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Should I pull the cover?

  • yes!

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  • no!

    Votes: 7 29.2%
  • Purple is the fastest colour!

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Discussion Starter #1
I'm working on the 36k mile service...Got all the tupperwear off, going to hit the easy stuff next (Oil change) and the Brake flush when the speedbleeders come in late this week.

So...in your humble opinion, would you pull the non-leaking valve cover and check the valve clearance or not?
 

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Rocketsled said:
I'm working on the 36k mile service...Got all the tupperwear off, going to hit the easy stuff next (Oil change) and the Brake flush when the speedbleeders come in late this week.

So...in your humble opinion, would you pull the non-leaking valve cover and check the valve clearance or not?
I would, just to give me a base line for future records. Then you'll know what you might be facing at your next check.

If you find any tight clearances, you'll need access to a bucket or two, so make arrangements to source those before you start. You won't know a bucket number 'til you've checked with a feeler gauge, butt at least you'll know how soon you can obtain replacements, and where. Good luck - have fun!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Dick said:
I would, just to give me a base line for future records. Then you'll know what you might be facing at your next check.

If you find any tight clearances, you'll need access to a bucket or two, so make arrangements to source those before you start. You won't know a bucket number 'til you've checked with a feeler gauge, butt at least you'll know how soon you can obtain replacements, and where. Good luck - have fun!!
I figure it'll be down for at least a week. I've got all the stuff off that's necessary for the service, but I wanna take the weekend to do the brakes...that's not something I wanna rush through.

I've done the airfilter and plugs tonight. Dunno if I'll get to the oil.
 

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Dick said:
I would, just to give me a base line for future records. Then you'll know what you might be facing at your next check.

If you find any tight clearances, you'll need access to a bucket or two, so make arrangements to source those before you start. You won't know a bucket number 'til you've checked with a feeler gauge, butt at least you'll know how soon you can obtain replacements, and where. Good luck - have fun!!
WARNING: THREAD HIJACK

Missed you at the Pie Fest this past Saturday, Dick!

We now return you to your original thread, already in progress.
 

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Did you have a valve check yet? How close were they?
after my first valve check and adjustment at 12k, I didn't need another adjustment until after 60K.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
mwnahas said:
Did you have a valve check yet? How close were they?
after my first valve check and adjustment at 12k, I didn't need another adjustment until after 60K.
Nope, got the oil drained, the filter filled and sealed back up then decided to call it a night. In retrospect, NOW is the time to check the valves, so I'll probably do that this evening.
 

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Absolutely, it takes less then 5 minutes to check the valves. Follow the firing order for less revolutions 1-3-4-2

My VC popped off and the gasket remained stuck to the cylinder head, all the way around. There was no need to remove it or reseal it. cleaned the top sealing surface and the VC and reinstalled - no leaks.
I don't pull plugs or look for TDC, just look at the lobes. When at TDC for the cylinder you're checking the lobes will be tilted in toward each other equally. Once the intake valves close for the cylinder you're checking you're getting close to where you need to be.
I don't put each lobe 180 from the bucket, no need to, the cam grind doesn't vary between 180 and the cam position when the piston is at TDC.

I just use the go no go method, min spec slides in easily, max spec doesn't, done.
I don't bother with the exact clearance until it falls out of the spec range. If it's in spec it's in spec.
 

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I would absolutely check them as well. It's a very simple job and if they've not been checked yet, quite possible you'll need to replace some buckets to bring everything into spec.
 

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Dick said:
I would, just to give me a base line for future records. Then you'll know what you might be facing at your next check.

If you find any tight clearances, you'll need access to a bucket or two, so make arrangements to source those before you start. You won't know a bucket number 'til you've checked with a feeler gauge, butt at least you'll know how soon you can obtain replacements, and where. Good luck - have fun!!
Are all original buckets same size?
If not, how can you tell what size you need without removing one.

For example, if a clearance is 0.1 and should be 0.25 I should get a bucket that is 0.15 shorter, but shorter from what size?

BJ
 

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bjedruszczak said:
Are all original buckets same size?
If not, how can you tell what size you need without removing one.

For example, if a clearance is 0.1 and should be 0.25 I should get a bucket that is 0.15 shorter, but shorter from what size?

BJ
Nope - not all factory installed buckets are the same. You won't know what size you have on any specific bucket until you remove it and read the factor etched inside. The reason you would pull it is because your feeler gauge showed the installed bucket is now too tight. Pulling the bucket and calculating the replacement size will tell you what new bucket is needed to bring that particular valve into specs.

