on the heat coils on the motorcycle and slide them on. The BMX grips are 130mm long, so they fit perfect. This is a simple, inexpensive way to replace worn or melted grips.
 
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