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I am scheduled for the 6000 mile service this weekend and have read numerous opinions about synthetics and when to start. So "for fun" I am looking for a semi-collective opinion about which fluids to change and what to use for the 6000 mile. Fire away and thanks in advance.
 

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All depends upon the break in.

If you are not using any oil I'd go for the synthetic (This means the rings are seated well). If you are using a little oil stick with the Dino until the rings seat themselves. JMOO :dance:
 

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Next oil change, I'm going with Amsoil 20w50 engine oil; the previous owner gave me a case of BMW dino and didn't want to waste it. Trans and FD are already Amsoil.
 

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If you are in warranty ask your servicing shop, and don't argue with them.

Mine knows I want to use Synth and told me we will look at it at the 12,000.

I trust them so I will go along with them as I have said before, in a warranty situation, they are your ONLY advocate with BMW. I am don't want to be hanging out for anything by not following my Service Managers advice.

I ran Nikasil barrels (sp) on my Harley and at 2000 miles I had Synth in it. I also heat cycled the motor and seated the rings pretty aggressively. At 2000 miles compression was right where it should be for the cam, heads, and deck height. Leak down was within 2 of each jug.

So Brian is correct that as soon as rings are seated you can run Synth.

Now flavors of Synth will just cause everyones PMS to flair but I like Amsoil, or Mobil 1. I have used Royal Purple, Red Line also.

I was using a Synth 75-90 in the FD, but I will go to 80-90 after reading a bit more on it, but have huge doubts that it matters one bit between the two.

In the trany I use 90-140 Synth.

after the 600 I changed at 3000, and will change it at 9000 also. I used good old Castrol GTX 10-40 because it was Fall here in PA. I am due for my 6000 and will get BMW oil from my shop. At 9000 I will do it again and use 20-50 Castrol GTX as it will be summer. Good Dino oil is cheap and 3000 miles on it is enough by my opinion.

The cool thing is my shop don't care if I carry my own oil in because of what I prefer. So I take a quart of each Synth for the FD and tranny and they don't mind a bit. When he says I can go Synth I will carry four quarts of that also.

He gets labor, I buy the filter and crush washers for my in between changes from him, and usually find something else I want, or need to buy to support him.

Just the way I look at maintenance, and my shop.

Sorry so long :rolleyes:
 

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Consider Shell Rotella 5W40 Synthetic. Available at most WalMart's in a one gallon container for 'bout $18 bones.
 

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Go to Wally World or Autozone and get a good oil that meets all of the specs in your manual. That goes for oil, lube, coolant..........the whole works.
 

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I would wait until at least 12k to switch to synthetic.
 

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I use Lucas oils exclusively in the LT, the Ram and the Buick. They cost a little more and can be hard to find, but I've yet to have a lube related problem in twenty years. Saw a demonstration in a truck stop many years ago which really impressed me and have had several million mile diesels since.

Check them out, I don't work there or own any stock.

http://www.lucasoil.com/index.sd
 

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My BMW dealer here LoneStar BMW said not to switch to Synthetic oil till 18,000 mile This allows for proper beak in
 

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BMW North America told me I could switch to synthetic after 6,000 miles.

Amsoil told me I could switch to synthetic immediately.

I switched to BMW or Mobil 1 synthetic motorcycle oils on my 2000 K1200LT at 6,000 miles and enjoyed that bike for 137,000 miles.

I switched to Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oils on my 2006 K1200LT at 600 miles. I currently have 27,000 miles.

Neither consume oil. Both run better on synthetic than conventional oils. No problems.

No reason to wait. I'm glad I didn't.
 

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Oil

BruceHarrisJr said:
Consider Shell Rotella 5W40 Synthetic. Available at most WalMart's in a one gallon container for 'bout $18 bones.
That is not the correct viscosity for the LT motor. Nowhere in the manual does it recommend 5-40.
 

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katnapinn said:
My BMW dealer here LoneStar BMW said not to switch to Synthetic oil till 18,000 mile This allows for proper beak in
Steve,

We all keep hearing this. I wonder why they can ship Corvettes, Porsches, and I believe some of the new Bimmers with synthetic as the factory fill.
It think it's a throw back to "old" break-in ideas ("use non-detergent oils to achieve proper break-in your airplane engine", etc.)

FWIW I jumped the gun and switched both my RT and current LT to synthetic at the 6,000 mile mark. Never added to either bike between changes.

Good luck,

Bruce
 

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Man... I LOVE these "Oil Advice Threads"! :histerica

Seriously... Should I go synthetic? Oh yeah, I did at 18k.
 

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beartooth said:
Steve,

We all keep hearing this. I wonder why they can ship Corvettes, Porsches, and I believe some of the new Bimmers with synthetic as the factory fill.
It think it's a throw back to "old" break-in ideas ("use non-detergent oils to achieve proper break-in your airplane engine", etc.)

FWIW I jumped the gun and switched both my RT and current LT to synthetic at the 6,000 mile mark. Never added to either bike between changes.

Good luck,

Bruce
Be interesting to know if those 'other' cages have Nikasil lined cylinders. From what I've read and heard, that is the primary reason for running the break-in period on the LT - Nikasil takes several extended mileage runs of various speed/heat/cool/pressure changes to seat the piston rings properly against the Nikasil surfaces. I'm no engineer, butt on plenty of occasions, I've listened to those who are; to mechanics with ample experience; and read several white papers on the subject - I'm figgerin' they're smarter in that aspect of wrenching than I am, so that's (wuz) good enough for me and ole Toad. We took that advice and waited until the 18K service to change to synth. YMMV.
 

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This engine uses Nikasil - Chevrolet LT5 engine, designed by Lotus and used exclusively in the Corvette ZR-1 (Uses synthetic Mobil 1 right from the factory).
 

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Dick said:
Be interesting to know if those 'other' cages have Nikasil lined cylinders. From what I've read and heard, that is the primary reason for running the break-in period on the LT - Nikasil takes several extended mileage runs of various speed/heat/cool/pressure changes to seat the piston rings properly against the Nikasil surfaces. I'm no engineer, butt on plenty of occasions, I've listened to those who are; to mechanics with ample experience; and read several white papers on the subject - I'm figgerin' they're smarter in that aspect of wrenching than I am, so that's (wuz) good enough for me and ole Toad. We took that advice and waited until the 18K service to change to synth. YMMV.
Great point on the cylinder type.

My Nikasil Harley heat cycled 6 times, working up to 15 minuet run time, cooling between each one until totally cold, before it ever saw a mile.

I do think it is the safety margin because of the Nikasil. I don't think one can say rings are seated at any specific time without compression tests. So I think Dealers play it safe. Personally I think my rings are seated as I have rode a lot of slab and I have played in the upper RPM a bunch, and no oil use.

I hear the 12 and 18,000 mentioned the most on this Forum as dealer recommendation.
 

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Both local dealers here in Denver recommended not to switch to Syn until 18K. I followed their advice. I don't see what the rush is. Dino oil is cheap and BMW gives you 6K change intervals.

Now I use amsoil..
 

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HarvRead said:
That is not the correct viscosity for the LT motor. Nowhere in the manual does it recommend 5-40.

Could be, but a www.CAT.com oil analysis report performed on a regular basis will show you nothing but good results. It's all I've used on, lemme see; 1998 R1100RT, 2000 K1200LT, 2001 R1150GS, 2002 R1150RT, 2005 K1200LT, 2006 Honda GL-1800A, and currently my 1995 Harley-Davidson FLHTCUI. Happy motorin'!
 
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