What I meant by 'sourcing' buckets - is to find where you can quickly obtain a needed replacement before you begin checking the clearances so that you don't waste time searching *after* you've removed a bucket. You may have to wait a bit once you've determined that you need a replacement, but if you find a source for buckets before you start the work, you'll know where to quickly obtain it.
 

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I remember that Grif had a collection of buckets that he traded about as needed.

Maybe we should start a bucket thread where people could list what sizes they had available. Could update and maintain it like we do with RTE lists... Anyone who changes it does copy/paste of the list, with the new version showing the updates. hmmmmm
 

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Rocketsled said:
I'm working on the 36k mile service...Got all the tupperwear off, going to hit the easy stuff next (Oil change) and the Brake flush when the speedbleeders come in late this week.

So...in your humble opinion, would you pull the non-leaking valve cover and check the valve clearance or not?
Sure, go check them... But after reading Razmataz's Post personally, I'm not sure I'll be in any hurry to pull the cams and "do the nasty". How bad can it get if one never adjusts the valves on an LT? With a shim under bucket design, they will just get looser over time, right?
 

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Beemerick said:
Sure, go check them... But after reading Razmataz's Post personally, I'm not sure I'll be in any hurry to pull the cams and "do the nasty". How bad can it get if one never adjusts the valves on an LT? With a shim under bucket design, they will just get looser over time, right?
Nope, they ALWAYS get tighter. After reading Razmataz's post, I am going to be more careful.

Dan
 

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Beemerick said:
Sure, go check them... But after reading Razmataz's Post personally, I'm not sure I'll be in any hurry to pull the cams and "do the nasty". How bad can it get if one never adjusts the valves on an LT? With a shim under bucket design, they will just get looser over time, right?
The LT valves wear tighter, because the main wear surfaces are the valve face and seats, so the valve sinks deeper into the head, decreasing the clearance between the lifter and cam.

If you ever get valves wearing LOOSER, you have a far more expensive problem, as this means cam lobes, or cam bearing caps wearing. That is a pretty big, expensive fix. New cams, or line boring the head, or replacing the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So here we are:

Intake
Range: .006 - .008
Code:
.006 O O .005 | .005 O O .007 | .006 O O .005 | .006 O O .006
Exhaust
Range: .010 - .012
Code:
.010 O O .010 | .011 O O .010 | .011 O O .010 | .010 O O .010
So three of the intakes are borderline tight...I think I'll check it again in another 6000 miles or so.
 

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dshealey said:
The LT valves wear tighter, because the main wear surfaces are the valve face and seats, so the valve sinks deeper into the head, decreasing the clearance between the lifter and cam.
Right... wear on the valve face and seats... I knew that... :eek:
Guess I've got some overdue valve checking to do. Darn it.
 

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Rocketsled said:
So here we are:

Intake
Range: .006 - .008
Code:
.006 O O .005 | .005 O O .007 | .006 O O .005 | .006 O O .006
Exhaust
Range: .010 - .012
Code:
.010 O O .010 | .011 O O .010 | .011 O O .010 | .010 O O .010
So three of the intakes are borderline tight...I think I'll check it again in another 6000 miles or so.
Mmmm...it would appear you have three intakes that are out of spec and four that are borderline. It is typically the intake valves that are out of spec. When I checked mine at the 24K I had three out of spec and three that were borderline. Since I needed to pull the cams anyway, I went ahead and brought all six well into the spec. My exhaust valves were all within spec.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The problem, as I see it, is a _thousandth_ is _tiny_, there might as well be that kind of variation in my tools and the weather. Being one throusandth out of spec at this point won't be the difference between run and BOOM in the next 6000 miles, I can then act as necesssary.

(dim memories of error bars and significant figures roust themselves up out of my head, 15 years out of College)

ETA: To put a more fine point on it: I have a hard time _just_ taking a thousandth of a piece of metal on my South Bend lathe. It takes a little skill and some emery paper, rather than actually using a cutting tool.
 

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And yes. Purple IS the fastest color!

I have 31k on mine and at the 30K check I have one that is getting snug.

Loren
 

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Alright Loren! I was wondering when you would respond to a poll that was tailored to you!

As far as the tight valves go, no the Bike is not goig to blow up in a few thousand miles due to them. But as long as you are in there it is a great time to not only adjust the tight ones, but take the opportunity to document what size buckets are installed! In the future if you need to adjust one you will be able to figure out what size bucket you need even before you pull the cams.

I am attaching a pdf of the Valve Check Sheet which is available from the site here. Make a few copies and keep them around for future use and adjustments.

John


wa1200lt said:
And yes. Purple IS the fastest color!

I have 31k on mine and at the 30K check I have one that is getting snug.

Loren
 

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